Taking care of my new paint?
After that, its all in your budget. Meguiars, Zaino, Klasse all work. Meguiars is probably the most readilly available as far as OTC stuff goes.
Wash Mitts - Eurow genuine sheepskin mitt or a 100% cotton wash mitt.
Car Wash Soap - some popular ones are Eagle One Wet wash, Meguiar's NXT soap or Gold Class soap, Mother's California Gold, 1Z Perls shampoo, Zaino Z7, and Wolfgang auto bathe.
Drying - Waffle Weave microfiber towels, California Water Blade (use with caution), and 100% white cotton towels, made in USA.
Washing, Drying, and Waxing Tips
- Never use circular motions. Always wash, dry, and wax using front to back and top to bottom motions.
- Don't use the same mitt or bucket for wheels that you use on your paint. The brake dust, etc. from your wheels will cause scratches and swirls in your paint.
- Use two buckets for washing paint. One with a soapy mixture, the other with plain water to rinse the mitt between panels.
Caring for Mitts and Towels
- Wash on the Hot/Cold setting
- Use Liquid Detergent only w/ no bleach and NO fabric softener
- Add distilled white vinegar to the rinse cycle for added softness and soil release
- Rinse twice
- Dry towels on low heat w/ no fabric sheets
Every time I've had re-paint done the paints been a little "soft" for awhile. After that I'd say just keep it as clean as possible (no auto washes) for the first month, then get a good wax/sealant on that sucker as soon as possible. The idea is getting good wax/sealant in place before the paint has a chance to get any swirls or problems from daily exposure.
If I had new paint I'd probably go for zaino. As it stands my paint was old and crappy so I used Sonus products with Megs NXT as the final wax.
"thats a old myth, only true with really shitty paint, You can do what ever the **** you wan't to this **** once you get it back "
Its all PPG ****, im gonna go look over at their website, see what I can find, thanks guys!
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"thats a old myth, only true with really shitty paint, You can do what ever the **** you wan't to this **** once you get it back "
Its all PPG ****, im gonna go look over at their website, see what I can find, thanks guys!
I recently asked him why and basicly he said: The reducer in automotive paint takes about a month to fully dry/cure or "fully evaporate" from the paint. if you wax it and seal it off from the air, spots will develope as the reducer is trying to escape and is sealed in by the wax.
Listen to the pros
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This would be the best advice. Altho, if this IS your painter telling you that...leave Maaco and head to a better shop. Any painter who tells you that is a dumbass and is just wanting you to FUBAR their job so you can come back and spend more $$$.
When the time comes to redo the black paint on my Firehawk, it's going to sit in a dark garage for 90 days before I wash or add wax. (overkill yes, but that's what the $9k paint job guy said when he did my grandfather's $60,000 1957 Chevy Bel-Air project.) I trust his opinion, He's one of the best.
Zaino had very good tips, especially the clean mitt, and no circular motions ever.
Also, most people skimp on the amount of soap they put in a bucket, I get the water very thick with soap and sudds and add a bit more when I add water to the bucket. Lots of soap really helps.
Last edited by FIREHAWK#608; Apr 19, 2006 at 02:53 AM.
IDK if the people he painted the cars for waxed them right away or not, but I know I will not, better safe than sorry
So walmart sheepskin mit, and 100% cotton to dry. How about Terry cloth? j/w
IDK if the people he painted the cars for waxed them right away or not, but I know I will not, better safe than sorry
So walmart sheepskin mit, and 100% cotton to dry. How about Terry cloth? j/w




