josh99ta

iTrader: (1)

Just curious, what is the best way to remove the side molding (ding guard) and Trans Am script on the doors? I tried dental floss as I read somewhere but it didn't work. It would cut a teeny tiny bit through the adhesive but it would break most of the time. I did not use a heat gun though, I was afraid I might get the paint too hot and bubble it. I'm not too keen on taking a plastic putty knife or something like that to it, maybe some Spiderwire fishing wire would work, that stuff is tough as nails. Any other ideas to get the stuff off without harming my paint? Should I try to use a small bit of heat from my heat gun? Also, what should I use to remove the adhesive left on the car once the trim is removed?

Also, how do you adjust the headlights on T/As? My Raptor hood doesn't have the best fit and I'm going to try to snug the headlight covers up on the hood a bit more, so I'm curious how I need to go about this. I popped the hood and took a look, saw tons of bolts and such, but didn't see anything I could use to move the headlight cover up slightly and towards the hood more.

Thanks for any help on either of these. It's much appreciated.

<small>[ April 02, 2003, 02:50 PM: Message edited by: josh99ta ]</small>

minivette

Regular fishing line. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

JonSS

iTrader: (2)

Josh,
I removed the side molding from my camaro recently and the SS badges. They are probably put on the same way for you, but I just peeled up a corner of the side guards, pulled on it a bit, and used a razor edge as I pulled it away from the car to cut the 3M tape adhesive. For what was left on the car, I used my thumb and rubbed away.

If any of that made sense to you...

richieg

iTrader: (1)

it's alot easier with a heat gun, but if you don't like them. Just use any hook tool to get an edge big enough to grab onto, then pull it off, as far as all of tape left, just go get some goo gone adhesive remover, soak the tape in it, let it sit for a couple of minutes, then wipe it off, it will come right off.

josh99ta

iTrader: (1)

I tried the razor idea, didn't work too well. I knicked my paint in a spot or two even being very careful, then I found a ribbon (since there is no fishing wire in sight) and it was flat enough to get under the trim. I got it under there and pulled enough to get the trim up, then pulled it all off. Then I took my hand and rubbed most of the adhesive off (and have barely any skin left on my thumb and index finger of my right hand, hurts to type <img border="0" alt="[cry]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" /> ) but there is a little left. No Goo Gone around, and I'm not going to try alcohol, but just soak some water on it then try to peel it off. 99% of all of it is gone though. Just gotta get back out there, get that last bit off, and clean it up. I can already tell I'm going to love the smoother look <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Back to work........

josh99ta

iTrader: (1)

Neither water nor Z6 will remove the adhesive left from the driver's side rear quarter panel trim, there is a glob here and there where that piece came up. The front quarter panels are perfect, both came out great. But on the door you can see the outline where the adhesive used to be. I've tried the Z6 on it as well to no avail. What is something that is safe for the paint that will get that off, some of the Goo Gone adhesive remover? Anything? I could wetsand it and then use some 3M fine cut to get it off I suppose, but I'll leave that as a last resort. Someone help, this has the potential to look so good but right now it's looking pretty bad. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

minivette

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
i appreciate the responses guys. actually, today i decided to try
something
else. i called around, and i got a hold of some "3M adhesive remover"
($10)
and boy, was it worth the $10 i spent--that stuff works brilliantly. i
just
poured some of that stuff down the cracks of the molding, and i just
let it
sit in the hot sun, and every 2 minutes i'd pour more down in there. i
did
about 5 coats, and then i slowly pulled the molding off--it all came
off.
about 1% of the molding stuck to the actual paint, and that took me
about 5
minutes to remove--MUCH better than the three hours i spent on the
process
yesterday. thx for all your help, and if anyone wants to attempt this
(Craig) go to a paint supply store and get this stuff, it's wonderful
and he
said it's completely safe for car paint. just give the car a good wash
when
you are finished. oh, and tell me what you think! thx!</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">that was a cut-n-paste response from a guy on our car club email list who just did this on his car.

josh99ta

iTrader: (1)

I'll check into the 3M adhesive remover. I've got bigger fish to fry now though. It appears that after my accident, in which the entire front of the car had to be painted and then blended into the doors, the body shop didn't do such a hot job.

First off there is a dark outline around where the side molding was. I can't seem to do anything to get this off. Not even scratching it with my fingernail will get it off. Seems it's discolour paint or something. Also, on the driver's door where Trans Am was, the paint is uneven (like it ran and was stopped by the Trans Am, leaving a thicker paint above the Trans Am) and discolour under the Trans Am. Needless to say I'm not at all happy about all of this, and the only fix I can see is to get my doors repainted to fix these flaws. That isn't financially feasible so I'm going to just put the molding back on (woo hoo, alot of work for nothing) until the time comes to repaint, in which case I'll have them leave it all off.

Now, the question stands, what do I use to put the molding back on? I'm sure something like 3M double sided tape, but not exactly sure what type. All the double sided tape I've used hasn't been near strong enough to secure something like the molding. Also, the Trans Am was attached with a thinner type of two sided tape, and it was black and felt more rubbery than the foamy double sided tape used on the molding. Any idea on what this was? Thanks for any help guys. I've got a car show Saturday afternoon and want to get this fixed by then. Thanks for any help.

minivette

You can get all the different 3M double sided tape (including the rubbery kind) at your local auto paint supply store.