That seems counter-productive to me since the high alkaline content in Dawn is what strips the oils/wax/etc off the paint. Putting oil in there is pointless. Like others have said, if its only used at the beginning of a full all-out detail its fine. Never use it on a regular basis.

 

I never heard about the olive oil trick but I seriously doubt it works. Pour a glass of water and dribble a few drops of oil. It doesn't mix in with the water. Also, I don't know how the olive oil will react to the paint.

The way you describe your car sounds like you have some minimal swirling and doesn't need a heavy polishing compound like the Meg's and sounds like I'll bust out the Mezerna IP. The Mezerna IP compound takes out heavy moderate swirls to light swirls and polishes the surface in one single step. The problem is that since it has the abrasives to take out heavy moderate swirling, it will rough up and dull the surface regardless if it only has light swirling to begin with. What that means is that if you took two different cars, one with heavy swirling and a car with light swirls (like yours), and work in the Mezerna for about 30 seconds, both cars will have the same roughed up, hazed look. It's the starting point. Then the machine and compound, with time and breakdown of the abrasives, slowly brings the shine back.

When I performed my detail this spring, I'm going to guess that my paint was similar to yours but once I put that pad on and worked in the Mezerna for a few seconds I was left with a hazed finish that required time to polish out. Again my paint was not that bad. It might have been in better condition then yours at that time but still spanned out across 3 days. I mean, I might, MIGHT be able to correct your paint condition in one full day but I don't want to rush it. Like my Nitrous install which really takes one day to install took me about a whole week because I was super **** and took my sweet *** time. It jus' works better for me to slow it down and take my time because like they say, "Slow and steady wins the race!"

 

so, how long does it take to completely do a car?

 

expect as little as 8 hours on a great condition car, to up to 20 hours on a very severe car (assuming it's an f-body sized car)

Batmobile man, I know that it's easy to get hooked on certain products and never leave the bubble to try new things, but I encourage to to step out and try the the MEguairs 105/205 line-up. The M205 can replace what you were describing in your last post, and once that single step is complete...it is 95% of the time LSP ready. No need for the tradition 3-step poolishes with meguairs now. Either do full corrections with 105/205....or find great single step results from just 205.

 

You may want to try Menzerna SIP instead of just the IP. SIP is designed for ceramic clears, so it works better on GM paint. Once I realized this, I hardly use IP on customers cars anymore (GM ones at least) and use SIP a lot more. Better cut, better gloss, and no hazing.

 

The Meg's 205 is similar to the Mezerna IP. If I go with a 105/205 process that is a 2 step process where as the Mezerna IP is a single step.

If I decide to detail on the side for extra cash, I'll pick up the 105 and 205 but currently my car or Jonas's doesn't call for the 105.

 

Hmm, I might have to pick up the SIP and give it a try. I'm almost finished with my Mezerna IP right now too.

I thought the only difference between the Mezerna IP (Intensive Polish) and the SIP (Super Intensive Polish) was the time. I had the impression that the SIP gave the same results but the abrasives worked at a faster rate cutting down on time?

You do some amazing work but I will take your word for it and purchase the SIP when I run out of the IP.

 

Hey James when I had it professionaly detailed, the guy used a PC and what not.. So my paint is VERY clean.. Just for some reason he could not get rid of my light swirls

 

Sounds like he was using the wrong abrasive product. Do you happen to know what products he was using by any chance? I'm not trying to knock the guy BUT jus' because it was at a "Detailer's shop" and had a Porter Cable doesn't necessarily gaurantee that the detailer is competent.

Being very clean doesn't matter. A paint finish with heavy swirls and deep scratches could still be "clean". It jus' means the top clear coat is damaged. Clean and clarity is what we aim for.

 

SIP also spreads easier and has a nicer working time too. Put it this way, I've gone thru 3 bottles of IP in 09, and 10 bottles of SIP in 09. It is definitely better.

 

Word - they need to put more polymer lubricants into the product to help with marring, etc. And then give fair warning to the customer that your paint barely has any protection if you use this product. LoL

M205 doesn't have the cut associated with IP. M205 is a diminishing polish, while IP is a compound.

Check out this chart:
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ad.php?t=33287
^Comparison of Compounds/Polishes

And this chart:
http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-of-germany.html
^Description of cut ability and polish ability of Menz.

Granted there are a lot of variables with these compounds and polishes, but they are not similar.

 

My head hurts from all this funny info.

 

Actually the M105-205 twins are both non-diminishing abrasives.

 

It is not necessary to wash with Dawn. Does it make things faster? It can. does it make things better or easier? Probably not, and when the chemists that work for the companies like DuPont and PPG that make the paint say don't do it, and the manufacturer of the soap says don't do it, common sense would tell you that it probably shouldn't be done. Furthermore, if you are properly prepping the vehicle, you aren't gaining anything. There is nothing on the paint of that car that Dawn will remove, that won't also be removed by SIP, 105, 205 etc. Doing it is a wasted step.

I also said with the exception of Zaino removal or prep, there is no need to do it. I have not had discussion with Sal about the specific chemistry of his products, so I won't presume to say that it does or does not need to be done when using Zaino. But I will say it isn't good for the paint.

Who are all these top guys in the trade that do it? Very few of the top guys I talk to use Dawn at all, and the few that do only use it on a rare basis, and don't recommend it for other people to use. I never use it.

Just because something looks like it works, and just because you can't see any ill effects from doing it that way doesn't make it the correct process to use, and doesn't mean it isn't causing damage.

Will one time hurt? Probably not, but why take the chance when it is not necessary? Why go to all the trouble of washing using a two bucket, top to bottom, multi-mitt method, followed by sheeting, blowing off and blotting dry if you are going to use a soap that is also designed to casue as little damage as possible? Might as well wash it with a scrub brush and dry it with a chamois.

 

You say all that, and fail to realize I ONLY said it should be done on the very rare occasion that a car is being completely stripped down to be clayed, compounded, and polished. I don't even bother using the grit guards, two buckets, yada yada yada when I'm about to compound a car....no need. The scratches you do inflict are about to be removed anyways IMO.

Once a car is in pristine shape, I will never use Dawn on it again. But then again.....I only do this as a side gig and don't bother with maintenance washes...I just educated the car owner how to do it. If they don't listen, they come back later on down the road and get it all done again lol!

 

I stand corrected - good catch, sir.

m205 still doesn't have the cut of IP.

 

Bunch of professionals up in here.

 

I'm an amatuer professional. Amatuer in that I do it as a side-gig and haven't been doing it but for a couple years. Professional in that i get paid, and do a better job than the hack job shops around here! Always plenty more to learn...

 

Some of us are.

 

Hey James... So when am I dropping off my car to you