Paste or liquid wax?
Actually, the Zaino works just fine, but I like over-kill and wasting money
The yellowing effect is due to the other components of the mixture, as well as, in some cases, type of carnuba. There are many types of carnuba (depending on the species of the tree it came from). Using a good quality high carnuba content wax will probably not cause a yellowing effect.
My source for this information is my father who was a bodyman and painter for 40 years, and while this may be a weak source to some of you, he was the only person he'd ever heard of who was a GM Master Tech in Painting (not Mechanic), and if you ever had the priveledge to see one of his paint jobs you'd agree he was a master of his profession. If this isn't good enough, just study polymer bonding.
Country Boy - didn't mean to hijack this thread. Like I said before - use what you like. The one you're using is among the better waxes which allow the paint to breathe, as well as providing excellent protection.
Last edited by 2002BlackSS; Feb 11, 2005 at 07:12 PM.

Case in point: You always hear when purchasing a car cover, that you should purchase a cover that allows the car to breathe, referring to the paint.
That is, if you intend on having the cover on for an extended period of time.
Take a house for example, in that the wood needs to breathe. Metal/composites and wood are porous materials that can absorb impurities, moisture, and the like. What happens to a house that is totally insulated from the inside? After a few years, mold will build up b/c no air can circulate. Eventually, the painted surface will permanently absorb these impurities w/o the ability to breathe.
Hope this explains it.
Last edited by Firehawk526; Feb 11, 2005 at 08:41 PM.
In fact, it is in many ways more healthy for the paint to have no wax or polish on it at all, though it then would have no protection from contaminates or the sun. Those, and of course, the nice mirror-like shine, are the reasons for waxing.
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IMO, once paint is cured, it needs to be protected at all times.
I have never had a proven theory teach me otherwise.
Last edited by 2002BlackSS; Feb 11, 2005 at 10:36 PM.
Anything that doesn't allow the paint to breathe, or is unneccessarily abrasive, or which may actively cause damage. While I do not have an extensive list because I don't feel the need to research bad products. Basically low quality waxes, polishes, compounds. This can also be inapproriate use of good quality products. Since we were talking about potectants, though I don't want to have people jumping on my back if they happen to like them, I'd think twice about using a turtle product. While you may or may not agree about this example, generally speaking, the answer to what is the "wrong" stuff is supposed to be obvious, given the context.
Yet again, though we have managed to segway from the original post. Sorry Country Boy, though I think your question may have already been answered somewhere back there.
EDIT: Actually, it can be difficult to know which products are potentially harmful, at least initially. If you do about 5 mins research into a given product though, you can usually get a good idea of how it works and people's experience over time. A better example would be NuFinish - the stuff advertized years ago to make the water bead off a junkyard car. I don't want to get into a brand war, though. Most of the stuff used by people on this site is good, and has been used for years with no ill effects.
Last edited by 2002BlackSS; Feb 12, 2005 at 07:17 AM.


