Adams Wheel Polish (1&2)
08-08-2012, 09:30 AM
#44
Hey Gunner, soap and water to wash them, nothing else. Then dry them with microfiber before you begin to polish. You also need to realize that polished aluminum will never have a perfect mirror like chrome finish, that some hazing is inevitable. Actually when the the wheels were delivered to me new they looked worse than when I sold them to you (way more swirls). My rule of thumb is if they look good from 3-5' away, you're good to go. If you spend hours on each one every time, you'll go insane because they just get dirty again!
08-08-2012, 02:21 PM
#45
FormerVendor
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Thanks for all the positive reviews guys!
One tip - after you've got them polished to your liking apply a coating of our Quick Sealant to keep them that way for longer. It will slow the oxidation process substantially as well as keep them much easier to clean.
http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-701-a...k-sealant.aspx
One tip - after you've got them polished to your liking apply a coating of our Quick Sealant to keep them that way for longer. It will slow the oxidation process substantially as well as keep them much easier to clean.
http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-701-a...k-sealant.aspx
08-08-2012, 05:59 PM
#46
I have found that the more I polish, the more I realize that I need to sand them with 1000 grit. I'm considering using like a blue scotch brite pad, which is supposedly non-scratching, and use some of the Adam's #1 polish to do a serious polish first. Then move to the #1 with a clotch or microfiber applicator, then move to #2 with an applicator.
08-08-2012, 10:48 PM
#49
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t Hey Gunner, soap and water to wash them, nothing else. Then dry them with microfiber before you begin to polish. You also need to realize that polished aluminum will never have a perfect mirror like chrome finish, that some hazing is inevitable. Actually when the the wheels were delivered to me new they looked worse than when I sold them to you (way more swirls). My rule of thumb is if they look good from 3-5' away, you're good to go. If you spend hours on each one every time, you'll go insane because they just get dirty again!
08-09-2012, 10:12 AM
#50
Well, my Adams 1 and 2 polish arrived yesterday and I couldn't wait to put it on. The wheels were previoulsy washed and dried, sprayed with Flitz, washed off and dried again and then, yesterday, polished with Adams. I polished them first with the number 1 and wow, what a difference. It's sad to say, but Adams 1 produced a better "shine" than any other product I've ever used (Mother's, Braso, etc.). Then came time to polish with Adams 2. Took a little elbow greese to get the polish to turn black, but after a while, it did. Wiped them off after letting the polish do it's work for about an hour and all I can say is that stuff is amazing. I will NEVER use another polish again. I'm sold on Adams. Now I need to order the sealent to keep them looking this way. I will do my best to get some pics up. Long story short, all oxidation is gone, all the little imperfections are gone and I'm left with a brand new looking set of CCW 505a's.
08-09-2012, 04:00 PM
#51
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I have found that the more I polish, the more I realize that I need to sand them with 1000 grit. I'm considering using like a blue scotch brite pad, which is supposedly non-scratching, and use some of the Adam's #1 polish to do a serious polish first. Then move to the #1 with a clotch or microfiber applicator, then move to #2 with an applicator.
If a set of wheels is seriously trashed I'll go thru the following:
- Acid wheel cleaner to etch the surface and even them out. Pretty much turns them white.
- 0000 steel wool + MP #1
- Blue pad on a drill + MP #1 (use a foam pad for tight spots)
- Red pad on drill + MP #2 (use a foam pad for tight spots)
- Finish off with brilliant glaze if its a show wheel, quick sealant if its a driver.
08-09-2012, 04:32 PM
#52
0000 steel wool is also good for heavy restoration work.
If a set of wheels is seriously trashed I'll go thru the following:
If a set of wheels is seriously trashed I'll go thru the following:
- Acid wheel cleaner to etch the surface and even them out. Pretty much turns them white.
- 0000 steel wool + MP #1
- Blue pad on a drill + MP #1 (use a foam pad for tight spots)
- Red pad on drill + MP #2 (use a foam pad for tight spots)
- Finish off with brilliant glaze if its a show wheel, quick sealant if its a driver.
Good info. I'll probably start with the 0000 steel wool with the MP#1 step and see what kind of results I get.
08-09-2012, 10:26 PM
#55
http://www.scotch-brite.com/wps/port...Page=30&rt=rud
08-10-2012, 10:33 AM
#57
It's nice to know that I have the right tools to get the job done.
Once I get them perfect, I may have them cleared, we'll see. Down side to that is once you clear them, any flaw is unremovable unless you strip the clear and start over.
