Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

I need some help. I got the Glowshift electric fuel pressure gauge all wired up, but when I turn the key, nothing happens (the gauge does not light up). I checked all my wiring and it looks good. Running the red power source to the accessory mini fuse location on the drivers side fuse panel by the door. Ground is ran to a spot under the steering column. Green wire ran from the gauge to the sender unit and another ground from the sender to a spot in the engine compartment. This thing is supposed to light up when the key is turned to ignition, correct? What could it be?

jastone

No familiar with glow shift, but my autometer gauges have a separate lighting circuit that I wired to my interior lighting circuit. Works off the dimmer.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

These do to, but it's an optional step that dims the light on the gauge during the night. Shouldn't the gauge light up when the key's on ignition? My AEM wideband does, as well as my shift light.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Ok, here is the conversation I had with a tech from Glowshift: Does this sound like what I should do?

Hello nathan suttenfield. How may I help you?

nathan suttenfield - I hooked up my electric fuel pressure gauge last night, but when I turn the key to the ignition possition, the gauge does not light up. I checked my wiring multiple times and everything is connected correctly.

I'm running the red wire to a accessory fuse, the green wire to the sender the black ground from the gauge to a ground under the steering column and I'm running a ground to the sender unit. Is the gauge supposed to light up when the key is turned to the ignition possition?

Justin - Yes, this should certainly light up. What series fuel pressure gauge do you have?

nathan suttenfield - The red series digital one.

Justin - I understand.

Would it be possible for you to do a test for me when you had a chance?

nathan suttenfield - Like I said, I checked all the wiring a bunch of times last night and tried multiple fuse outlets, but it never lit up.

I used an "add a fuse" (mini fuse) which I bought from you guys when I ordered the gauge. Any ideas on what's going on?

Justin - I can certainly help you out, how many TOTAL fuses are placed in the add a circuit currently?

nathan suttenfield - I'm at work now, but I could test it out when I get home tonight. What should I do?

Justin - Well before we assist in testing, I would like to know how many total fuses are in the add a circuit. As in the circuit should of came with a small, pink 4 amp fuse.

nathan suttenfield - Only the fuse that came with the add a fuse. There was nothing in that accessory fuse location.

Justin - Dd you add the fuse that you pulled from the fuse panel into the 2nd spot on the add a circuit?

Well this would be your problem.

The fuse that you pulled from the fuse panel, must be placed into the 2nd location on the add a circuit.

With this fuse not being put in, this is not transferring power through the add a circuit t power up our gauge

nathan suttenfield - There was no fuse at all in the accessory location on the fuse pannel where I installed the add a fuse. All I did was plug in the add a fuse and put in the pink fuse

Justin - I do understand, if there was NO fuse in that location, this could be a spare fuse location, whereas there is no power running to this location. You have to pull a fuse from the fuse panel that would be 15 amps or less, and this fuse would be placed into the bare sport on the add a circuit, and then plugged back into the fuse panel with TWO fuses plugged in there. I would recommend going into the radio fuse.

You should not have any problems.

nathan suttenfield - I'm running my wideband right now off the radio fuse. That fuse location is the normal size fuse; the one I have the fuel pressure gauge hooked up to is a mini fuse. I just plugged the add a circut into that spot and placed the fuse that came with the add a circut into the 1st spot on the add a circut.

So you are saying that a second fuse needs to be added to the add a circut for it to work?

Justin - Yes

That is how any add a circuit is designed to work.

8:28 am nathan suttenfield - Would it be possible to splice into the red wire comming from the radio fuse where the wideband is hooked up to to draw power?

Justin - I would not recommend just tying into the red wire, I would recommend using the add a circuit running your wideband, and just cut the power wire that runs into the add a circuit from the wide band gauge and please tie BOTH power wires from the wideband, and your fuel pressure gauge together and run this into the add a circuit.

nathan suttenfield - Ok, I think I understand what you're saying. Let me must make sure though. I need to splice the red power wire from the wideband gauge, tie the fuel pressure gauge red wire into that, which means that both of the red power wires will go to the add a circut I currently have running the wideband, which runs off the radio fuse location.

8:35 am Justin - That would all be correct. Again tapping the red wire from the fuel into the red wire on the add a circuit like you stated should be fine as well, but to be honest I would just recommend tying both power wires from both gauges together, and just make one connection of both gauges to the add a circuit.

jastone

I have LED backlit analog electrical gauges. No lights come on with the key in the on position. The gauges don't light until I turn my lights on. But for my wideband, which is digital there is only one wire for power and the LED numbers. If your gauges are digital they should light with the ignition on.

jastone

Yeah that conversation seemed correct. You need to put the add a fuse in a location that is currently in a spot where ignition power is supplied. The radio is a good spot for sure. There should be two fuses in the add a fuse. The original fuse and the new fuse for the gauge power.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Yeah, what I did was ran the red power wire to the accessory fuse location (mini-fuse) using an add a circut, but the guy at Glowshift said that if there was not already a fuse in that accessory fuse location, then it's not a power source, as in, it doesn't provide any power. Does that make sense? I thought most people used those accessory fuse locations to draw power for their gauges.

