Ask a Professional Detailer
08-05-2013 | 01:18 AM
#2381
By the time they start looking dry, they are usually more sun-bleached than just dried out, so getting shine back to them is something you have to keep up on frequently.
I would suggest any trim shine product that doesn't contain silicone. Silicone will give a false shine, as its the silicone that does the shine and it doesn't soak in to the plastic, so it goes away fast. It also will dry the plastic out more (though there is debate on that subject).
Black WOW is a good one, and also 303 Aerospace protectant, as they both contain UV blockers which will help the trim look good longer. You can also use Zaino Z16, diluted to a low shine or a full strength. Meguiars Professional Water-Based Dressing works nicely too, but doesn't last quite as long.
I would advise against dressing running boards or rear steps on tailgates as they can be slick and you don't want a family member (especially a child) or friend to slip and fall and hurt themselves.
I would suggest any trim shine product that doesn't contain silicone. Silicone will give a false shine, as its the silicone that does the shine and it doesn't soak in to the plastic, so it goes away fast. It also will dry the plastic out more (though there is debate on that subject).
Black WOW is a good one, and also 303 Aerospace protectant, as they both contain UV blockers which will help the trim look good longer. You can also use Zaino Z16, diluted to a low shine or a full strength. Meguiars Professional Water-Based Dressing works nicely too, but doesn't last quite as long.
I would advise against dressing running boards or rear steps on tailgates as they can be slick and you don't want a family member (especially a child) or friend to slip and fall and hurt themselves.
08-05-2013 | 03:02 AM
#2382
I've tried to read the entire thread, but it's 102 pages and I have a simple question:
What would you recommend to a "beginner serious" detailer in terms of a basic kit to get one started?
I'd like to pick up the Porter Cable unit, but have really no clue where to go from there.. I don't mind spending a little money, but I want to spend it right.
Thanks!
What would you recommend to a "beginner serious" detailer in terms of a basic kit to get one started?
I'd like to pick up the Porter Cable unit, but have really no clue where to go from there.. I don't mind spending a little money, but I want to spend it right.
Thanks!
Griots
http://www.autogeek.net/griots-rando...-polisher.html
Harbor freight
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-varia...her-69924.html
As far as pads I use lake country. I use orange (compound), white (poloish) and black (wax).
http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country...edge-pads.html
The paint is hard on these cars but the foam pads get the job done. I will be trying out meguiar's microfiber pads next time.
As far as product's to try, Meguiar's ulimate line is a good over the counter line up. Ultimate compund, ultimate polish and ultimate wax work very well together and give good results.
08-05-2013 | 09:20 AM
#2383
I've tried to read the entire thread, but it's 102 pages and I have a simple question:
What would you recommend to a "beginner serious" detailer in terms of a basic kit to get one started?
I'd like to pick up the Porter Cable unit, but have really no clue where to go from there.. I don't mind spending a little money, but I want to spend it right.
Thanks!
What would you recommend to a "beginner serious" detailer in terms of a basic kit to get one started?
I'd like to pick up the Porter Cable unit, but have really no clue where to go from there.. I don't mind spending a little money, but I want to spend it right.
Thanks!
08-05-2013 | 07:17 PM
#2384
Best way to clean Racestars? Cleaned them with regular soap + water, they are still dirty. Cleaned them with some harder stuff tonight off the car, still dirty and water stains are there. How can I keep these clean?
08-05-2013 | 08:53 PM
#2385
08-05-2013 | 09:21 PM
#2387
After that you will have to get some aluminum polish and polish them by hand or with a drill. To make sure they are polished on the back side of the wheel rub some polish on the wheel and see if it turns black. If it does it's bare aluminum, if not its clear coated.
Good metal polishes you can get at most auto parts stores are Mothers Mag/Aluminum polish and Mothers Billet polish. The billet polish is a finer polish.
Start with the mag/aluminum polish and a MF towel and see what kind of results you get.
Adam's metal polishes are very good. I normally use a combination of mothers and adams.
If the wheels are in really bad shape there's a couple different routes to go.
08-05-2013 | 09:32 PM
#2388
I've tried to read the entire thread, but it's 102 pages and I have a simple question:
What would you recommend to a "beginner serious" detailer in terms of a basic kit to get one started?
I'd like to pick up the Porter Cable unit, but have really no clue where to go from there.. I don't mind spending a little money, but I want to spend it right.
Thanks!
What would you recommend to a "beginner serious" detailer in terms of a basic kit to get one started?
