Installing Gauge Overlay and LEDs
They are top notch!!!
Hopefully I find time this weekend to install everything.....
Here's mine....
I just have a couple of problems:
My oil gauge doesn't reset when I turn it off. I have to turn the key to run to get it to reset
There is a lot of light around the base of the needles, push'em down further?
The T/A bezel is ballin'
I grabbed the insulation tape and placed it between the bezel and steering column
Everything else is gravy.....
Thanks 6LE Staff, everything is perfect!!
Hopefully I find time this weekend to install everything.....
Here's mine....
I just have a couple of problems:
My oil gauge doesn't reset when I turn it off. I have to turn the key to run to get it to reset
There is a lot of light around the base of the needles, push'em down further?
The T/A bezel is ballin'
I grabbed the insulation tape and placed it between the bezel and steering column
Everything else is gravy.....
Thanks 6LE Staff, everything is perfect!!
Thanks for the write up will be ordering white needles & LED this weekend! Was wondering though what all LED from superbrightleds.com should I exactly get? Kind of confused on that part. Think I read that the cluster is 5 LEDs? When searching for LEDs for our cluster they have many to chose from. Does it matter? Would be nice is someone posted each specific LED to get. Along with like our dash led, steering wheel led, mirror led, & back license plate led? Would appreciate it! 
Thanks for the write up will be ordering white needles & LED this weekend! Was wondering though what all LED from superbrightleds.com should I exactly get? Kind of confused on that part. Think I read that the cluster is 5 LEDs? When searching for LEDs for our cluster they have many to chose from. Does it matter? Would be nice is someone posted each specific LED to get. Along with like our dash led, steering wheel led, mirror led, & back license plate led? Would appreciate it!
http://6litereaterdesigns.com/forum/...11225#msg11225
Here's mine....
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...is/NicePic.jpg
I just have a couple of problems:
My oil gauge doesn't reset when I turn it off. I have to turn the key to run to get it to reset
There is a lot of light around the base of the needles, push'em down further?
The T/A bezel is ballin'
I grabbed the insulation tape and placed it between the bezel and steering column
Everything else is gravy.....
Thanks 6LE Staff, everything is perfect!!
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...is/NicePic.jpg
I just have a couple of problems:
My oil gauge doesn't reset when I turn it off. I have to turn the key to run to get it to reset
There is a lot of light around the base of the needles, push'em down further?
The T/A bezel is ballin'
I grabbed the insulation tape and placed it between the bezel and steering column
Everything else is gravy.....
Thanks 6LE Staff, everything is perfect!!
-My oil pressure gauge doesn't reset either. I can do the same as you to reset it but it isn't hurting anything. When the car's powered up, it works fine. It just doesn't "park" itself all the way down.
- If there is light escaping from the needles, just press them down further onto the shafts (you also have a white face so i'm sure they're reflecting more color than most do). You can feel when you really can't go anymore without really pressing, so just go a little bit further..... but you should re-adjust the needles again just to be safe. Simply pressing them on might knock the placement off a bit. Better safe than sorry.
Here are some pics of our "light escaping" - there hardly is:
So I'm going to get:
5 cool white WLED-xHP6-AC: LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb for the main
2 red WLED-xHP6-AC: LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb for the turn signals
1 warm white WLED-xHP6-AC: LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb for the high beam light
Now which LED do I get for the steering wheel, dash, mirror light, & rear license plate??
Nice writeup.... My speedometer needle doesn't move now. Everything else works ok... any thoughts? I banged it slightly on the column putting it back in. I'm assuming/hoping I can just swap in another needle or see if my needle came loose?
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Here's what mine look like. I got mine done from the guy at the WS6 store Im pretty sure but he said he wasn't gonna do the 200 MPH gauges anymore so I lucked out. I used the cool white bulbs not being sure if the blue in the gauges was a film or not and it turns out it was so it's dark blue as you can see. There's a couple places where the light is kinda dim but it was worse before I changed them so I am very happy with the way it came out. I used the WLED-CW5's as was suggested by a couple guys on here and as usual they didn't steer me wrong. I also did the HVAC lights since they burned out and that was as simple as could be but I had to bust the bulb and reem it out since the bulbs in there refused to budge. I'll post the pics befroe and after with a shot of the car as well. Thanks guys for all the help and paving the way for the rest of us!!
