Fuse Box relocation write-up
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Salem, OR
Fuse Box relocation write-up ok so in reference to relocating the fuseboxes on the LS1 cars...
requirements/tools:
AIR pump must be deleted
Sawzall or equivalent
15mm wrench
standard screwdriver
wire loom or door edge trim
candy bar
So to get started.
1. disconnect the positive (+) battery cable
2. disconnect the main power lead to the fuse boxes (usually under the red plastic cap) using the 15mm wrench.
3. take the fuse boxes out of their bracket using a flat head screwdriver
4. pull the fuse boxes out of the way of the metal where the AIR pump mounted. (i used some cable ties to suspend them out of my way, a bored girlfriend would also work)
5. CAREFULLY cut out some of the metal under where the boxes used to be to make the hole large enough for them to fit through.
6. for added protection, put some wire loom or edge molding on the edges of the hole.
7. push the fuse boxes through the hole and run the main power cable under the frame and attach it to its terminal and put the 15mm nut back on its stud.
8. re-connect power cable.
9. eat candy bar
Optional:
i made a lexan cover for the hole using the stock fuse box mount bracket thats spot welded to the inner fender. note that i also have a bunch of other crap in that area like my methanol pump, nitrous wiring etc.
pictures:
before:
after:
cover:
hole, with loom on the edges:
all my crap:
stock bracket removed:
the end
requirements/tools:
AIR pump must be deleted
Sawzall or equivalent
15mm wrench
standard screwdriver
wire loom or door edge trim
candy bar
So to get started.
1. disconnect the positive (+) battery cable
2. disconnect the main power lead to the fuse boxes (usually under the red plastic cap) using the 15mm wrench.
3. take the fuse boxes out of their bracket using a flat head screwdriver
4. pull the fuse boxes out of the way of the metal where the AIR pump mounted. (i used some cable ties to suspend them out of my way, a bored girlfriend would also work)
5. CAREFULLY cut out some of the metal under where the boxes used to be to make the hole large enough for them to fit through.
6. for added protection, put some wire loom or edge molding on the edges of the hole.
7. push the fuse boxes through the hole and run the main power cable under the frame and attach it to its terminal and put the 15mm nut back on its stud.
8. re-connect power cable.
9. eat candy bar
Optional:
i made a lexan cover for the hole using the stock fuse box mount bracket thats spot welded to the inner fender. note that i also have a bunch of other crap in that area like my methanol pump, nitrous wiring etc.
pictures:
before:
after:
cover:
hole, with loom on the edges:
all my crap:
stock bracket removed:
the end
Very interested in some better different angle pics if you have them. Did you have to suspend the lexan peice with those metal L brackets in the pic. A more detailed write up would make this sticky worthy.... i have been thinking of doing this and would love to mock this. Looks good man!
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Salem, OR
not really any way to make this more detailed...you're welcome to come stop by my house and look at it though 
not to be rude, but this site has way more write-ups that suck compared to even this...
not to be rude, but this site has way more write-ups that suck compared to even this...
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,353
Likes: 2
From: Bossier city,LA barksdale AFB
i did the same with my car and the 1st time i drove in a storm my horn relay got wet and shorted out and my horn wouldnt turn off. So its back to stock now