I'd like to pick up the Porter Cable unit, but have really no clue where to go from there.. I don't mind spending a little money, but I want to spend it right.
Thanks!
08-05-2013 | 09:37 PM
#2389
Thanks. The inside is not polished, it is pretty much just metal, so I'll just have to use a little bit on the inside spoke and go from there. I cleaned all the brake dust/fluid/whatever that was on them with Brown Royal cleaner that I have and it came off, as I said the issue is the face with all the water lines/spots and it basically looking like it is stained. I'll go by and pick up some mother's cleaner at the store sometime this week/weekend and see where that gets me.
08-07-2013 | 09:32 AM
#2391
Who has dealt with c5 z06 paint? I started detailing my 03 z06 and while compounding I have tried a few different products. I found m105 -> Menz sf4500 looked the best very close to Adams new polishes if not the same, Adams just dusted a bit to much for me. Menz SIP just wasnt cutting enough it seemed. All with MF pads and a PCXP, now the issue is I wasn't satisfied with the cut. Not sure if my PC just isnt cutting it or what. What have you found the best?
08-07-2013 | 09:49 AM
#2392
FormerVendor
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 757
Likes: 0
From: In the detail shop!
Who has dealt with c5 z06 paint? I started detailing my 03 z06 and while compounding I have tried a few different products. I found m105 -> Menz sf4500 looked the best very close to Adams new polishes if not the same, Adams just dusted a bit to much for me. Menz SIP just wasnt cutting enough it seemed. All with MF pads and a PCXP, now the issue is I wasn't satisfied with the cut. Not sure if my PC just isnt cutting it or what. What have you found the best?
The PC is likely the culprit in terms of correction speed. It's capable, just not as fast on those cars as you may be used to on other finishes. You'll need more passes/product to get the same level of correction that you will on a vehicle with a more "normal" clear coat.
08-07-2013 | 07:17 PM
#2393
Who has dealt with c5 z06 paint? I started detailing my 03 z06 and while compounding I have tried a few different products. I found m105 -> Menz sf4500 looked the best very close to Adams new polishes if not the same, Adams just dusted a bit to much for me. Menz SIP just wasnt cutting enough it seemed. All with MF pads and a PCXP, now the issue is I wasn't satisfied with the cut. Not sure if my PC just isnt cutting it or what. What have you found the best?
08-07-2013 | 07:53 PM
#2394
Who has dealt with c5 z06 paint? I started detailing my 03 z06 and while compounding I have tried a few different products. I found m105 -> Menz sf4500 looked the best very close to Adams new polishes if not the same, Adams just dusted a bit to much for me. Menz SIP just wasnt cutting enough it seemed. All with MF pads and a PCXP, now the issue is I wasn't satisfied with the cut. Not sure if my PC just isnt cutting it or what. What have you found the best?
The Adams polishes dusted too much for you but the M105 didn't? That's unusual. My experience with M105 is that it dusts like no other. Adams new correcting polish didn't dust nearly as much during my correction of my Colorado last Thursday as M105 did with my brothers CTS-V.
Also if you add a few drops of D300 on the pad when using M105 it helps with dusting a lot too.
A lot of people overwork M105 which causes it to dust.
Short work time and proper pad priming are the key to M105.
08-07-2013 | 09:07 PM
#2395
-Speed 5 on the PC w/ a cutting MF pad and M105 will get quite a bit out.
-Priming the pad(foam) properly greatly reduces the amount M105 dusts. It doesn't dust as bad when using it with a MF pad.
-A lot of people overwork M105 which causes it to dust.
-Short work time and proper pad priming are the key to M105.
-Priming the pad(foam) properly greatly reduces the amount M105 dusts. It doesn't dust as bad when using it with a MF pad.
-A lot of people overwork M105 which causes it to dust.
-Short work time and proper pad priming are the key to M105.
08-08-2013 | 01:42 PM
#2396
The Adams polishes dusted too much for you but the M105 didn't? That's unusual. My experience with M105 is that it dusts like no other. Adams new correcting polish didn't dust nearly as much during my correction of my Colorado last Thursday as M105 did with my brothers CTS-V.
Going from M105 to SF4500 is a pretty big jump even on hard paint. SF4500 has a lot of oils in it and can mask marring if you aren't doing an IPA wipedown. For the compounding step on vette clear coat I would probably step up to microfiber pads depending on how bad the defects are. Speed 5 on the PC w/ a cutting MF pad and M105 will get quite a bit out.
Priming the pad(foam) properly greatly reduces the amount M105 dusts. It doesn't dust as bad when using it with a MF pad.
