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How to properly remove scratches so they don't reappear

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Old 08-16-2009, 04:07 PM
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Default How to properly remove scratches so they don't reappear

Car is black with some very light scratches. Let's take 1 section of the car to make it easier. My hood under the garage lights looks like **** you can see a bunch of scratches going from the windshield down from the car cover. Again not bad and only under the garage lights at night. When I wash, I always wax and then it looks great again, until the wax wears off/car gets wet ect. Seems all I am really doing is filling in those light scrathes with the wax that is why they disapear for awhile. I have tried buffing with the snap on buffer and all that does is leave swirl marks behind. Next I tried a cutting compound and applied by hand and then a wax/polish with the same results. Scatches come back. Would having the whole car wet sanded be recommended or not? I have heard that would be worse by some and some say that is the thing to do?? I am not a paint/body guy but with the right information I can get by. Thanks
Old 08-16-2009, 04:20 PM
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there would be a couple of ways to handle this problem......if they are light scratches you can get a real detailer to perform a paint correction on the hood.....or you can have the detailer wetsand the hood and buff it back out......
Old 08-16-2009, 04:25 PM
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if you were a little closer to spartanbur i could detail the car for you. but what you are looking at is a 2-3 step buff. i use an orbital buffer with system one polishes. i buff it slow with a wool pad (cuts faster and gets deeper scratches), and then switch to a foam pad to remove the swirls created by the wool pad. after all the swirls are removed, seal it up with a good wax.

with buffing, the scratches you took out will not reapppear, because they are gone compeltely. those scratches are in the clearcoat, and with buffing, that "shaves" the clear coat down passed the scratch to the fresh paint. the only scratches that will appear and new ones you put in it.....and most of hose are created by improper washing methods.
Old 08-16-2009, 05:05 PM
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I do not have an orbital buffer. Would installing the pad on the snap on with some offset be better than straight on? So there is more of an orbital motion than circular??
Old 08-16-2009, 05:15 PM
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Forget about a buffer, just go with a porter cable. It does the same job and won't burn through the paint and leave those horrible buffer swirls. I have used a porter cable for the last 3years and not one person I know can do a better job with a buffer then you could with a porter cable. You just can't make the buffer swirls that a buffer makes if the person ***** up.
Old 08-16-2009, 05:15 PM
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hi i did the mequires scratch x by hand and i was really surprize @ the results, in the garage under the lights it;s good lokin billyb.
Old 08-16-2009, 05:19 PM
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The quick and easy way:

Pick up a bottle of Blue Ribbon's Black Beauty Swirl Remover & Paint Restorer. Black beauty is a carbon based finishing polish that will work out the fine scratches you are experiencing in your cars finish. Simply buff the product into your paint until its just about gone than afterwards top coat it with your favorite wax or synthetic paint sealant.

Black Beauty will also take care of those paint webbing micro scratches that are visible more so on darker colored vehicles.

Check it out here: BLACK BEAUTY

If you would like to top coat the polish with an excellent performing paint sealant I would grab a bottle of Micro Seal 2000 Synthetic Paint Sealant.

Micro Seal 2000 combines new polymer technology with DuPont Teflon, making a high-tech, high-end paint sealant. A rich polymer blend ensures a durable, long-lasting high gloss finish that will have your vehicle surface looking slick & wet.

Check it out here: MICRO SEAL 2000 SYNTHETIC PAINT SEALANT


The professional way:

If your looking to make the jump into full out paint correction you want to pick up some of he Meguiars Mirror Glaze line.

Start off with the Meguiars #105 Ultra Cut Compound Meguiars which contains Meguiar’s exclusive super micro-abrasive technology that uses ultra small abrasives, not big abrasives. This results in smoother paint, faster. Meguiars #105 will get you in the right direction to a perfectly smooth, swirl free shine.

Next you step up to Meguiar's #205 Ultra Finishing Polish which uses advanced technology to produce a deep gloss and rich, swirl-free results.

This fine car polish uses Meguiar's Super Micro Abrasive Technology. Designed for use after M105 Ultra-Cut Compound. Not a cover-up. Meguiar's #205 Professional Ultra Finishing Polish permanently removes swirls and light defects from all paints.

After these two products your finish will look slick and wet again. To seal that shine down follow up with a good long lasting synthetic paint sealant such as Meguiar's #21 2.0 Synthetic Polymer Sealant. This advanced formulation provides technologically advanced paint care and protection. It produces a noticeable deeper, darker, more reflective paint finish. Synthetic polymers deliver extreme protection, eliminating fine scratches and swirls, creating a flawless finish. It glides on easy, with a smooth, resistance-free wipe-off.

Links to products I recomended:

Meguiars #105 Ultra Cut Compound

Meguiars #205 Ultra Finishing Polish

Meguiars #21 Synthetic Polymer Sealant 2.0

You will need to use several different foam buffing pads to make this all come together so check out our HEX Foam Buff Pad Kit. This ki comes with all of the pads as well as backing plate to get you started removing those micro scratches.

