First time paint correction questions
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2012
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First time paint correction questions I just bought myself a flex to correct the paint on my 2000 TA, it has a decent amount of swirls and some small scratches (I'm sure a good amount of swirls I did myself... damn it!)
I think I'm ok on the flat panels (hood etc, although what about the center where the two bump outs go back in?) but when coming to an corner where the hood transitions to the fender, is there a trick to doing this? I know the PC is safer, but it vibrates too much for my liking and I like that the Flex works much faster.
I've been reading a lot about burning into edges, is this more sharp edges or the hood/fender transition edge? I don't want my paint to look worse after I correct it.
Last, the rear black panel w/ the TA logo, what's best to use when polishing that? I have mostly Adam's products, fyi
Thanks
I think I'm ok on the flat panels (hood etc, although what about the center where the two bump outs go back in?) but when coming to an corner where the hood transitions to the fender, is there a trick to doing this? I know the PC is safer, but it vibrates too much for my liking and I like that the Flex works much faster.
I've been reading a lot about burning into edges, is this more sharp edges or the hood/fender transition edge? I don't want my paint to look worse after I correct it.
Last, the rear black panel w/ the TA logo, what's best to use when polishing that? I have mostly Adam's products, fyi
Thanks
Notice the pad @ 6:00.....
Look again @ 7:20 RED PAINT ON THE PAD
And this guy charges $700-900 for "Light" paint correction
Point: you absolutely can burn paint with the Flex.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 169
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Also, how do I manuever around the corners of the car? Do I just maintain the pad as flat as possible? I'm not going to do any sharp edges at all (i'd rather it look a little crappy then see metal!)
And for what it's worth, GoFast, I've read a good portion of your detailer thread.... Great stuff, appreciate you taking the time for us new guys.
Thanks
Ok, so what do I need to do so I don't burn up my paint? I'm using Adam's products, which I believe aren't that aggressive. If I keep the pad moving and don't let it heat up, should I be ok? Anything to look out for? I'm going to check the pad to make sure it doesn't change color. (Fyi the cars white)
Also, how do I manuever around the corners of the car? Do I just maintain the pad as flat as possible? I'm not going to do any sharp edges at all (i'd rather it look a little crappy then see metal!)
And for what it's worth, GoFast, I've read a good portion of your detailer thread.... Great stuff, appreciate you taking the time for us new guys.
Thanks
Also, how do I manuever around the corners of the car? Do I just maintain the pad as flat as possible? I'm not going to do any sharp edges at all (i'd rather it look a little crappy then see metal!)
And for what it's worth, GoFast, I've read a good portion of your detailer thread.... Great stuff, appreciate you taking the time for us new guys.
Thanks
Its the machine and the method more than the products. Skip the Flex, its not worth the cost, for that money you might as well get the Rupes 21 (best one available). But entry level polishers like the PCXP, Griot's 6" DA, and HD 6" DA are all good machines.
Tape off edges and take your time with it. These will not generate much heat anyway. Keep the pad flat, and keep it moving. Just articulate the machine around the curves.
Thanks for the kind words.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 169
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Its the machine and the method more than the products. Skip the Flex, its not worth the cost, for that money you might as well get the Rupes 21 (best one available). But entry level polishers like the PCXP, Griot's 6" DA, and HD 6" DA are all good machines.
Tape off edges and take your time with it. These will not generate much heat anyway. Keep the pad flat, and keep it moving. Just articulate the machine around the curves.
Thanks for the kind words.
Tape off edges and take your time with it. These will not generate much heat anyway. Keep the pad flat, and keep it moving. Just articulate the machine around the curves.
Thanks for the kind words.
So it sounds like I should be ok as long as I'm careful and keep it moving. Any other important tips? I'm eager for my first paint correction but am actually a bit nervous....
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 3
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From: Walker Co. Alabama
What helped me to learn was the CD that's free from Adam's that shows how to use all their products and also the videos available on the detailing site; autogeek.com.
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GoFast908Z is the resident expert by far. I would just add that you don't HAVE to have the FLEX turned all the way up. As long as the pad is spinning (It's a FLEX, it will be) you are capable of removing defects. You don't have to have the machine running flat out. Like GoFast said, take your time.
And post finished pics!!!
And post finished pics!!!
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Douchebag On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 4
From: Indianapolis, IN
If nothing else, once you have done the big flat areas, you can peel up the tape on the edges and just do a little hand polishing. A few extra hours and a sore arm would be worth it to me as a detailing noob.
