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Official 4th Gen F-Body Light Bulb List
#42
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ZexGX, I was looking at getting new LED bulbs on superbrightleds.com and they had a warning about "turn signal issues with LED bulbs". http://www.superbrightleds.com/carbu...php#turnsignal So my question is, do I need to buy something so that I can install new LED bulbs so that the front and rear turn signals and brake lights will work? Sort of confused on this. You sound like you have a lot of knowledge on the bulbs. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
Mike
Mike
#43
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ZexGX, I was looking at getting new LED bulbs on superbrightleds.com and they had a warning about "turn signal issues with LED bulbs". http://www.superbrightleds.com/carbu...php#turnsignal So my question is, do I need to buy something so that I can install new LED bulbs so that the front and rear turn signals and brake lights will work? Sort of confused on this. You sound like you have a lot of knowledge on the bulbs. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
Mike
Mike
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You will need an electronic flasher module or a flasher module that is LED friendly. You may also need a resistor on the brake light circuit to prevent issues with using cruise control. That's the worst I've heard of it (both are not terribly difficult to do). There should be several threads on here that go over these items.
#45
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See below, and post up if you see anything that needs to be corrected/added. It's official, since I got the list from a GM dealers computer system and verified each listing, and NOT the incorrect Sylvania list that everybody copy/pastes without checking:
[...]
All Interior:
[...]
Headlight Switch: PC118 (LEDs = 3mm neo-wedge)
[...]
All Interior:
[...]
Headlight Switch: PC118 (LEDs = 3mm neo-wedge)
http://www.jkllamps.com/incandescent/neo-wedgelamps
CNW1-7219 12V .06A T-1 .15MSCP C-2V Filament
CNW1-7219 12V .06A T-1 .15MSCP C-2V Filament
http://www.cecindustries.com/landing...tPartNum=PC118
PC118 14V 0.12A C-2V Filament
PC118 14V 0.12A C-2V Filament
#46
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I don't think this is the right number. When I needed one for my 2000 SS, I went to the dealer and got GM 10195525. Inside the GM box was a JKL Components Corporation CNW1-7219. The specs for that say:
While the PC118 is:
So the PC118 draws twice as much power as the CNW1-7219.
While the PC118 is:
So the PC118 draws twice as much power as the CNW1-7219.
#49
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Door Handle Bezel Lights: 74
So you'll need a 74 style bulb (not PC74).
If you are asking what tools you need, you'll need a phillips head screwdriver to remove the bezel, and probably some duct tape and some needle nose pliers with a very fine tip to extract the bulb (it's usually a PITA because the bulbs usually break - that's where the tape comes in). Wrap the tape around the bulb completely and get a good adhesion. Try to pull the bulb out with the tape on the bulb. If you can't, you may need to wear some gloves (just to be safe) and break the bulb while it's inside the tape and carefully remove the bits and pieces left over using the needle nose pliers. Do this over a surface that you can clean the small glass and metal shards off of (or the sticky side of tape so it can catch all that and the dust).
#50
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Done! Check the first post for the updated list. My car had 3155K in it, which I think were the factory bulbs, but I'm not totally sure. 3155 and 3057 are the best IMO because they are a single filament design, although 3157 bulbs (the dual filament version of 3057) work correctly if you have those laying around.
#51
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Thank you! I am not well versed in electrical stuff. Whats the difference between 3155 and 3057? I see that 3155 is 20.5 watts, 1.6 amps and 264 lumens and 3057 is 26.88 watts, 2.1 amps and 402 lumens. Are those differences telling me that 3057 is brighter than 3155? Thanks again
#52
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You are correct. 3155K is a lower-wattage version of 3155 (18.5 watts vs 20.5). One thing to note, though: if you use lights that generate a lot of heat, for a long time, you have the potential to discolor / melt the lens housing. I melted my reverse lenses once when using an over-wattage halogen bulb for several minutes (a company sells retrofitted high powered halogen bulbs with a 3155/3057 base)... Had to buy new tail lights. Probably won't happen even if using a 3057, but good to know in case you ever see those super-high-powered retrofit bulbs for sale.
Thanks again for the info.
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I recently bought some LEDs and my cluster is no where near as bright as some of the pics I have seen. From the SBLED list I got 194's and your list says 161's. Car is an 02 35thLE.
Which is the best bulb for the brightest results.
Also which style is best for not having hot spots?
TY for any info. You seem to know this stuff and I feel like a moron. LOL
Which is the best bulb for the brightest results.
Also which style is best for not having hot spots?
TY for any info. You seem to know this stuff and I feel like a moron. LOL
Last edited by Dabom75; 03-10-2015 at 03:16 PM.
#57
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So this will probably seem really stupid, but have pity on me. It's finals week and I've HAD it with my classes.
What the heck is the "outer brake light," on the Firebirds?
What the heck is the "outer brake light," on the Firebirds?
#59
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On a side note, my 96 TA uses 2057 bulbs for the taillights, not the 3057 on the list.
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Trying to switch to LEDs for my brake/turn signals because the left side is sluggish compared to the right when using incadecent, however I've went through 2 sets of 1157 (same as 2057 originally in my '97 TA, not 3057), the first set were not error correcting, in other words had no resistor and the problem was that they would not blink with the blinker, and a bigger problem is not coming on as parking lights.
The second set were in fact error correcting with built in resistor which fixed the blinking problem, however still no parking light feature.
If you put them in the wrong way just to test because they won't lock in place, they will light up fully bright with the parking lights.
So I don't know, has anybody gotten them to work? If it is the tabs not making contact, there must be a quality set built to correct this?
Thanks!
Tim
The second set were in fact error correcting with built in resistor which fixed the blinking problem, however still no parking light feature.
If you put them in the wrong way just to test because they won't lock in place, they will light up fully bright with the parking lights.
So I don't know, has anybody gotten them to work? If it is the tabs not making contact, there must be a quality set built to correct this?
Thanks!
Tim