Those who did LED swap in stock cluster...
02-15-2013, 07:23 AM
#21
Thanks, but honestly, I don't think it looks as good as the pics make it out to look. The camera kind of blends everything to white when there are color tones in there.
I used superbrightLEDs warm whites. For the sake of discussion, I consider the stock color to be a dirty greenish white. Make no mistake - the warm LEDs I have now look better than stock - but it's now really kind of a dirty light aquaish color instead of the dirty greenish white. It's like....would you rather have it look like a thousand bucks (OEM incandescent), ten thousand bucks (warm white LEDs/stock face) or a hundred thousand bucks (true white color like the picture looks).
The whole project is a slippery slope. I upgraded the cluster...so, then the steering wheel buttons and other buttons looked terrible. I couldn't find good "warm white" LEDs that match the superbrights. The superbrights are in between what most mfgs call "white"/"cool white" and "warm white". The "warm white" component LED bulbs I found were very yellow - matched incandescent lighting very well. Anyway, I put the "white" component LEDS in the switches (which now actually look WHITE - no blue in them, they look AMAZING - I LOVE the switches!!!), and now the dash cluster looks like poo to me.
As a side note too - the Headlight/Dimmer overlay is blue. Very blue. You're basically not going to get the thing to not be blue with upgraded lights. And, you can't "clear" it or the HVAC - the icons, blue filer and black background are all painted on. I know this because I read it, didn't believe it, and wiped all color off mine!
So, I am at the point now where I may try to "clear" the filter off the stock face. I will need cool white LEDs. If the clearing doesn't work, I may end up going the McNord route.
My goal was a <$100 dash LED upgrade. Was supposed to be a quick cheap project. It's looking more and more like a $400-$450 project!
I used superbrightLEDs warm whites. For the sake of discussion, I consider the stock color to be a dirty greenish white. Make no mistake - the warm LEDs I have now look better than stock - but it's now really kind of a dirty light aquaish color instead of the dirty greenish white. It's like....would you rather have it look like a thousand bucks (OEM incandescent), ten thousand bucks (warm white LEDs/stock face) or a hundred thousand bucks (true white color like the picture looks).
The whole project is a slippery slope. I upgraded the cluster...so, then the steering wheel buttons and other buttons looked terrible. I couldn't find good "warm white" LEDs that match the superbrights. The superbrights are in between what most mfgs call "white"/"cool white" and "warm white". The "warm white" component LED bulbs I found were very yellow - matched incandescent lighting very well. Anyway, I put the "white" component LEDS in the switches (which now actually look WHITE - no blue in them, they look AMAZING - I LOVE the switches!!!), and now the dash cluster looks like poo to me.
As a side note too - the Headlight/Dimmer overlay is blue. Very blue. You're basically not going to get the thing to not be blue with upgraded lights. And, you can't "clear" it or the HVAC - the icons, blue filer and black background are all painted on. I know this because I read it, didn't believe it, and wiped all color off mine!
So, I am at the point now where I may try to "clear" the filter off the stock face. I will need cool white LEDs. If the clearing doesn't work, I may end up going the McNord route.
My goal was a <$100 dash LED upgrade. Was supposed to be a quick cheap project. It's looking more and more like a $400-$450 project!
02-15-2013, 07:28 AM
#22
TECH Enthusiast
That's why for me it was just easier to add a blue film to the asr/fog light switches and the steering wheel controls so that everything matches. Plus I like the way the light blue color looks on everything.
02-15-2013, 08:23 AM
#23
stealth - would you mind sharing what you used? I'd be interested in trying that too, even temporarily if it saves me $400 on buying McNord stuff right now. Maybe it'd be enough to keep me content for a while, and sounds like I could just remove the film if/when I am ready to go bright white.
02-15-2013, 09:00 AM
#24
TECH Enthusiast
I have the cool white leds in my gauges, headlight switch and hvac controls which already have the blue film on them from the factory giving that light blue color. As for the steering wheel controls and asr/fog light switch they require you to solder in new leds so I went ahead and got some cool white color component leds. I tried that at first hoping it would match everything else but it didn't so then I went to a local tint shop and got some scrap ricer blue window tint haha and used that on the back of the switches so its basically like the blue film that's on the gauges and now everything matches. Depending what % then window is, you may have to layer it to get the color to match just right.