HEX Foam Buff Pad Kit

If you have any questions just shoot me a PM.

Joe
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Old 08-16-2009, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by billyb
hi i did the mequires scratch x by hand and i was really surprize @ the results, in the garage under the lights it;s good lokin billyb.
They will return unless his scratches are super super light. Machine is the ONLY way to perm. get out scratches, you just can't do it by hand permanently. Almost any scratch remover and swirl haze polish will work, people say this and that, I use adams and zaino period. Mcguires and mothers and all those brands all have the same fricken stuff. Get a porter cable and some polish and go to town.
Old 08-16-2009, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by fccs
They will return unless his scratches are super super light. Machine is the ONLY way to perm. get out scratches, you just can't do it by hand permanently. Almost any scratch remover and swirl haze polish will work, people say this and that, I use adams and zaino period. Mcguires and mothers and all those brands all have the same fricken stuff. Get a porter cable and some polish and go to town.
I agree with using the machine but the Meguiars Mirror Glaze professional line is completely different then the products you will find in the store. The combo I posted above will permanently remove those scratches. The 105 & 205 combo works everytime.

If you haven't tried them your in for a real treat, they work great.

Joe
Old 08-16-2009, 05:33 PM
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I am all for trying new compounds and polishes. However, I bet I have over $300 in different products out in the garage that local paint shops said would work. I have tried the meguairs stuff (not the above listed) This year it was the Presta swirl remover. There went another $30 for one application as that stuff was the worst I have tried yet. Also I was using a very light White foam pad so there was real low cutting ability and it still had the webs in the sunlight. Maybe it is a combination of using the wrong pad/compounds??
Old 08-16-2009, 05:35 PM
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Joe, If I were to get the 105 and 205 what pads are needed and what speed? I like to use the snap on at around 1400.
Old 08-16-2009, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 03 BUSA
Joe, If I were to get the 105 and 205 what pads are needed and what speed? I like to use the snap on at around 1400.
I would run the buffer with the yellow HEX pad for the compounding (#105) at about 1000-1200 rpms and keep the buffer moving. Do not allow the buffer to stay in one spot or you run the risk burning the clear. Be sure to keep the pad flat at all times and work the polish back and forth then up and down overlapping each pass a little bit.

Follow up with the Blue HEX pad to apply the polish (205) in the same fashion as you did with the compound, back and forth, up and down and slightly overlapping each pass. Instead of using the rotary polisher this will achieve better results with a random orbital (oscilating polisher) such as the Ported Cable 7424XP or the DeWalt 443 polisher (I carry both).

If your serious about tackling this job give me a call at the office tomorrow and I will put together a package deal together for you with everything you will need.

Joe
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Old 08-16-2009, 08:25 PM
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What about using the Zaino products like a Z5??
Old 08-16-2009, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 03 BUSA
What about using the Zaino products like a Z5??
Z5 is a filler and will not remove those scratches. If you check the specs on the product it even states it is a polymer filler which hides swirls. The Meguiar's products will remove them which is what you wee looking for.

Joe
Old 08-17-2009, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 03 BUSA
Car is black with some very light scratches. Let's take 1 section of the car to make it easier. My hood under the garage lights looks like **** you can see a bunch of scratches going from the windshield down from the car cover. Again not bad and only under the garage lights at night. When I wash, I always wax and then it looks great again, until the wax wears off/car gets wet ect. Seems all I am really doing is filling in those light scrathes with the wax that is why they disapear for awhile. I have tried buffing with the snap on buffer and all that does is leave swirl marks behind. Next I tried a cutting compound and applied by hand and then a wax/polish with the same results. Scatches come back. Would having the whole car wet sanded be recommended or not? I have heard that would be worse by some and some say that is the thing to do?? I am not a paint/body guy but with the right information I can get by. Thanks
Using the Porter Cable buffer is safe and user friendly for all experience levels. With your rotary polisher, it will be important to important to exercise caution when using the M105/purple, yellow, or orange pads. It is a fast working combination. To determine if you have indeed removed all your scratches/swirl marks after buffing, wipe the surface with a 50/50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water using a clean microfiber towel. The PC can be used at any time to remove mild/moderate scratches as well as apply your liquid wax or sealant. Maintaining the surface is a continuous process if you drive the car on a regular basis. Any new light scratches can be removed with either the white or black foam pads/mild polish with machine use.

Once you get done with the scratch/blemish removal from the paint, the key will be to not inflict them again. I suggest checking and replacing any items(towels, wash mitt, applicators) used in the cleaning and maintenance of the surface. Lightly rub them over the back of an old CD. If it leaves fine hairline marks on the CD, it will also do the same to your clearcoat.



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