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What to use to replace metal wire connecting seat rails?
Hi All, I will try to get a photo tomorrow when there is light. I discovered why my passenger seat would not move foreword or backward. The seat latch was working and springs all felt firm. I pulled the seat out hoping it was a coin in the track or something easy but found the metal spring wire that connects the outboard rail to the handle that releases the seat latch has snapped off where it bends back on itself. The spring wire that is used to prevent it from slipping off is still there too. It looks like the wire snapped at the first kink. I see there are 2 holes in the latch (one closer to the handle and one closer to the rail. I don't know which the wire is to connect to but, first I need a replacement. As this is a cheap part I am sure nobody makes/sells them. Could I use more flexible wire, like bailing wire, or even small diameter cable to fix this? As long as it doesn't stretch or get tangled in anything else it should be fine right? I guess with non spring wire the trick is to keep the wire from slipping when the latch handle pulls on it.
I think I need a pic to see what you mean although my first thought is throttle cable / e-brake cable / bicycle brake cable, but then you said it folded back on itself so I got lost.
I found this pic on ebay via google image search. Is that small cable that goes between the two rails what you mean? If so, you probably could find something like it at Home Depot or Lowes.
Got some photos after moving the family hauler out of the way. @VIP1 , the wire in the photo you posted looks flexible/slack. Looks to be connected in to the closest hole on the handle, which I might be able to bend the existing wire to fit unless it breaks.
The majority of the wire connected to the outboard seat rail.
What I could find in the carpet after pulling the seat out, pulled the plastic piece off and spring prevented the wire from coming off.
Reference to wire thickness and stiffness. I think this is 24 gauge spring steel?
The 2 holes on the seat adjustment handle. Finding a reference has been hard to tell which hole this is supposed to fit into. Given the length and the where the end broke I guess it went in the most forward hole?
Well never let it be said a good deed goes un-rewarded, or something like that. Went with the wife to Hobby Lobby during a lunch break and found what I thought would be perfect for the seat wire replacement! For a whopping $2 (plus tax) I got 3 hobby metal wires, .047 Music Wire 3 pieces #5502 from Precision metals. They were 1 inch too short but for eyeballing from memory I think I did pretty darn good. Using some needle noise plyers and heat shrink I made a close enough replica with the exact same internal dimensions and repurposed the OEM springs as retainer clips! Used the original as a template and centered the new wire then began bending into the shape. Installation was easy with the exception of one of the ends didn't want to be retained by the spring but it went in. I kinked the ends just enough to catch the end of the springs and keep it from sliding. I doubt I will be able to beat a $2.12 fix for anything else on this car!
Making the template
Applying the bents to the inside diameter to ensure proper length
Original, template, new with retention springs
Heat shrink in place
After using the heat gun, the heat shrink should protect the wire from the seat's sharp edges, if not I have 2 more wires!
Installed, given the size the second hole was the only one that would fit
And done, cross off fixing the passenger seat not able to move forward/backward!
I could have used picture hanging wire or any braided wire really BUT, that would be slack and more likely to catch on stuff or get stretchy over time. As I found the broken end and being the 4th owner this must have happened recently, this solution should last 15 years at least. Looking at the plastic used to protect the wires it was all chewed up. Heat shrinks isn't stronger and most likely a less durable solution but the original was too ratty and worn to be used. If anyone runs into this I hope this helps them out with a solution for something that if searched for on eBay would be way more than $2. In total it took me 15-20 minutes start to finish, including time for the heat gun to get hot enough for the shrink wrap.
If you wanted thick solid wire, would a metal coat hanger have worked?
Coat hangers were too thick, the thinner wire is also "flexible" where the thicker gauge wire would most likely bind I believe. Bending the wire and getting it into holes would be challenging as well. I have picture hanging kits and looked at the fine cable wire in the kit and keeping it secured at the length and not slipping in length would be more complicated and require a way to crimp the cable to prevent slip, possibly using automotive wiring butt splices or connectors would work but the possibility of it pulling apart is higher.
09-20-2020, 10:34 PM
What to use to replace metal wire connecting seat rails? 