I had the gauges done at Grannitelli (?) motorsports, not sure if they still do it or not.
BadBirdie, the dimmer works great still.
I had the gauges done at Grannitelli (?) motorsports, not sure if they still do it or not.
BadBirdie, the dimmer works great still.
Last edited by sic2001; Jul 27, 2012 at 01:18 AM.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 672
Likes: 3
From: Gadsden, AL
So I had to take off one of my needles today (mph) and now when I drive down the road its accurate. You may wonder why this is an issue, but I have 342s and never got the speedo calibrated with the new rear end from the 273s I used to have. So how would I go about fixing the speedo? Or would I have to wait until after I get the car calibrated first?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 672
Likes: 3
From: Gadsden, AL
Lol I know that. I did the 342 swap like 6 months ago so my speedo has always been a little off. But today I took the speed needle off and now that is inaccurate compared to what it was after I did the rear end swap if that makes any sense at all lol
Last edited by Mr Phil; May 14, 2014 at 06:24 PM.
Gauge Format Here's my LED write up on our 6LE Forums:
http://6litereaterdesigns.com/forum/...11225#msg11225
Darrell,
-My oil pressure gauge doesn't reset either. I can do the same as you to reset it but it isn't hurting anything. When the car's powered up, it works fine. It just doesn't "park" itself all the way down.
- If there is light escaping from the needles, just press them down further onto the shafts (you also have a white face so i'm sure they're reflecting more color than most do). You can feel when you really can't go anymore without really pressing, so just go a little bit further..... but you should re-adjust the needles again just to be safe. Simply pressing them on might knock the placement off a bit. Better safe than sorry.
Here are some pics of our "light escaping" - there hardly is:
http://6litereaterdesigns.com/forum/...11225#msg11225
Darrell,
-My oil pressure gauge doesn't reset either. I can do the same as you to reset it but it isn't hurting anything. When the car's powered up, it works fine. It just doesn't "park" itself all the way down.
- If there is light escaping from the needles, just press them down further onto the shafts (you also have a white face so i'm sure they're reflecting more color than most do). You can feel when you really can't go anymore without really pressing, so just go a little bit further..... but you should re-adjust the needles again just to be safe. Simply pressing them on might knock the placement off a bit. Better safe than sorry.
Here are some pics of our "light escaping" - there hardly is:
Thanks
Here's where I disagree with your procedure. The needles are not held to any particular position when the cluster is disconnected from the harness and ignition is off. If you try to reinstall the needles on the cluster out of the car, you'll get random readings.
The more accurate way to do this is to take pictures of each of your gauges with the ignition in the ON position (not start) when cold (coolant temp at 0). The RPM DOES move to 0 with the car on and not started. Set the coolant needle at 0, set the oil pressure needle at 0, set the voltage around 12 (where you photographed it at) and set the fuel level where you photographed it at. Set the tach needle so when it falls, it goes to 0 and wait for the drive to set the speedometer needle.
Another tip, use medical gloves when you're setting your new needles! OEM gauge faces retain the oils in your hands, making shiny spots. I haven't tested a 6LE gauge with this skin oil issue, because I avoided the issue by using gloves.
Good job on your detailed write up, and that's a nice tip about unscrewing the bezel retainer clips at the bottom!
The more accurate way to do this is to take pictures of each of your gauges with the ignition in the ON position (not start) when cold (coolant temp at 0). The RPM DOES move to 0 with the car on and not started. Set the coolant needle at 0, set the oil pressure needle at 0, set the voltage around 12 (where you photographed it at) and set the fuel level where you photographed it at. Set the tach needle so when it falls, it goes to 0 and wait for the drive to set the speedometer needle.
Another tip, use medical gloves when you're setting your new needles! OEM gauge faces retain the oils in your hands, making shiny spots. I haven't tested a 6LE gauge with this skin oil issue, because I avoided the issue by using gloves.
Good job on your detailed write up, and that's a nice tip about unscrewing the bezel retainer clips at the bottom!
This is what i have been loioking for!
