need help, paint is coming off when waxing
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,720
Likes: 6
From: Mckinney Plano Frisco
need help, paint is coming off when waxing so i bought a 98 t/a for a daily driver and i dont think it had ever been waxed in its life before i got it.
The car was covered in water spots/tree sap. i still havent been able to get this stuff off the t-tops, winshield, or mirrors. any ideas on how to clean this stuff off?
the paint is not peeling, or turning white with oxidations which was a good sign for me when i bought it, however now after 6 different applications of multiple layers of wax i am still getting blue paint off EVERY time i apply a coat. what can i do to stop this? the paint covers my pads and i just want it to stop so i can actually start correcting the swirls and paint.
please give me some tips. i consider myself experienced when it comes to detailing, my 98 z28 has flawless paint and this t/a is really ticking me off. and yes i am experienced with a rotary, they are a pain in the *** but they work if you know how to use them
Thanks!
The car was covered in water spots/tree sap. i still havent been able to get this stuff off the t-tops, winshield, or mirrors. any ideas on how to clean this stuff off?
the paint is not peeling, or turning white with oxidations which was a good sign for me when i bought it, however now after 6 different applications of multiple layers of wax i am still getting blue paint off EVERY time i apply a coat. what can i do to stop this? the paint covers my pads and i just want it to stop so i can actually start correcting the swirls and paint.
please give me some tips. i consider myself experienced when it comes to detailing, my 98 z28 has flawless paint and this t/a is really ticking me off. and yes i am experienced with a rotary, they are a pain in the *** but they work if you know how to use them
Thanks!
Last edited by chrysler kid; Aug 26, 2010 at 12:41 AM.
Do you know if it was repainted? I'm guessing it might have been repainted with a single-stage process. Other than that, I really don't see how this is happening unless you burnt right through the clear coat? Is this happening in certain sections or the whole car?
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,720
Likes: 6
From: Mckinney Plano Frisco
Do you know if it was repainted? I'm guessing it might have been repainted with a single-stage process. Other than that, I really don't see how this is happening unless you burnt right through the clear coat? Is this happening in certain sections or the whole car?
its happening on the whole car. the area i know was repainted has a different "flake" to it at night.
i tried clay bar and it didnt seem to make a difference. however it did make the paint look extremely dull and after applying a coat of wax after clay i was still getting blue pads and towels
i have only seen this problem on red cars, and never on any fbodies. this is my 7th fbody and none have ever done this
i didnt burn it, the first three coats after i bought it were all by hand. the second waxing of 3 coats were done with a cheap orbital, and the third time was hand wax, orbital, and rotary before i decided it was too much for me to overcome by myself at this point
i mean the car looks good after a detail, i am just ocd about detailing
Last edited by chrysler kid; Aug 26, 2010 at 12:58 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,720
Likes: 6
From: Mckinney Plano Frisco
http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...-waxing-3.html
after searching it seems this is a condition of severely neglected single stage paint. im just trying to figure out how it still changes color at night in the light if there is no clear coat. and how there is another body panel with a different flake to it that has the same problems
im going to be trying a cleaner wax and meguiars color X tomorrow.
after searching it seems this is a condition of severely neglected single stage paint. im just trying to figure out how it still changes color at night in the light if there is no clear coat. and how there is another body panel with a different flake to it that has the same problems
im going to be trying a cleaner wax and meguiars color X tomorrow.
I am not sure why other panels are having the same issue unless it was blended in?
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,720
Likes: 6
From: Mckinney Plano Frisco
this car may have been purple from the factory, it has a 97 build date but a late 98 sale date in the owners manual. would make sense if the dealer couldnt move purple off the lot
edite, nope color code is 28U. build date is 1/98
Last edited by chrysler kid; Aug 26, 2010 at 02:50 AM.
Ive run across cars that the clear has worn evenly off the car and they tend to do a color transfer onto whatever you are using. They also look dull after waxed and feel sort of like paper.
Single stage paint does have clear mixed in it. Also, you are not ruining your pads....just wash them by hand in the sink with Dawn or something....they will have that blue tint to them, but they will still be 100% effective.
Integra after a light sand and buff.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...a/forsale6.jpg
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,720
Likes: 6
From: Mckinney Plano Frisco
shine isnt a problem, its clearing up the haze. the paint will look clean under an intense light, however in daylight at certain directions the reflection of the sun is very hazy
If the whole car is doing it then it all single stage, which is very hard to make look good in a metallic color. The more you sand or buff on it the less metallic you will have. So if you buff the door more than the quarter the door will have less metallic and appear darker.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,720
Likes: 6
From: Mckinney Plano Frisco
If the whole car is doing it then it all single stage, which is very hard to make look good in a metallic color. The more you sand or buff on it the less metallic you will have. So if you buff the door more than the quarter the door will have less metallic and appear darker.
