The Proper Cleaning of the LSx engine bay..
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
I have to second the CD2 cleaner/detailer - I've used it to clean the motor twice now and as long as ur careful around the belts with the detailer (sqeaks are already a problem with LS1 belts, no need to make it worse) it makes the motor shine like crazy!
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, Alabama
i want to thank you guys. if it wasn't for this thread i would have cleaned my engine bay. i thought that you still couldn't get the motor wet. anyways i just spent about a hour on it yesterday and though i would share my results. if you didn't want pics in this thread then you can delete them.
Before
After
Before
After
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
From: Franklin Ky.
Just thought I would add that a small paint brush works really well in getting all of the dirt out of the little cracks and crevaces. Also aluminum polish will do wonders on the a/c drier and hose ends, the brake box thingy that all the lines go into beside the power steering pump and all of the other aluminum lines and finttings. Also waxing all the painted parts; underside of the hood, strut towers, fender edges, brackets, etc. you'll have a show ready enging bay.
It's been mentioned several times, but I don't think there is enough emphasis on this:
Water can (and probably will) get UNDER the intake manifold. The knock sensors are located there and sit in pockets. When water gets in those pockets it has NO PLACE to go except to evaporate. If it doesn't evaporate it will destroy the knock sensors.
If you have a bad knock sensor do a search for the GM TSB on a sort of "fix" for the water problem. If you need any more info on this, PM me and I'll be glad to share (I have pictures, too).
Other than that, cleaning the engine bay is a snap.
Water can (and probably will) get UNDER the intake manifold. The knock sensors are located there and sit in pockets. When water gets in those pockets it has NO PLACE to go except to evaporate. If it doesn't evaporate it will destroy the knock sensors.
If you have a bad knock sensor do a search for the GM TSB on a sort of "fix" for the water problem. If you need any more info on this, PM me and I'll be glad to share (I have pictures, too).
Other than that, cleaning the engine bay is a snap.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
hey, i cleaned my engine with the engine brit and the cd2 stuff. i soaked the engine while washing of the cleaners. i made sure to cover the computer and the wires coming from the computer. now my car is runnig really weird. i also used a leaf blower to dry off the engine. the car was running fine the night i did all this but, the next day it was acting very eratic. tonight the car died on me. i pulled into a parking lot and it died. i tried starting her up and two seconds after it starts up it just dies. i had to get flat beded. could the water have caused this problem and if so, what should i look for to fix these problem?
okay, I think Im gunna try this, the damn car better run after I clean it!!!, PM me your suggestions on what to use to clean it.....its a 2000 and I doubt it has ever been cleaned. Thanks!!!
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Verdad Gallardo On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
okay, i took my car to the dealer, they said my problem was the MAF sensor, they havent changed it yet. if it really is the MAF sensor what i would think is that water got into the air box while i was cleaning and damaged the MAF sensor. does that make sense? will water kill an MAF sensor?
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Dallas TX
I had a little water make mine act funny but once it dried it was fine *shrug*
I will say keep simple green AWAY... far far away!! from your fuse box covers. That stuff will eat the stickers right off the top and then you can't tell what it was. My bottle leaked a little on top of the cover and when I use a towel to DAB it up, not wipe, just blotted, it took the paint with it. And you can't buy just the sticker from GM, you have to buy a whole new lid!!
I will say keep simple green AWAY... far far away!! from your fuse box covers. That stuff will eat the stickers right off the top and then you can't tell what it was. My bottle leaked a little on top of the cover and when I use a towel to DAB it up, not wipe, just blotted, it took the paint with it. And you can't buy just the sticker from GM, you have to buy a whole new lid!!
12 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 345
Likes: 0
From: Brazoria
Originally Posted by Steve1969LS1
Congrats to Fenix.. his post made me realize how much this question comes up (over and over and over) 
So its time for a sticky.. So contribute USEFULL info to the thread.. tips, tricks and such.. posts that dont contribute to the topic will be pruned
What I do..
Remove any parts like FRC's and billet caps, etc (optional)
lightly mist greasy or dirty areas with Simple Green
Loosen heavy areas with a soft bristle brush (toothbrush?)
wash painted areas with car shampoo solution
Rinse with hose
NOTE: Just use common sense.. dont spray high pressure on the MAF, Lid, Coils, PCM and other area.. just rinse them.. DO use high pressure to rinse the block and areas where its obvious water wont do an harm.
I would also (on my engine) pour a gallon or tow of distilled water over the whole deal.. this help with spots on my chromed and polished parts.. but thats just me
Regular guy finish off: Towel dry.. run engine and they towel dry again.. detail to your heart desire...
