Quick release setup, 13" wheel with 3 buttons on the wheel. Transbrake, bump, line lock.
5 bolt wheel but with a 6 bolt quick release hub, using a 6 to 5 hole conversion spacer.
I wanted to run this specific wheel, with these types of button holders, and it's only offered in a 5 bolt setup and I wanted to use an NRG quick release hub.
Single coiled wire instead of 3 different coiled wire/button combos costing $50-$60 each. This method simplifies the wiring and is less expensive.
There are several documented installs of aftermarket steering wheels, so the basics will not be covered here but I will mention a few things I noticed during the install that may help others.

Parts used:

Motion Edition Grant Race Street Race Steering Wheel - 1075-BLK (similar to SUM-772600 which is back ordered for months)
Grant SS Horn Button 5649 - Summit
Kuuleyn Short Hub Adapter (SRK-170H knock off) - Amazon
NRG Innovations SRK-200BK Quick Release hub gen 2.0 - Amazon
Flashpower 0.5" Steering Wheel Hub Adapter Conversion Spacer ‎6978B - Amazon
Digi-key 4 wire coiled conductor 18awg 1939-1739-ND / SSS1582F1SSSP(R) - Kind of thick, not as flexible, suggest using CC284 from ProwireUSA instead
APIELE 16MM Momentary Push Button Switch Mushroom Head - red, green and silver - Amazon
Summit Racing™ Steering Wheel Button Bracket SUM-890152 - Summit
Summit Racing™ Steering Wheel Button Bracket SUM-890154 - Summit
Metri-Pack 150 Series 4-Way Connector - Amazon
2.2 Ohm resistor - Amazon
NOS solid state relay for transbrake 15620NOS

Videos I used for the install:

Special tools used:
Steering wheel lock plate removal tool OEMTOOLS 25134 from Autozone
Steering wheel puller 67011 - O'reily rental

Tips
-The lock plate cannot be removed with the 67011 tool. Use the 25124 from Autozone. The thread is m4x1.5
-The 60177 comes with 5 different threaded bolts. Use the 5/16" x 18"
-For proper clockspring and radio control removal, use the first video linked above.
-You must disconnect a few plugs under the dash in order to have proper clearance to remove the clock spring wiring and radio controls as seen in the video.
-Used clock springs with the wiring uncut fetch good money these days, so I advise properly removing it rather than just cutting.
-A Mini Pick and Hook Set (I picked up a cheap one from Harbor Freight) works great for removing the locking plate ring.
-Mark the center of the column with tape prior to removing the factory wheel, which will make it easier to line up the new hub.
-Tap into the horn wire under the dash, and snake it up through the column. This will connect to the yellow wire on the NRG hub to allow for horn activiation.
-Feed the wire through the column as pictured below
-Prior to installing the locking plate, you must remove the piece of plastic shown below as it will interfere with proper clearance of the 5 bolt adapter.
-When you install the locking plate, I advise that you remove the pin that activates the horn as it can easily ground on the lock plate when you install it all back together, causing the horn to be on constantly.
-The factory bolt to hold the NRG hub should be torqued to 32 ft/lbs
-I recommend using blue Locktite on all the bolts that come with the aftermarket hub and adapter plates
-For the Digi-key 4 wire coiled conductor, you will connect 1 of the wires to all 3 switches. The remaining 3 wires on the coiled cord go to each of the switches.
-I recommend using long heat shrink tubing for wiring up the switches to the coiled cord and soldering all the connections.










I used a metripack connector so that the coiled wire can easily disconnect from the other wires which will go to relays.




Omit the plastic horn plate mechanism pictured below which is located under the locking plate. It will interfere with the NRG hub not allowing it to be in the properly clocked position when using a 5 bolt steering wheel.
Using a 6 bolt steering wheel, this plastic part doesn't need to be removed.





This is the part pictured below to omit.





Lock plate removal





The black wire under the dash gets tapped for horn activation. When this wire is grounded, the horn will activate. Run this wire up through the column.





The factory black horn wire can be seen in the image below behind the plastic piece that resides behind the lock plate. Removal is explained in the video.
Do not splice into the black factory horn wire in this location, use the location under the dash as indicated above.





I routed the wire through this hole. I recommend removing the pin shown below. Since you omitted the plastic piece above, it causes the locking plate to make contact with it.
If it contacts the locking plate when installed, it will cause the horn to go off constantly.





Route the wire that you tapped into under the dash through this hole in the locking plate:





The top hole of the NRG hub should face north, and be centered.





Black ground wire that comes on the NRG hub will connect to the NRG black ground wire that is attached to the 6 bolt plate that mounts on top of the part pictured below.
The new wire that you fed through the column will be attached to the NRG yellow wire seen in the image below. Wrap with electrical tape so that the connection doesn't make contact with the hub.





Wire fed through the NRG hub pictured below. Top hole on the hub centered north.





The 5 bolt to 6 bolt adapter that goes behind this piece only goes on one way. The NRG logo of the part pictured below will be in the north position also. ​​





Don't forget to wire in the 2.2 ohm resistor (hidden under the heat shrink tubing in the picture below) to the clock spring wiring under the dash.










Wheel mounted centered. Horn button works. The new wheel does sit 1 inch closer towards the seat compared to the factory wheel. I took measurements before and after.