02-15-2013, 09:45 AM
#25
I have the cool white leds in my gauges, headlight switch and hvac controls which already have the blue film on them from the factory giving that light blue color. As for the steering wheel controls and asr/fog light switch they require you to solder in new leds so I went ahead and got some cool white color component leds. I tried that at first hoping it would match everything else but it didn't so then I went to a local tint shop and got some scrap ricer blue window tint haha and used that on the back of the switches so its basically like the blue film that's on the gauges and now everything matches. Depending what % then window is, you may have to layer it to get the color to match just right.
Good idea on the blue ricer tint...I'll look in to that.
Nice that it's adhesive, and easily reversable. 
02-15-2013, 02:10 PM
#30
The gauge light issue is a 2 sided blade. You can spend money upgrading the stock unit, and you'll be out roughly $65-$100. Then possibly get a new gauge face from us and then be out another $275. And if you elect to change the bulb color again, then you're looking at another $65-$100.
I think it's almost better to wait and figure if you're going to get an after market gauge overlay or not, and possibly save a few bucks, unless you know what you want in the future.
I don't think the stock looks bad with HP6's, but you're stuck with the stock color (which again, is very 90's, but not the worst). There's a ton of work to get the stockers to be "clear" so that LED color shines through them, and then to match all the other components to it. In the end, I just waited and bought all new everything, and couldn't be happier.
I think it's almost better to wait and figure if you're going to get an after market gauge overlay or not, and possibly save a few bucks, unless you know what you want in the future.
I don't think the stock looks bad with HP6's, but you're stuck with the stock color (which again, is very 90's, but not the worst). There's a ton of work to get the stockers to be "clear" so that LED color shines through them, and then to match all the other components to it. In the end, I just waited and bought all new everything, and couldn't be happier.
02-15-2013, 03:19 PM
#31
lol, I have. But for a year I never noticed that the pigtail of the oil pan sensor was slightly ripped and it set off the light. I changed the sensor itself but it never went away. I then bought a new clip and noticed it had torn inside the loom. All fixed now.
It really is weird. And I've converted both Stock and McNord gauges
Yeah, on our site and a few on here too.
http://6litereaterdesigns.com/forum/...hp?topic=806.0
Iis there a step by step on how to do this mod i love the white LED on the stock over lay!http://6litereaterdesigns.com/forum/...hp?topic=806.0
02-15-2013, 03:45 PM
#32
The gauge light issue is a 2 sided blade. You can spend money upgrading the stock unit, and you'll be out roughly $65-$100. Then possibly get a new gauge face from us and then be out another $275. And if you elect to change the bulb color again, then you're looking at another $65-$100.
I think it's almost better to wait and figure if you're going to get an after market gauge overlay or not, and possibly save a few bucks, unless you know what you want in the future.
I don't think the stock looks bad with HP6's, but you're stuck with the stock color (which again, is very 90's, but not the worst). There's a ton of work to get the stockers to be "clear" so that LED color shines through them, and then to match all the other components to it. In the end, I just waited and bought all new everything, and couldn't be happier.
I think it's almost better to wait and figure if you're going to get an after market gauge overlay or not, and possibly save a few bucks, unless you know what you want in the future.
I don't think the stock looks bad with HP6's, but you're stuck with the stock color (which again, is very 90's, but not the worst). There's a ton of work to get the stockers to be "clear" so that LED color shines through them, and then to match all the other components to it. In the end, I just waited and bought all new everything, and couldn't be happier.
02-15-2013, 05:21 PM
#33
The gauge light issue is a 2 sided blade. You can spend money upgrading the stock unit, and you'll be out roughly $65-$100. Then possibly get a new gauge face from us and then be out another $275. And if you elect to change the bulb color again, then you're looking at another $65-$100.
I think it's almost better to wait and figure if you're going to get an after market gauge overlay or not, and possibly save a few bucks, unless you know what you want in the future.
I don't think the stock looks bad with HP6's, but you're stuck with the stock color (which again, is very 90's, but not the worst). There's a ton of work to get the stockers to be "clear" so that LED color shines through them, and then to match all the other components to it. In the end, I just waited and bought all new everything, and couldn't be happier.