Advanced finish off: 200mph leaf blower! .. blow that sucker dry and save a lot of time with the towel.. then use compressed air to get all the nooks and crannies dry.. towel off the last drops and detail..
Keep in mind that the engines are designed to be pretty water proof.. we do not have the problems with the Opti that the LT1's had.. just use common sense and remember that even if your not into show, a clean engine is just easier to work on..
So its time for a sticky.. So contribute USEFULL info to the thread.. tips, tricks and such.. posts that dont contribute to the topic will be pruned
What I do..
Remove any parts like FRC's and billet caps, etc (optional)
lightly mist greasy or dirty areas with Simple Green
Loosen heavy areas with a soft bristle brush (toothbrush?)
wash painted areas with car shampoo solution
Rinse with hose
NOTE: Just use common sense.. dont spray high pressure on the MAF, Lid, Coils, PCM and other area.. just rinse them.. DO use high pressure to rinse the block and areas where its obvious water wont do an harm.
I would also (on my engine) pour a gallon or tow of distilled water over the whole deal.. this help with spots on my chromed and polished parts.. but thats just me
Regular guy finish off: Towel dry.. run engine and they towel dry again.. detail to your heart desire...
Advanced finish off: 200mph leaf blower! .. blow that sucker dry and save a lot of time with the towel.. then use compressed air to get all the nooks and crannies dry.. towel off the last drops and detail..
Keep in mind that the engines are designed to be pretty water proof.. we do not have the problems with the Opti that the LT1's had.. just use common sense and remember that even if your not into show, a clean engine is just easier to work on..
Chevy's never need to worked unlike those others that are named after some animal..........LOL
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Chicago Suburbs
Going to give it a shot, I have owned my car over a year and havent cleaned the engine / bay yet. Gonna do before / afters and hopefully it runs afterwords lol. im gonna just do small areas at a time and try not to get anything wet that doesnt need to be (ie: covers and things I can apply cleaner to a towel / rag and wipe off)
Hey guys, I know this thread is mainly for LSx engines but as you can see from my username, I have a 2001 Camaro with a 3.8L V6. Does anybody have any tips or advice on cleaning this engine and engine bay? As far as I know it's never been cleaned and is pretty dirty. Thanks.
Originally Posted by 01CamaroV6
Hey guys, I know this thread is mainly for LSx engines but as you can see from my username, I have a 2001 Camaro with a 3.8L V6. Does anybody have any tips or advice on cleaning this engine and engine bay? As far as I know it's never been cleaned and is pretty dirty. Thanks.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 828
Likes: 0
From: dallas,tx.
Originally Posted by 01ArcticSS
It's been mentioned several times, but I don't think there is enough emphasis on this:
Water can (and probably will) get UNDER the intake manifold. The knock sensors are located there and sit in pockets. When water gets in those pockets it has NO PLACE to go except to evaporate. If it doesn't evaporate it will destroy the knock sensors.
If you have a bad knock sensor do a search for the GM TSB on a sort of "fix" for the water problem. If you need any more info on this, PM me and I'll be glad to share (I have pictures, too).
Other than that, cleaning the engine bay is a snap.
Water can (and probably will) get UNDER the intake manifold. The knock sensors are located there and sit in pockets. When water gets in those pockets it has NO PLACE to go except to evaporate. If it doesn't evaporate it will destroy the knock sensors.
If you have a bad knock sensor do a search for the GM TSB on a sort of "fix" for the water problem. If you need any more info on this, PM me and I'll be glad to share (I have pictures, too).
Other than that, cleaning the engine bay is a snap.
That sucks.
Glad I have a daily driver so I don't have to drive my vette in the rain.
Originally Posted by JackZ28
I've cleaned a couple of my friends' engine bays, because I simply could not look at it without wanting to hit them!
I had one of my new joes spit chew on the side of my car one day.... oh yes had to put some corrective training into play. Just a little cleaning
I cleaned my engine with simple green automotive cleaner. Removed the lid and MAF, taped the TB.
Now about the knock sensors, I just ran it for two hours afterwards, I really don't think any standing water was left.
Now about the knock sensors, I just ran it for two hours afterwards, I really don't think any standing water was left.
Hate to jump in so late on this thread, but a tool that will make things alot simpler for washing under the hood is a bathroom sponge (you know, the frayed sponge on the end of a plastic rod, used to clean in and around the throne). It will go into alot of tight spaces like the firewall or down the fenderwells.
I've always found one very handy.
I've always found one very handy.
Simple green is corrosive. We are not allowed to use it on our aircraft. So I wont use it on the car. just hose down car soap brush dry polish and time and the results will warrant complements.