I guess I'm just going to splice into the power wire for my wideband and draw power for the fuel pressure gauge off the radio fuse location, which is where I'm getting power for the wideband. You think that will work?

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Correct. The add a fuse that's in the radio fuse spot has the fuse for the radio and the fuse for my wideband. No room for another fuse for the fuel pressure gauge, so I'll just splice into the power wire from the wideband and tie in the power wire for the fuel pressure guage. Then, both wires will lead into the fused location. I guess that will work. I hope so. I really appreciate the help. You're the only one giving me any feedback, so thank you a bunch!!

jastone

I placed the add a fuse in the radio fuse spot. I believe a 15A fuse. The I have an inline fuse block (1 in 3 out) with 5A fuses protecting each gauge. I didn't splice anything, didn't want a weak spot for shorts plus easy to remove if I ever wanted to go back to stock. I guess you could splice into the radio hot but at least make sure you have fused protection for each device or you could potentially damage your gauges, or worse.

jastone

Sorry. Misunderstood you, I thought you were splicing into just the radio fuse. If you already have an add a fuse then you should be okay to run the other two gauge circuits off that fuse. Just make sure you do you individual fuses and be sure they coordinate with one another. i.e. You don't want a 10A inline fuse to the individual gauges with only a 5A fuse in the add a fuse spot. Could potentially damage devices.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Thanks, the fuse I have with the radio fuse in the "add a fuse" is a 30 or 35 amp if I remember right. That should be plenty to protect both the wideband and fuel pressure gauge I would think.

jastone

Yeah but that maybe too big. The fuse should be properly sized for protection. Too big of a fuse and it'll basically act like a solid wire. Fault current would need to be too high to trip the fuse which could cause damage to the circuit. Too small of a fuse and the the fuse will continually overload and open under normal operating function. Of course this isn't too important with what you're doing but nonetheless if you're going to place a fuse in the circuit you might as well place the correct sizes.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Yeah, I guess I should replace that fuse with something smaller.

Would it be acceptable to take the end of the power wire for the wideband and then take the end of the power wire for the fuel pressure gauge, twist/crimp those wires together and then put them in the connector for the add a fuse? Or should I get an electical wire tap and do it that way?

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Also, did you have any leaking of fuel around the adapter piece? Mine is leaking just a tad. I took it all off and put it back on; hand tightened it till it wouldn't get any tighter, but still some leakage. I tested it out by turning the key from off to ignition several times, as that is what the instructions said to do in order to test for leaks.

jastone

You could go to auto zone and see if you could get a small fuse block. Mount it under the dash, run your wires from your gauges to the block, then run one power wire to the add a fuse. Clean and neat, no splices. But I don't 'think' you'd have any issues with properly tiring the two hot leads for the gauges together and then running a wire to the add a fuse.

As far as leaks go. No I didn't have any leaks. And if you do something is wrong. Make sure not to drive it if leaks any at all, for obvious reasons. Did you use any thread sealant with the Metco fitting?

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

I didn't use any thread sealant. The instructions that came with the fitting said to put some sealant on the male end of the sender unit, but I didn't have any handy, so I didn't do that. I'll get some though. When you tightened the fitting to the rail and the sender to the fitting, did you just hand tighten it? I know the instructions say not to over tighten it.

jastone

I honestly don't remember, but knowing me I probably did throw a wrench on it just to be sure.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Just an update. I wired the two power wires from the wideband and fuel pressure gauge and it worked like a charm. Gauge has power. The fitting that connects the sending unit to the fuel rail is still leaking though. I picked up some thread sealant, but I cannot get the adapter fitting to break lose from the sending unit. It screw on and off the fuel rail just fine but it won't unscrew from the sending unit. It's leaking fuel where the sending unit screws into the adapter fitting. Any ideas on why it won't break lose? Once I get it off, I'll add the thread sealant to the male end of the sending unit.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Got the leak fixed. Never could get the fitting lose from the sending unit, but I wrapped the **** out if it with some teflon tape and no leaks at all. Not sure why it was leaking in the first place, but glad it's working now.

Randolph Ziskey

iTrader: (13)

@rise of the phoenix
been reading this thread...if you have a chance and don't mind would you post pics of your setup?