Finally! CF Interior corvette pieces done
#21
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Still waiting for an oppurtunity to get some good installed pics in the daylight. Stay tunned, they will follow ASAP.
Whenever you're ready ![Thumb](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/thumb.gif)
Yes- you are correct. It is carbon fiber laid over the stock pieces
Originally Posted by 01 Red WS6
Chad is going to do my interior next he just doesn't know it yet... WEll I guess now he does ![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
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Originally Posted by BitViper
Looks like it was laid onto stock pices
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BitViper
Looks like it was laid onto stock pices
Yes- you are correct. It is carbon fiber laid over the stock pieces
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Yea, got that.........would you tell us the process if you can......I've cut out and laid it also with the epoxy and it's messy.......any tips, tricks?....did you use a mold?, vacume mold?....a step by step would be very helpful since I have a center console that I would like to do and make it turn out as nice as yours did.
Originally Posted by BitViper
Looks like it was laid onto stock pices
Yes- you are correct. It is carbon fiber laid over the stock pieces
__________________
Yea, got that.........would you tell us the process if you can......I've cut out and laid it also with the epoxy and it's messy.......any tips, tricks?....did you use a mold?, vacume mold?....a step by step would be very helpful since I have a center console that I would like to do and make it turn out as nice as yours did.
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Looks GREAT!.......write up!, write up!.......the brake pad covers are outstanding along with the A-Piller piece, very creative......now dammit, we need a write up!!!!......
#32
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Okay, I don't have time to do a very detailed write up with pictures and such at this moment, but here are the basic steps:
1) Uninstall piece and remove anything attached to it (ie: locking device, or cig lighter- pretty much everything but the piece itself)
2) Size the piece by laying CF over it and cut the CF a little big to give yourself some extra material on all sides.
3) Sand the part with very course sandpaper like about 80 grit. Sand it in all sorts of directions not all the same way. You need to scratch the hell out of all the surface area- optimum for the CF to stick to.
4) Spray the part with some spray adhesive.
5) CAREFULLY drape the CF over the part. This is about the hardest step because this is where you will mess up the weave on the CF if you don't have very much practice. And the more complex the surface and curvy- the harder it is. Its not too bad for flat pieces tho. Now press it down tightly by going over it with your hand and make sure all the surface is smooth against your part.
6) If you minorly messed up any weave from step 5- go over the whole piece with a toothpick and straighten up any areas as best as you can.
7) Cut all excess from around the edges leaving only about 1~2" on all sides hanging over.
8) Apply a VERY thick first coat of resin. I use disposable brushes for the resin application. Theres no getting the brush clean and reusable once the resin dries on. So just get some disposable ones and save yourself the time and trouble. You may be able to spray it on if you have a paint gun that can handle it, but the resin is really thick stuff and I wouldn't want to mess up my spray gun trying. If anyone is successful with a gun, tell me what kind you used and where you got it!
9) Apply 2nd coat of resin. Wait at least 20 minutes after the first coat is applied. You can leave it sit really tho for any amount of time. Sometimes I only have time to do a layer a day. Its no problem to let it sit over a night or few.
10) Apply 3rd coat of resin after at least 15-20 minutes (optional) I like to apply a 3rd coat, but it may not be necessary- however, it gives you more room to sand in the end and better safe than sorry.
11) Apply final layer with surfacing wax added in. Again- after about 15 minutes of the previous coat.
12) Let it set until its completely dry (usually until next day).
13) Use a dremmel to cut the excess off around the edges. Then cut out any holes or open areas.
14) Sand the whole part with 220 grit until the surface is all smoothe and there are no dips or "fisheyes" in it. This is the most time consuming part and you may spend several hours on 1 part depending on size. So have LOTS of 220.
15) Sand part with progressing stages up to at least about 1500 grit. I usually go from the 220 to 320wet- 400wet- 600wet- 800wet- 1500wet- 2000wet- 2400wet- 3600wet- 4000wet- 6000wet. I probably go overboard and completely overkill. I'm sure it would look just as good up to 1500 or 2000.
16) Spray part with automotive clearcoat. (I usually do 2 coats, but 1 would probably do fine)
17) Wet sand part again (optional)
18) Reinstall all little accessories onto the part and re-install part.
Good luck. I'll try to take pictures of the steps next time I do a part. Like anything else- this takes lots of practice to get good at. So don't just jump right in and do parts from your car. Because odds are you're going to scrap some pieces when you first start out.
