Dynamat Install Question!
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 278
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From: League City, Texas
Dynamat Install Question! Ok so I recently bought 36 sq feet of dynamat to start out with. I have done alot of searching and reading and decided on dynamat because its a proven product.
Since I only have 36 sq feet where are the target areas that "must have" dynamat put on? I eventually will plan on purchasing another 36 sq feet just not right away.
I want to be able to hold a conversation with the people in my car including backseat passengers...
I'm combating a DMH cutout exhaust noise and road noise in general.
Should I start with the doors? If so do I use the dynamat for the inside of the door or the outside of the door?
Also I've heard of the spray on stuff for the inside of the door and then using dynamat for the outside any suggestions?
Besides the doors where else specifically is the best place to put the dynamat?
Thanks
Since I only have 36 sq feet where are the target areas that "must have" dynamat put on? I eventually will plan on purchasing another 36 sq feet just not right away.
I want to be able to hold a conversation with the people in my car including backseat passengers...
I'm combating a DMH cutout exhaust noise and road noise in general.
Should I start with the doors? If so do I use the dynamat for the inside of the door or the outside of the door?
Also I've heard of the spray on stuff for the inside of the door and then using dynamat for the outside any suggestions?
Besides the doors where else specifically is the best place to put the dynamat?
Thanks
If you find out let me know. I have wanted to do that for awhile. I thought I would always start at the back fender wells. if you take out the back speakers in the fender wells. It seems like in my car thats where the most noise comes from is the back. (road noise and rear end)
i did the same thing when i got a cutout. is yours under the rear passenger seat? i doubled up around there, went pretty heavy on the rear wheel well and also i just took the inside door panels off and went right over the clear plastic liner. with the panels back in it sandwiches the sound deadening pretty well. doors make a huge difference. they also don't sound like a bucket of bolts when they close now.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: League City, Texas
After doing a lot more of research I decided that the doors will be done for sure, both inside the door and the outer shell (closest to the passenger seat)
The wheel wells in the back and the sail panel areas will be done as well. The one part I think I may pass on for now is the floor. Suprisingly its not as bad as I thought.
I went ahead and gutted my car of all interior pieces except my driver seat and took it on the highway... The doors for sure leak the most noise... and the sailpanel walls and wheel wells are bad too... The floor didnt seem so bad...
You may ask how I could figure this out but I had a buddy bouncing around the cab moving around to find out where the sound is the worst... Yeah I know it's wasnt a safe idea but you gotta do what you gotta do.
Also as a side note for my setup in particular I decided to ditch my flowmaster cat-back and purchase a stock muffler again to minimize the sound. I will still have the DMH cutout for when I want to be loud like it is now, but when I close the ecutout it will be as quiet as possible... No reason to have a switch that goes from loud to really loud..
I get the dynamat in tomorrow and will try to keep you guys updated.
Thanks for the responses too by the way
The wheel wells in the back and the sail panel areas will be done as well. The one part I think I may pass on for now is the floor. Suprisingly its not as bad as I thought.
I went ahead and gutted my car of all interior pieces except my driver seat and took it on the highway... The doors for sure leak the most noise... and the sailpanel walls and wheel wells are bad too... The floor didnt seem so bad...
You may ask how I could figure this out but I had a buddy bouncing around the cab moving around to find out where the sound is the worst... Yeah I know it's wasnt a safe idea but you gotta do what you gotta do.
Also as a side note for my setup in particular I decided to ditch my flowmaster cat-back and purchase a stock muffler again to minimize the sound. I will still have the DMH cutout for when I want to be loud like it is now, but when I close the ecutout it will be as quiet as possible... No reason to have a switch that goes from loud to really loud..
I get the dynamat in tomorrow and will try to keep you guys updated.
Thanks for the responses too by the way
For me it was the rear seat area around the trans tunnel, behind the rear seat, and the wheel wells. That's what I covered. To be honest I didn't feel a significant reduction in noise was apparent. To really get the effect I think I'd have to cover everything, doors and floor.
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Plan on getting me some dynamat and just doing the doors and in the hatch area.
Just trying to find the best price per/sq ft
My cutouts will be in the y pipe (bought dual low pro dmh), but they wont be open all the time so going to pass on the floor for now
Def. Keep this updated with tons of pics
Just trying to find the best price per/sq ft
My cutouts will be in the y pipe (bought dual low pro dmh), but they wont be open all the time so going to pass on the floor for now
Def. Keep this updated with tons of pics
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Launching!