Also if you add a few drops of D300 on the pad when using M105 it helps with dusting a lot too.
A lot of people overwork M105 which causes it to dust.
Short work time and proper pad priming are the key to M105.
Priming the pad(foam) properly greatly reduces the amount M105 dusts. It doesn't dust as bad when using it with a MF pad.
Also if you add a few drops of D300 on the pad when using M105 it helps with dusting a lot too.
A lot of people overwork M105 which causes it to dust.
Short work time and proper pad priming are the key to M105.
08-08-2013 | 06:01 PM
#2398
Hmm I will give it another go, but might wait on my rupes.
I was using MF pads, defects are pretty bad honestly. I was getting 80% correction and I want better but I really feel like my PC just isn't strong enough. I would do two passes of m105, then one of sf4500, I did do IPA after and check in the sun. Maybe I am being to **** lol.
I was using MF pads, defects are pretty bad honestly. I was getting 80% correction and I want better but I really feel like my PC just isn't strong enough. I would do two passes of m105, then one of sf4500, I did do IPA after and check in the sun. Maybe I am being to **** lol.
08-10-2013 | 12:43 PM
#2399
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 184
Likes: 1
Jeff, thanks for all your time and info!
Questions on caring for new paint: 0-2 yr plan.
Car was painted late Feb '13, brought back to heated shop to cure & brought out May 1. No mechanical sanding used on my car! I'm the original owner. Used Spies Hecker - the solvent (81 WA8774) and 3 coats of clear. How hard is this clear?
My body guy advised against buffing for a driver and said that there is enough clear for that in the future, "learn first." I use the two bucket wash, MF, jetseal 109 (mid-May), and wax.
I'm having a hard time keeping up with the birds. I usually catch them, but one or two slight etches have occurred (nobody else sees them, even when I point them out, they think I'm paranoid). For a driver, will I just have to live with this? What's a reasonable expectation for a driver?
I'm beginning to see the value of learning first, before taking away any mil thickness.
I drove out of the dealership in '89, and I know I have better paint now!
Questions on caring for new paint: 0-2 yr plan.
Car was painted late Feb '13, brought back to heated shop to cure & brought out May 1. No mechanical sanding used on my car! I'm the original owner. Used Spies Hecker - the solvent (81 WA8774) and 3 coats of clear. How hard is this clear?
My body guy advised against buffing for a driver and said that there is enough clear for that in the future, "learn first." I use the two bucket wash, MF, jetseal 109 (mid-May), and wax.
I'm having a hard time keeping up with the birds. I usually catch them, but one or two slight etches have occurred (nobody else sees them, even when I point them out, they think I'm paranoid). For a driver, will I just have to live with this? What's a reasonable expectation for a driver?
I'm beginning to see the value of learning first, before taking away any mil thickness.
I drove out of the dealership in '89, and I know I have better paint now!
08-10-2013 | 04:16 PM
#2400
Jeff, thanks for all your time and info!
Questions on caring for new paint: 0-2 yr plan.
Car was painted late Feb '13, brought back to heated shop to cure & brought out May 1. No mechanical sanding used on my car! I'm the original owner. Used Spies Hecker - the solvent (81 WA8774) and 3 coats of clear. How hard is this clear?
My body guy advised against buffing for a driver and said that there is enough clear for that in the future, "learn first." I use the two bucket wash, MF, jetseal 109 (mid-May), and wax.
I'm having a hard time keeping up with the birds. I usually catch them, but one or two slight etches have occurred (nobody else sees them, even when I point them out, they think I'm paranoid). For a driver, will I just have to live with this? What's a reasonable expectation for a driver?
I'm beginning to see the value of learning first, before taking away any mil thickness.
I drove out of the dealership in '89, and I know I have better paint now!
Questions on caring for new paint: 0-2 yr plan.
Car was painted late Feb '13, brought back to heated shop to cure & brought out May 1. No mechanical sanding used on my car! I'm the original owner. Used Spies Hecker - the solvent (81 WA8774) and 3 coats of clear. How hard is this clear?
My body guy advised against buffing for a driver and said that there is enough clear for that in the future, "learn first." I use the two bucket wash, MF, jetseal 109 (mid-May), and wax.
I'm having a hard time keeping up with the birds. I usually catch them, but one or two slight etches have occurred (nobody else sees them, even when I point them out, they think I'm paranoid). For a driver, will I just have to live with this? What's a reasonable expectation for a driver?
I'm beginning to see the value of learning first, before taking away any mil thickness.
I drove out of the dealership in '89, and I know I have better paint now!