Appearance & Detailing Interior & Exterior Appearance Modifications

Paste or liquid wax?

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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 06:24 PM
  #41  
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theres a 26 in a paste version, then theres 16 in a paste version. Ive read that statement about carnubas yellowing paint finishes and i didnt buy it. It seems like everytime i clean my car and top it with carnuba it gets wetter not yellow. I dont know where it comes in about wax build up... im sure the wax is gonna wear off eventually.
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 06:31 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 6']['9
theres a 26 in a paste version, then theres 16 in a paste version. Ive read that statement about carnubas yellowing paint finishes and i didnt buy it. It seems like everytime i clean my car and top it with carnuba it gets wetter not yellow. I dont know where it comes in about wax build up... im sure the wax is gonna wear off eventually.
At work, so couldn't remember, but 26 sounds right, and is supposed to be strictly a canuba wax w/o yellowing properties. I haven't noticed a build-up, but w/Pewter, it is difficult to tell. Just a security blanket so that dirt buildup under the bra doesn't damage my finish. So far, so good.

Actually, the Zaino works just fine, but I like over-kill and wasting money
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 07:06 PM
  #43  
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The polymer based waxes (at least cheaper ones) have a tendancy to keep everything from getting to your paint. While this provides better protection temporarily than a carnuba based wax, it also chokes the paint. Paint - no matter how old it is - needs to breathe, or it's rate of decay is actually enhanced. Many advances have been made to improve the breathability of polymer based waxes, which is why many people prefer higher quality polymer waxes and polishes, though I prefer to stick with carnuba.

The yellowing effect is due to the other components of the mixture, as well as, in some cases, type of carnuba. There are many types of carnuba (depending on the species of the tree it came from). Using a good quality high carnuba content wax will probably not cause a yellowing effect.

My source for this information is my father who was a bodyman and painter for 40 years, and while this may be a weak source to some of you, he was the only person he'd ever heard of who was a GM Master Tech in Painting (not Mechanic), and if you ever had the priveledge to see one of his paint jobs you'd agree he was a master of his profession. If this isn't good enough, just study polymer bonding.

Country Boy - didn't mean to hijack this thread. Like I said before - use what you like. The one you're using is among the better waxes which allow the paint to breathe, as well as providing excellent protection.

Last edited by 2002BlackSS; Feb 11, 2005 at 07:12 PM.
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 07:23 PM
  #44  
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Exactly what does paint do when it is breathing?
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 07:25 PM
  #45  
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i thought you only needed to worry about breathing paint was after its been painted. I dont think it breathes all the time
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 6']['9
i thought you only needed to worry about breathing paint was after its been painted. I dont think it breathes all the time
I believe that is an accurate statement: Yes, very important due to the curing process of new paint. But equally important over the life of the paint/clear coat.

Case in point: You always hear when purchasing a car cover, that you should purchase a cover that allows the car to breathe, referring to the paint.
That is, if you intend on having the cover on for an extended period of time.

Take a house for example, in that the wood needs to breathe. Metal/composites and wood are porous materials that can absorb impurities, moisture, and the like. What happens to a house that is totally insulated from the inside? After a few years, mold will build up b/c no air can circulate. Eventually, the painted surface will permanently absorb these impurities w/o the ability to breathe.

Hope this explains it.

Last edited by Firehawk526; Feb 11, 2005 at 08:41 PM.
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 09:17 PM
  #47  
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Interesting information in this thread that I haven't come across before... Thanks.
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 09:21 PM
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Firehawk526 - Exactly.
In fact, it is in many ways more healthy for the paint to have no wax or polish on it at all, though it then would have no protection from contaminates or the sun. Those, and of course, the nice mirror-like shine, are the reasons for waxing.
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 09:44 PM
  #49  
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Without constant protection, your paint is subjected to oxidation, pollution, UV, etc., etc. No protection makes your paint unhealthy.

IMO, once paint is cured, it needs to be protected at all times.

I have never had a proven theory teach me otherwise.
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 10:29 PM
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contaminates or the sun. Those, and of course, the nice mirror-like shine, are the reasons for waxing.
Without constant protection, your paint is subjected to oxidation, pollution, UV, etc., etc. No protection makes your paint unhealthy.
Thanks for restating what I said. Of course you have to protect it. What you should understand from what I was saying is that putting the wrong thing on your paint can actually do harm.

Last edited by 2002BlackSS; Feb 11, 2005 at 10:36 PM.
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 10:38 PM
  #51  
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You had just finished saying that it's more healthy for paint to have nothing on it. Figure out what you are trying to say.

So tell me what "wrong" things are.
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 10:45 PM
  #52  
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I feel there is no more need for me to continue this. I may not have many years, but I know when I'm in a close minded discussion, and I don't plan on defending everything I say - especially when it's obvious. I don't claim to have all the answers in life - or even all the answers about paint. I could answer your question, but you still wouldn't be satisfied.
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 11:52 PM
  #53  
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I was really interested in what you were trying to say, but I guess I was too close-minded to understand it.

What do you feel are wrong things for the paint?

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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 12:55 AM
  #54  
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Sorry, I guess I interpreted your wording different than you intended, and I probably shouldn't have added the "wrong stuff" comment in the first place.

Anything that doesn't allow the paint to breathe, or is unneccessarily abrasive, or which may actively cause damage. While I do not have an extensive list because I don't feel the need to research bad products. Basically low quality waxes, polishes, compounds. This can also be inapproriate use of good quality products. Since we were talking about potectants, though I don't want to have people jumping on my back if they happen to like them, I'd think twice about using a turtle product. While you may or may not agree about this example, generally speaking, the answer to what is the "wrong" stuff is supposed to be obvious, given the context.

Yet again, though we have managed to segway from the original post. Sorry Country Boy, though I think your question may have already been answered somewhere back there.

EDIT: Actually, it can be difficult to know which products are potentially harmful, at least initially. If you do about 5 mins research into a given product though, you can usually get a good idea of how it works and people's experience over time. A better example would be NuFinish - the stuff advertized years ago to make the water bead off a junkyard car. I don't want to get into a brand war, though. Most of the stuff used by people on this site is good, and has been used for years with no ill effects.

Last edited by 2002BlackSS; Feb 12, 2005 at 07:17 AM.
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