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: League City, Texas
I bought 36 sq feet and will be getting it today. I'm going to try to do the doors rear wheels and Trans tunnel so I'll let you know how it goes.
I'd imagine it would be close
I'd imagine it would be close
36 sq ft will barely do both doors if you're doing inside and out.
If you want to find what locations need the most Dynamat, just tap on the metal with your finger. The thinner the metal, the more it vibrates, the more mat it needs to reduce vibrations. IIRC, when I did my entire interior, the doors (which are fiberglass but need the mat either way), trans tunnel, and hatch had the thinnest metal.
There are several threads in the Stereo and Electronics forum about this.
If you want to find what locations need the most Dynamat, just tap on the metal with your finger. The thinner the metal, the more it vibrates, the more mat it needs to reduce vibrations. IIRC, when I did my entire interior, the doors (which are fiberglass but need the mat either way), trans tunnel, and hatch had the thinnest metal.
There are several threads in the Stereo and Electronics forum about this.
I used fatmat rattletrap... It was cheaper than dynomat and works as well.. If I remember correctly I bought 100 sq ft.. I still have plenty left over for the doors and what not..
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: League City, Texas
Just a little update:
I managed to complete the Driver side door today in about 6 hours time... I'll be honest im not looking forward to doing the other door due to it just being a pain in the *** with the hard to reach places...BUT there is good news!
After completing the door I took the car for a spin however I didnt put the plastic back on the door. I noticed a little improvement in road noise on the left door but wasnt very happy so I kinda got upset. However I totally reassembled the door and took another spin and I can honestly say it is a major improvement! When I went down the highway I could here the road noise blasting on the right side but nothing on my left... almost felt like I was deaf in my left ear haha!
So I got another door to do this weekend then finishing it off with the trunk and wheel wells and T tunnel!
I managed to complete the Driver side door today in about 6 hours time... I'll be honest im not looking forward to doing the other door due to it just being a pain in the *** with the hard to reach places...BUT there is good news!
After completing the door I took the car for a spin however I didnt put the plastic back on the door. I noticed a little improvement in road noise on the left door but wasnt very happy so I kinda got upset. However I totally reassembled the door and took another spin and I can honestly say it is a major improvement! When I went down the highway I could here the road noise blasting on the right side but nothing on my left... almost felt like I was deaf in my left ear haha!
So I got another door to do this weekend then finishing it off with the trunk and wheel wells and T tunnel!
once you do more you will be more impressed. you would be surprised on what just the factory deadening and plastic does. i havent done this on my camaro, but i did it on my ZR2 blazer, and it is so tight now. i did the roof panel, everthing. inside doors, floors, walls. only took me about 3 days of alot of work, but worth it. my sub hits so hard in there with less power to it now. its unbelievable.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: League City, Texas
once you do more you will be more impressed. you would be surprised on what just the factory deadening and plastic does. i havent done this on my camaro, but i did it on my ZR2 blazer, and it is so tight now. i did the roof panel, everthing. inside doors, floors, walls. only took me about 3 days of alot of work, but worth it. my sub hits so hard in there with less power to it now. its unbelievable.
Yeah if you have a hard-top definitely do the roof panel. I put 2 layers of SS Damplifier on both the left and right side, I would also do inside the sail panels (behind the speakers), trans tunnel, and from under the front seats to the rear seats and the rear quarter panels starting right past the top of the wheel wells.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Feb 3, 2012 at 12:14 PM.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: League City, Texas
Ok so its been a few days since I've posted an update on the install... I've just now finished both doors and I gotta be honest, it has helped reduce noise quite a bit, but now that the doors I can still tell most of the rest of the noise is coming from the backseats to the trunk. I don't have the rest of the Dynamat to finish the rest of the car yet so I have a mini break till I can continue but I will keep you guys posted. My classes are starting to crowd out my time towards this project.
In the rear I'd mainly concentrate on walls in the trunk stump area and qtr panels, also consider going over the trunk stump area from under the car (and floor-pan) with some Cascade VB-1S PRO Quiet Kote Damping Spray. It sticks and works a lot better than using regular undercoating.