grille removal safely??
this is from H8 B N SLO:
When I replaced mine I took off the bolts under the car by the air dam, reached behind the grill and pushed the tabs out. You will still have 2 or 3 bolts holding the grille on. I had a friend pull the grille out far enough that I could get a pair of big scissors behind it and cut the plastic "screws" that are molded to the back of the grille. Once I got the grille off I just hit the fascia where the "bolts" were and they fell out through the bottom.
This wil obviously ruin the stock grille but I do not plan on ever putting it back on
this is from Xsta Z 28:
Grille Removal Tips 101
As many of you have expressed the “YANK” method scares you to death - me too.
So I wanted to see if the grille could be remove without the “YANK” method or the removal of the entire bumper. Even though the factory grille is a POS I wanted to not damage it so I could keep it.
Here is what I learned.
GM in their infinite wisdom installed the damn thing with two different types of fasteners. There are 8 points the grille is secured. Along the bottom are 3 rectangular press on pieces. Along the top are 3 - 11mm nuts, and on the left and right side are hooks.
To remove the grille I first pulled out the three plastic expansion anchors under the car that hold the bumper cover to the metal frame, pull it gently down, then reached my arm inside I felt the three press on fasteners, with a Mini Stanley Wonder Bar (a very small pry bar - Craftsman makes one too) I slowly pried off the clips. Now the bottom is loose.
Then I reached to either side of the grille and released the hooks on the left and right side. By now the grille is VERY loose. To avoid scratching the paint or clear coat I wrapped the entire grille opening with “blue” 3M masking tape. Unfortunately I could only “feel” the top fasteners, and could not get a wrench around them. But now I have it apart I can tell you they are 11mm.
Since the grille was so loose I did employ the “YANK” method on the remaining fasteners two of the nuts popped right off one stud did break. The grille is complete and visibly in good condition, also no damage to the car.
I hope this info helps all you Camaro owners.
thanks for all your help
thanks for your reply
any more suggestions and answers?
thanks
It's held on by plastic tabs that have a metal retainer in back that holds them on.
The hardest one is the upper middle hole under (where the nose comes to a point). Yanking on that one caused the paint to spider as you yank on it, but once it's off, you have to get your face 2 inches away to see the spidering. And if you cover it with another aftermarket grill, it won't matter.
i think i am going to get the tabs out and reach behind it and cut the plastic screws off and tape around the old grille so i don;t chip anything
the only i am still wondering about is:
how to pull out the tabs? any advice
thanks for your replies
I thought I would like the look with it out, but no. So here are my options, new grill or expoxy the holes from the old. Any ideas guys? I also agree the yank method sucks, I was wondering (car off insurance for winter) if you can get to the grill mounting after condenser and rad are out (cam swap up coming). Also you guys with aftermarket grills how are they being mounted, I would hate to have to reinstall the stocker to put a billet or mesh one on. archdog that was quite a good post, I definatly could visualize every step after looking at my mistake to try to fix it, did you have any luck being able to see the top grill mounting locations from under the car with the three pushpins removed, how muck of a pain in the dick was it to line up the bumper?
Last edited by daryl2cb@yahoo.com; Nov 5, 2004 at 02:35 PM. Reason: I cant spell
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I've heard of people removing the grill and leaving it like that instead of installing a new one. Is this true, common, okay, gay, hickish, or ricer in any way?



