Found Cool New LED Tailight Bulb
From:
http://autolumination.com/3157_3156.htm
and run about $20 each. Has anyone tried these?
Or what about these:
They have 6 leds around the edge. They are $13ea.
Also, has anyone found any 562 replacement leds for the cargo lights? Maybe the tabs can be bent to hold a festoon bulb like the map lights.
I already found some 212's for the map lights here:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/1157.htm
scroll down to the 44mm festoon bulbs.
I also noticed they had some 90* amber and clear 1157's for the front DRLs. I figure you could aim them to the rear and it would make the reflector light up big time. Or aim them to the front for a circular shaped light. Not too bad at $16ea.
They also have some inverted dome 194 bulbs in white or colors.
for $1.49ea.
If anyone has tried these or has some comments, please post them, I would like to change out my bulbs and would like some user feedback.
autoillumination or superbrightleds
Were the mirror lights brighter or the same as the stock lights?
Were they better overall?
LS1_SS, are these yours?
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...654_7_full.jpg
That single row design blew me away and is what made me get back into designing some new tail lights. I originally planned on making some custom ones using bulbs, but the LEDs open a lot of new ideas.
Did you end up making them full of LEDs or did you stick with the single row design?
Was it a single row at full brightness for running lights and a 2nd or 3rd row for brakes, all at the same brightness?
If you changed it to filling it up with LEDs, why? Did it look better?
Last edited by JasonWW; Oct 26, 2005 at 08:07 AM.
So if you were to add some tinted covers, like the AVS blackouts, would they still be visible day and night?
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autoillumination or superbrightleds
Were the mirror lights brighter or the same as the stock lights?
Were they better overall?
LS1_SS, are these yours?
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...654_7_full.jpg
That single row design blew me away and is what made me get back into designing some new tail lights. I originally planned on making some custom ones using bulbs, but the LEDs open a lot of new ideas.
Did you end up making them full of LEDs or did you stick with the single row design?
Was it a single row at full brightness for running lights and a 2nd or 3rd row for brakes, all at the same brightness?
If you changed it to filling it up with LEDs, why? Did it look better?
-Nathan
What mcd led would you suggest to help the light get through the smoked covers?
Oh yea, a general question for you guys. Does the factory dimming still work when you close the door and wait 15 or so seconds? Or do the LED's turn off abrubtly as the voltage drops?
Making a row of LEDs in the 3rd brake light shouldn't be difficult. Just use bright red LEDS behind the red lens.
I'm considering making the rear lens clear with a row of red LEDs and putting the backup lights in there and maybe a rear view camera as well.
If that wasn't enough, I might mount a GPS reciver as well as a XM antenna in the rear wing near the brake light. That's going to be one busy area.
I'm considering making the rear lens clear with a row of red LEDs and putting the backup lights in there and maybe a rear view camera as well.
If that wasn't enough, I might mount a GPS reciver as well as a XM antenna in the rear wing near the brake light. That's going to be one busy area.
Regular Lexan with a protective anti-scratch layer should work just fine. Clear LED's that light up red would work very well even with a few coats of Niteshades.
I just fabbed and painted a filler panel a few days ago and plan to silicone it on top of the factory brake light to make it flush and appear almost none existant from the top. Once the paint cures and I attach it, I'll post up some pics. Makes it look real nice.
There are a lot of LED tutorials around here if anyone is interested. Use some wire taps on one of the bulb connector to supply power. You can wire a whole row is series and then use a resistor to limit the load. I forget the specifics. I remember that a single 3v red led usually needs a 220ohm resistor to make it work on 12 volts, but I haven't messed with this stuff in a while. You could probably take 20 LEDs, wire then in series and then hit them with 14v and see how bright it gets. If you are using a 3v LED, wire a couple of AA batterries to it to see what it should look like whne properly volted. If 20 is fairly dim, reduce it by a few until it gets about as bright as it should be. Don't try and squeeze more brightness out of the string by continuing to remove LEDs as that will stress it and cause it to be unreliable. The string my even get 15volt surges so make sure and give it some extra room for that.
If you use bright LEDs the 3rd brake light should be even brighter than the stock unit.
Once you take the brake light out (2 T15 torx screws) use a saw to cut off the rear half hidden inside the wing. Silicone or hot glue the LEDs to a piece of plastic or wood or something to hold them straight and then glue the piece down inside of the lens. Glue the rear half you cut off earlier and seal it up around the seams. Plug the 2 sockets in to keep moisture out and there you go.
The hardest part of the whole thing is probably finding some bright LEDs that have a fairly wide angle of output. You can get a second 3rd brake light housing from a scrap yard if you don't want to cut your original up.
http://members.misty.com/don/ledx.html
You can make a 3rd brake light board kind of like this but space them closer.
Last edited by JasonWW; Oct 26, 2005 at 08:10 AM.
i use the tower leds and i think they work great. just keep in mind you have to switch out the OEM flasher, for an electronic one.







