chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

so i bought a 98 t/a for a daily driver and i dont think it had ever been waxed in its life before i got it.

The car was covered in water spots/tree sap. i still havent been able to get this stuff off the t-tops, winshield, or mirrors. any ideas on how to clean this stuff off?

the paint is not peeling, or turning white with oxidations which was a good sign for me when i bought it, however now after 6 different applications of multiple layers of wax i am still getting blue paint off EVERY time i apply a coat. what can i do to stop this? the paint covers my pads and i just want it to stop so i can actually start correcting the swirls and paint.

please give me some tips. i consider myself experienced when it comes to detailing, my 98 z28 has flawless paint and this t/a is really ticking me off. and yes i am experienced with a rotary, they are a pain in the *** but they work if you know how to use them

Thanks!

02TransAm/Batmobile

iTrader: (32)

Do you know if it was repainted? I'm guessing it might have been repainted with a single-stage process. Other than that, I really don't see how this is happening unless you burnt right through the clear coat? Is this happening in certain sections or the whole car?

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

its happening on the whole car. the area i know was repainted has a different "flake" to it at night.

i tried clay bar and it didnt seem to make a difference. however it did make the paint look extremely dull and after applying a coat of wax after clay i was still getting blue pads and towels

i have only seen this problem on red cars, and never on any fbodies. this is my 7th fbody and none have ever done this

i didnt burn it, the first three coats after i bought it were all by hand. the second waxing of 3 coats were done with a cheap orbital, and the third time was hand wax, orbital, and rotary before i decided it was too much for me to overcome by myself at this point

i mean the car looks good after a detail, i am just ocd about detailing

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...-waxing-3.html

after searching it seems this is a condition of severely neglected single stage paint. im just trying to figure out how it still changes color at night in the light if there is no clear coat. and how there is another body panel with a different flake to it that has the same problems

im going to be trying a cleaner wax and meguiars color X tomorrow.

02TransAm/Batmobile

iTrader: (32)

You know people with OCD obsessively scrub/wash their hands to the point they start bleeding. Anyone else see the similarity?

02TransAm/Batmobile

iTrader: (32)

Single-stage is a mix of color and clear and is applied all in one, hence the name "single-stage." If mixed properly, it'll have the appearance of a 2-stage (clear coat) paint job in that it comes out shiny. Maybe you are thinking of single-stage as Base Color without the Clear Coat? It's sort of like how people mix clear with some black to tint their tail lights instead of purchasing VHT.

I am not sure why other panels are having the same issue unless it was blended in?

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

it was blended, poorly. there is overspray line from poor taping on the passengers side door, and under the spoiler there are tape lines.

02TransAm/Batmobile

iTrader: (32)

I would suspect that it was poorly painted because they chose to go with a single-stage paint job. It's usually used for low end paint projects.

If this is the case, don't worry about the paint coming off.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

im worried because its ruining my pads


this car may have been purple from the factory, it has a 97 build date but a late 98 sale date in the owners manual. would make sense if the dealer couldnt move purple off the lot

edite, nope color code is 28U. build date is 1/98

GSus

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like you have no clear. Might want to clean up as much as you can and spray some clear on

Gluemaker

iTrader: (12)

+1
Ive run across cars that the clear has worn evenly off the car and they tend to do a color transfer onto whatever you are using. They also look dull after waxed and feel sort of like paper.

02TransAm/Batmobile

iTrader: (32)

If there was no clear, he would of seen signs of clear-coat failure. Clear-Coat failure is pretty evident.

motoo344

iTrader: (19)

I thought single stage paint had clear mixed in?

kyles2000z

iTrader: (8)

Single stage paint does have clear mixed in it. Also, you are not ruining your pads....just wash them by hand in the sink with Dawn or something....they will have that blue tint to them, but they will still be 100% effective.

bj350hp

iTrader: (4)

X2. I got paint all over my pads when I did my old integra (Maaco single stage paint). Washed them and they are fine.

Integra after a light sand and buff.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...a/forsale6.jpg

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

shine isnt a problem, its clearing up the haze. the paint will look clean under an intense light, however in daylight at certain directions the reflection of the sun is very hazy

kyles2000z

iTrader: (8)

You need to finish the paint with a finer polish and pad combo. Meguiars 205 on a blue or white pad will do the trick more than likely.

transam5.7lt1

iTrader: (18)

It looks good to me in the pictures...

black_sheep454

iTrader: (9)

If the whole car is doing it then it all single stage, which is very hard to make look good in a metallic color. The more you sand or buff on it the less metallic you will have. So if you buff the door more than the quarter the door will have less metallic and appear darker.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

yeah ive noticed that. this trans am has a much darker blue to it than my z28 does. i really cant complain, i bought it cheaper than what you can get a roller for, i just love detailing and want to get it perfect