how do you keep a black car clean!!!???
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
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From: kansas city,mo
ok, i got a 01 ta thats black. the paint is far from show quality but can look good. i dont know if there is a buildup of wax or what but everytime i wash it the first time around the block the quarters behind the tires look like i went down a gravel road! is there anything to do about that other than changing colors!?
Last edited by jt_2002_ta; Jun 29, 2014 at 04:32 PM.
I don't know if it's just me, but I'm really confused as to what you are trying to say here. Can you rephrase your question?
Let the car DRY COMPLETELY before "taking it around the block" also remember just because a road is paved doesn't mean the road is clean and free of dirt and debris that the tires WILL kick up on a car.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
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From: kansas city,mo
I understand the whole let it dry thing and dirt will kick up on paint, just wondering if I should strip all the old wax that is probably helping the dirt adhere to the surface.
And was wondering if there is a product for black cars to help?
And was wondering if there is a product for black cars to help?
Look into the Adams products. that's what I use, it's alil more expensive but the stuff works, I use a couple other products from other companies but Adams is what I use most.
I'm unsure as to what your saying is happening but it sounds like you need to clay bar it and either use a buffer or hand buff it to get all the imperfections out of the paint and put some new wax or sealant on it.
When was the last time you waxed or paint corrected? I don't think the wax is "soft" and having particles sticking to it. It's just one of the things of having a black vehicle. Just make sure you have a good wax/sealant combo behind your wheels and after a drive you can grab a detail spray or waterless wash and wipe down when you get to a cruise or show or something.
I'm unsure as to what your saying is happening but it sounds like you need to clay bar it and either use a buffer or hand buff it to get all the imperfections out of the paint and put some new wax or sealant on it.
When was the last time you waxed or paint corrected? I don't think the wax is "soft" and having particles sticking to it. It's just one of the things of having a black vehicle. Just make sure you have a good wax/sealant combo behind your wheels and after a drive you can grab a detail spray or waterless wash and wipe down when you get to a cruise or show or something.
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Here's a good "how to" for OCD car washing. There are several plugs for a specific product, but the process is fantastic. The "hydrate" could be replaced with a spray wax product of your choice.
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You need to wash with Dawn so it will strip off all the old wax and buildup. Then clay bar it so you can see what kind of condition the paint is really in. From there, you can either get a dual action porter cable and do the Adams two stage paint correction. You can not screw up your paint doing this. Watch some videos on YouTube to learn how. After that, use a good wax or glaze to finish it off with. I did this on my WS6 a few years ago (was my first time) and it turned out perfect. You will thank yourself once it's all done.
The problem is not the wax. Or changing it to a different product.
You have a car with a plastic bumper that generates a static field, and has terrible underbody airflow creating a turbulent area around the rear bumper.
The only "solutions" would be products that help reduce static and keep the paint cleaner longer. Zaino is good against static (Z2pro and Z5pro). Also CQuartz and Opti-Coat work well.
That being said...........................none of these will prevent what you're experiencing. But they should help limit it some.
You have a car with a plastic bumper that generates a static field, and has terrible underbody airflow creating a turbulent area around the rear bumper.
The only "solutions" would be products that help reduce static and keep the paint cleaner longer. Zaino is good against static (Z2pro and Z5pro). Also CQuartz and Opti-Coat work well.
That being said...........................none of these will prevent what you're experiencing. But they should help limit it some.
12 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2012
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the above couple links have good info ive read them all over the years, alot of the techniques work great. as far as keeping a black car Clean, wash, dry, cover in garage, dont drive it lol.
if your like me and insist upon driving it lol, wash every 2 days
if your like me and insist upon driving it lol, wash every 2 days
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 57
Likes: 1
From: Massachusetts
Black is a lifestyle. Take it from me, I just stopped daily driving my black G8 all year round in New England for 4 years. Your technique and upkeep are the most important things. Not crazy expensive, "boutique" car care products. Especially when there are other products out there that work as good, if not better than them, but for MUCH less money...
Car dusters are okay if you use them right. Don't lay it down on the car....you want to just use the very ends of the fabric. Then every now and then wash it separate and don't use any fabric softener or dryer sheets.
I would not bother using one of these. They can induce scratches if not used properly. If they are not cleaned properly then all they do is drag dirt around the paint causing scratches.
I would either stick with a quick detailer for light dust or a rinseless/waterless wash for moderate to heavy dirt.
I agree with investing in a DA. Well worth the money. Dawn can remove wax but it does not always remove sealants (synthetic waxes). If you are going to polish then the polish will remove it.
Adam's makes good products. If you can not afford it then look into Meguiar's ultimate compound and ultimate polish. They are available locally.
This is true. These contain fillers to fill in the swirls and scratches in the car. They will return once the wax has seen it's end of life.
Well put.
As stated some black waxes contain fillers that fill in the swirls and scratches. They will start to show once the wax see's it's end of life. Meguiar's black wax is not one of them. It is a cleaner wax that contains more polishing oils but does a good job of cleaning the paint. The white wax offers more cleaning capability.
I would either stick with a quick detailer for light dust or a rinseless/waterless wash for moderate to heavy dirt.
You need to wash with Dawn so it will strip off all the old wax and buildup. Then clay bar it so you can see what kind of condition the paint is really in. From there, you can either get a dual action porter cable and do the Adams two stage paint correction. You can not screw up your paint doing this. Watch some videos on YouTube to learn how. After that, use a good wax or glaze to finish it off with. I did this on my WS6 a few years ago (was my first time) and it turned out perfect. You will thank yourself once it's all done.
Black is a lifestyle. Take it from me, I just stopped daily driving my black G8 all year round in New England for 4 years. Your technique and upkeep are the most important things. Not crazy expensive, "boutique" car care products. Especially when there are other products out there that work as good, if not better than them, but for MUCH less money...
As stated some black waxes contain fillers that fill in the swirls and scratches. They will start to show once the wax see's it's end of life. Meguiar's black wax is not one of them. It is a cleaner wax that contains more polishing oils but does a good job of cleaning the paint. The white wax offers more cleaning capability.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 338
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From: kansas city,mo
Is a DA the only way to achieve decent results using these products? I know everyone recommends the porter cable but can a harbor freight special get the job done? I saw one for like 39.99 that had 6 speeds