Hawk312

iTrader: (8)

I am planning to wet-sand and buff my car. I didn`t see anything in the FAQ about using the PC polisher with coarse compounds, though I see several of the pads are good for "cutting". The PC is an orbital polisher (according to the FAQ) but I thought you needed to use a rotarty for coarse compounds.
Can this polisher be used with compound after wet-sanding with 2000 grit?

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

I'm confused... Are you polishing metal or paint? ~Joshua

ZaneO

The rotary is best suited for compounding after wetsanding. It could be done with the PC, but it's going to be much harder and take much longer.

Have you wetsanded before? It's not really a job for a novice.

fast377

iTrader: (52)

After wet sanding, you buff using a rubbing compound with the corresponding pad. Then buff again with a polishing compound with the corresponding pad. Then if you want, you can get a hand glaze and work that in like wax. I use a makita variable speed 8" polisher/grinder.

parbreak

iTrader: (17)

Rotary is going to be your best bet for removing wet sanding marks, however, there is a MUCH great chance of "burning" through the paint with a rotary than the PC. If you go the rotary route, tape off all edges and any transistion point in the metal, that is bends or creases. Clearcoat is really thin at these points and it will burn.

Bryan
parbreak

Hawk312

iTrader: (8)

I have a little experience wetsanding:




And since I think you guys might appreciate it, here are a couple in 1/12 scale, but rubbed out by hand with 3 grades of compound:





The reason I was asking about the PC is because I keep hearing so much about it. I guess I`ll just stick with rotary.
Also, how are you guys burning through the paint? Are you doing this at the top of the fenders or other sharp edges? I would imagine it would take a long time to burn through a flat panel with a moderat compound.

69huggerZ

iTrader: (1)

Off topic.

Those are some huge leaves! Nice models. The Z28 looks very realistic but I'm kinda partial .