1) Uninstall piece and remove anything attached to it (ie: locking device, or cig lighter- pretty much everything but the piece itself)
2) Size the piece by laying CF over it and cut the CF a little big to give yourself some extra material on all sides.
3) Sand the part with very course sandpaper like about 80 grit. Sand it in all sorts of directions not all the same way. You need to scratch the hell out of all the surface area- optimum for the CF to stick to.
4) Spray the part with some spray adhesive.
5) CAREFULLY drape the CF over the part. This is about the hardest step because this is where you will mess up the weave on the CF if you don't have very much practice. And the more complex the surface and curvy- the harder it is. Its not too bad for flat pieces tho. Now press it down tightly by going over it with your hand and make sure all the surface is smooth against your part.
6) If you minorly messed up any weave from step 5- go over the whole piece with a toothpick and straighten up any areas as best as you can.
7) Cut all excess from around the edges leaving only about 1~2" on all sides hanging over.
8) Apply a VERY thick first coat of resin. I use disposable brushes for the resin application. Theres no getting the brush clean and reusable once the resin dries on. So just get some disposable ones and save yourself the time and trouble. You may be able to spray it on if you have a paint gun that can handle it, but the resin is really thick stuff and I wouldn't want to mess up my spray gun trying. If anyone is successful with a gun, tell me what kind you used and where you got it!
9) Apply 2nd coat of resin. Wait at least 20 minutes after the first coat is applied. You can leave it sit really tho for any amount of time. Sometimes I only have time to do a layer a day. Its no problem to let it sit over a night or few.
10) Apply 3rd coat of resin after at least 15-20 minutes (optional) I like to apply a 3rd coat, but it may not be necessary- however, it gives you more room to sand in the end and better safe than sorry.
11) Apply final layer with surfacing wax added in. Again- after about 15 minutes of the previous coat.
12) Let it set until its completely dry (usually until next day).
13) Use a dremmel to cut the excess off around the edges. Then cut out any holes or open areas.
14) Sand the whole part with 220 grit until the surface is all smoothe and there are no dips or "fisheyes" in it. This is the most time consuming part and you may spend several hours on 1 part depending on size. So have LOTS of 220.
15) Sand part with progressing stages up to at least about 1500 grit. I usually go from the 220 to 320wet- 400wet- 600wet- 800wet- 1500wet- 2000wet- 2400wet- 3600wet- 4000wet- 6000wet. I probably go overboard and completely overkill. I'm sure it would look just as good up to 1500 or 2000.
16) Spray part with automotive clearcoat. (I usually do 2 coats, but 1 would probably do fine)
17) Wet sand part again (optional)
18) Reinstall all little accessories onto the part and re-install part.
Good luck. I'll try to take pictures of the steps next time I do a part. Like anything else- this takes lots of practice to get good at. So don't just jump right in and do parts from your car. Because odds are you're going to scrap some pieces when you first start out.
Last edited by ChevyChadZ28; 02-26-2005 at 10:57 AM.
#33
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Originally Posted by Phoenix57
sweet, looks like its well on the way. the center console lid needs something done
#34
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Thanks for the write up......the spray adhesive is a point that makes more sense, I just used the resin on the part to hold down the CF before applying more on top........
What is "sanding wax' though?......haven't heard of that......
and could you use a plastic polish instead of the clear coat on top of the piece?........
What is "sanding wax' though?......haven't heard of that......
and could you use a plastic polish instead of the clear coat on top of the piece?........
#36
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Originally Posted by Blu Beast
Thanks for the write up......the spray adhesive is a point that makes more sense, I just used the resin on the part to hold down the CF before applying more on top........
What is "sanding wax' though?......haven't heard of that......
and could you use a plastic polish instead of the clear coat on top of the piece?........
What is "sanding wax' though?......haven't heard of that......
and could you use a plastic polish instead of the clear coat on top of the piece?........
Sorry- should have said surfacing wax. Anyways, its pretty much just liquid wax that you mix in with your final resin layer that makes the top coat easy to start to sand once its dry.
I don't know about the plastic polish. I wouldn't think so, but you can try. Let me know if you do- I'd like to see the results.
#40
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Originally Posted by BitViper
Thanks for the write up.... what "weight " CF did you use for you guys looking for some place to buy..I was recomended this place
Carbon Fiber
Carbon Fiber
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