Clay barred and waxed
04-24-2009, 06:13 AM
#21
That turned out great. If you wanted to get rid of all the factory orange peel you could wet sand the car with 1500 then buff with Extra Cut Compound on a very low speed to prevent burning. The results would be glass smooth. New vehicles are getting better and better but still have orange peel. You can see it the most in the hood picture where you are taknig a pic of yourself.
04-24-2009, 10:33 AM
#23
I dont know if there is a write up but if you just do as I said above you will be shocked with the results. Just get some wet sand paper and wet sand the car starting with one section at a time. As an example start with the fender. Then wet sand the fender with 1500 grit sandpaper. After that let it dry and buff it with extra cut compound by hand or with a buffer on very low setting. It will be as smooth as glass and its really the only way to get the ultimate finish.
Be aware, factory clearcoats are not very thick and cannont withstand a lot of wetsanding. Most of the protective chemicals in the clearcoat settle at the top, so even if you don't break through, you can still remove much of the stuff that protects your paint.
If you really want your car looking that good, have a professional do it, and expect to pay $1500-2000 for it. I STRONGLY recommend against you trying this yourself (OP) as this takes a lot of skill. Just pick up the Porter Cable and start crackin at it with some basic polishes. You will love the results.
04-24-2009, 03:55 PM
#25
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Hilliard, Ohio
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
04-24-2009, 03:57 PM
#26
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Hilliard, Ohio
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Um.... I would NOT recommend this. The OP doesn't have the experience necessary for that and could EASILY destroy his clearcoat. If you want to wetsand properly, use good paper like Meguiars Unigrit. Start with 1500 very lightly, follow with 2000, and finish with 2500. You will then need a heavy cut compound (like Megs 105) and a heavy cut wool pad on a rotary. Repeat with lighter cut pads and compounds, then to polishes. Finally an IPA wipedown or was and you're ready for wax/sealant.
Be aware, factory clearcoats are not very thick and cannont withstand a lot of wetsanding. Most of the protective chemicals in the clearcoat settle at the top, so even if you don't break through, you can still remove much of the stuff that protects your paint.
If you really want your car looking that good, have a professional do it, and expect to pay $1500-2000 for it. I STRONGLY recommend against you trying this yourself (OP) as this takes a lot of skill. Just pick up the Porter Cable and start crackin at it with some basic polishes. You will love the results.
Be aware, factory clearcoats are not very thick and cannont withstand a lot of wetsanding. Most of the protective chemicals in the clearcoat settle at the top, so even if you don't break through, you can still remove much of the stuff that protects your paint.
If you really want your car looking that good, have a professional do it, and expect to pay $1500-2000 for it. I STRONGLY recommend against you trying this yourself (OP) as this takes a lot of skill. Just pick up the Porter Cable and start crackin at it with some basic polishes. You will love the results.
im a little weary of taking sandpaper to my car for the exact reasons mentioned above. maybe after i have A LOT more experience