I think it's almost better to wait and figure if you're going to get an after market gauge overlay or not, and possibly save a few bucks, unless you know what you want in the future.
I don't think the stock looks bad with HP6's, but you're stuck with the stock color (which again, is very 90's, but not the worst). There's a ton of work to get the stockers to be "clear" so that LED color shines through them, and then to match all the other components to it. In the end, I just waited and bought all new everything, and couldn't be happier.
Also, I cleared a Firebird gauge face just to see how feasible it was. I used some pretty harsh stuff (Goof Off), and while it stripped the color, it also left pinholes for the bright LED lighting to shine through on the gauge background. I think it'd be possible to clear the OEM, but it'd be a PITA, messy, and I don't think I really have the patience for it - I'd get ancy and mess it up. It's still a possibility though - I may try it.
I have a V6 firebird cluster here - I bought it for the bezel and for the odometer (swapped red LEDs to white, kept my stocker a-is just in case). I think I'll swap everything over to that housing and see if I still have the issue. If I do, I have 1 last-ditch effort to fix it.
It didn't cost me $60 for my LED bulbs, and I'm using stock overlays with green LEDs no problem... As long as you stay on the cool color side you're fine (blue, green, purple, etc). Anything warmer though like red, orange, or even just plain white LEDs won't look right with the stock overlay however, you're right.
02-15-2013, 05:29 PM
#34
Sommer - you and Mark seem to be really upfront about your products and their strengths and weaknesses. One of the problems I am having is it's really tough to get a perfect idea of the appearance through pics due to lighting, camera flash, etc. Could you weigh in on the following? These are the concerns I have...
1) Texture/Finish - some of the pics make the faces look really dark black and glossy. I really want these to have the textured matte black finish like stock. How do McNords compare to stock?
2) Hot/Cold spots - the OEM face has white "filter" applied to it to help evenly disburse light. Are there any hot/cold spots with the McNords? It looks like there could be up near the center top, as there are no bulbs where the harness connector is located.
3) Idiot lights - how visible are they during the day? More than stock? How well can you see them during the day when they are illuminated?
4) I also have seen 1 (so I don't take it too seriously) report that the color "washed off" of the HVAC and Headlight overlays. The durability is a mild concern of mine. Can you comment on the durability, and possibly how these are made? Is there some type of protective layer over the printed text?
Overall, I am looking for a very OEM-appearance (in fact, I don't want any coloring on mine).
1) Texture/Finish - some of the pics make the faces look really dark black and glossy. I really want these to have the textured matte black finish like stock. How do McNords compare to stock?
2) Hot/Cold spots - the OEM face has white "filter" applied to it to help evenly disburse light. Are there any hot/cold spots with the McNords? It looks like there could be up near the center top, as there are no bulbs where the harness connector is located.
3) Idiot lights - how visible are they during the day? More than stock? How well can you see them during the day when they are illuminated?
4) I also have seen 1 (so I don't take it too seriously) report that the color "washed off" of the HVAC and Headlight overlays. The durability is a mild concern of mine. Can you comment on the durability, and possibly how these are made? Is there some type of protective layer over the printed text?
Overall, I am looking for a very OEM-appearance (in fact, I don't want any coloring on mine).
03-07-2013, 02:26 PM
#36
FYI -
I converted my stock overlay to white. I can do a writeup once it's back in the car and I get good pics. Right now it has no needles on it or anything.
I did want to respond to this thread in regard to the light bleed issue. I tried everything I could on the front of the white gauge housing - where the housing meets the clear backing of the gauge face. I got no results.
The issue is that the light was bleeding in from between the white housing and the circuit board - the rear of the cluster, not the front like I ASSumed originally. I made a "gasket" with a couple of layers of electrical tape and it's muy bueno now
I converted my stock overlay to white. I can do a writeup once it's back in the car and I get good pics. Right now it has no needles on it or anything.
I did want to respond to this thread in regard to the light bleed issue. I tried everything I could on the front of the white gauge housing - where the housing meets the clear backing of the gauge face. I got no results.
The issue is that the light was bleeding in from between the white housing and the circuit board - the rear of the cluster, not the front like I ASSumed originally. I made a "gasket" with a couple of layers of electrical tape and it's muy bueno now
