Alum Polishing help
05-14-2009, 06:51 AM
#21
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the eastwoodcompany the eastwood company will have all your polishing needs they also have a forum with q&a other ppl work and you'll learn alot there and they really have ton's of polishing products.
05-19-2009, 06:47 AM
#22
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I'm getting some goodies from Eastwood today!!! What kind of polishing rag should I be using?? I used a Mirco fiber towel but it also scrached the alum. Maybe a diaper?
Bill
Bill
05-19-2009, 07:47 PM
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Hmm.. kinda odd that microfiber scratched the work.
I've always used the ones sold in bags of 10 or the roll of 3 at Autozone.
As a side note, the buffs I linked from Eastwood have to be broken in. It takes about 10-15 minutes and a little heat before they act right. They'll probably make already polished work look worse untill they're broken in, and you make a few passes to get everything right. Once a buff is broken in they last a long time. I did the entire engine in my sig with only 3 buffs, one tube of tripoli, and 1.5 small tubes of Simichrome. Countless sanding rolls/paper though.. And beer.
I've always used the ones sold in bags of 10 or the roll of 3 at Autozone.
As a side note, the buffs I linked from Eastwood have to be broken in. It takes about 10-15 minutes and a little heat before they act right. They'll probably make already polished work look worse untill they're broken in, and you make a few passes to get everything right. Once a buff is broken in they last a long time. I did the entire engine in my sig with only 3 buffs, one tube of tripoli, and 1.5 small tubes of Simichrome. Countless sanding rolls/paper though.. And beer.
05-20-2009, 07:17 AM
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Hmm.. kinda odd that microfiber scratched the work.
I've always used the ones sold in bags of 10 or the roll of 3 at Autozone.
As a side note, the buffs I linked from Eastwood have to be broken in. It takes about 10-15 minutes and a little heat before they act right. They'll probably make already polished work look worse untill they're broken in, and you make a few passes to get everything right. Once a buff is broken in they last a long time. I did the entire engine in my sig with only 3 buffs, one tube of tripoli, and 1.5 small tubes of Simichrome. Countless sanding rolls/paper though.. And beer.
I've always used the ones sold in bags of 10 or the roll of 3 at Autozone.
As a side note, the buffs I linked from Eastwood have to be broken in. It takes about 10-15 minutes and a little heat before they act right. They'll probably make already polished work look worse untill they're broken in, and you make a few passes to get everything right. Once a buff is broken in they last a long time. I did the entire engine in my sig with only 3 buffs, one tube of tripoli, and 1.5 small tubes of Simichrome. Countless sanding rolls/paper though.. And beer.
Again thanks for your help.....I'm moving in the right direction now
Bill
05-20-2009, 08:33 AM
#25
I did get the buffs last night and tried them.......I am impressed, the alum buffed nice and I used Mothers Alum polish. I did get a nice shine and it looks like all the scratches are gone. I am waiting on the Semichrome, should be here today (I hope).
Again thanks for your help.....I'm moving in the right direction now
Bill
Again thanks for your help.....I'm moving in the right direction now
Bill
If you are familiar with Big Dog motorcyles - it is the polish they use and recommend. It's good stuff.
05-26-2009, 09:24 AM
#29
Your craftmanship is out of this world. With that much work in it you should just have those pieces chromed and they will be perfect and basicaly maintance free. Since they are clean and already polished the prep work would be very little so you should be able to have it all done for $300-$500.
Make me a set and I will pay to have both sets done!!!!
Make me a set and I will pay to have both sets done!!!!
05-26-2009, 11:39 AM
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Your craftmanship is out of this world. With that much work in it you should just have those pieces chromed and they will be perfect and basicaly maintance free. Since they are clean and already polished the prep work would be very little so you should be able to have it all done for $300-$500.
Make me a set and I will pay to have both sets done!!!!
Make me a set and I will pay to have both sets done!!!!
I have all ready started on yours...........or not!
Bill
05-26-2009, 12:10 PM
#31
Yeah, I would say around $500...maybe a little more but it shouldnt be much. The MAJOR expense with having pieces chromed is the labor for prep work and being your parts are cleaned and polished already that part would be very minor. To give an expamle MBA pieces are cheap to have chromed because they are so easy to prep. I had a full set of caps and brake fluid resv chromed for $100.
Contact S&H Chrome (615) 865-0100 and tell them what you have and ask for estimated price (you can even send them pics.) They aren't the cheapest around but they do TRUE show quality or better work. Be sure to tell them Robbie Lewis with the Orange TA gave you their number!
05-26-2009, 12:16 PM
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Yeah, I would say around $500...maybe a little more but it shouldnt be much. The MAJOR expense with having pieces chromed is the labor for prep work and being your parts are cleaned and polished already that part would be very minor. To give an expamle MBA pieces are cheap to have chromed because they are so easy to prep. I had a full set of caps and brake fluid resv chromed for $100.
Contact S&H Chrome (615) 865-0100 and tell them what you have and ask for estimated price (you can even send them pics.) They aren't the cheapest around but they do TRUE show quality or better work. Be sure to tell them Robbie Lewis with the Orange TA gave you their number!
Contact S&H Chrome (615) 865-0100 and tell them what you have and ask for estimated price (you can even send them pics.) They aren't the cheapest around but they do TRUE show quality or better work. Be sure to tell them Robbie Lewis with the Orange TA gave you their number!
Bill
05-26-2009, 12:18 PM
#33
Since most of the pieces are flat surfaces and easily reached in the engine bay, personally I would just stick with a periodic touchup with SemiChrome.
The throttle body - that's not so easy. I would Chrome-paint it instead.
The throttle body - that's not so easy. I would Chrome-paint it instead.
05-26-2009, 12:33 PM
#34
(I have been PMed 5 or 6 times with links to the one they sell on ebay....no offense but thats not what I am looking for!)
06-11-2009, 11:15 PM
#35
Bringing this thread back up...
What is the coating that is on the valve covers and other aluminum parts? Is it powdercoat or anodizing or what? What's the easiest, safest way to remove it?
What is the coating that is on the valve covers and other aluminum parts? Is it powdercoat or anodizing or what? What's the easiest, safest way to remove it?
06-12-2009, 01:33 AM
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Here is in action stripping clear coat on a set of wheels.
06-12-2009, 09:55 AM
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Anybody used Wenol? I bought some from a pitchman at a car show years ago. The red and the blue. The stuff was awsome. I wen't crasy polishing stuff!! Can't find any around here though.
