SOM Painted Intake & Coil Packs "Installed"
05-12-2006 | 09:08 PM
#81
I can't totally understand how the EVAP line connects to the "return" fuel line. Does it really just snap on like it does on the fuel rail? How does the line that goes by the cap connect.
If I saw pics of everything unassembled, I know I would totally get it.
Did you extend the wires or was there enough length after rerouting?
Looks like a good mod to do.
This is one of those cases for me, that "a picture is worth a thousand words".
If I saw pics of everything unassembled, I know I would totally get it.
Did you extend the wires or was there enough length after rerouting?
Looks like a good mod to do.
This is one of those cases for me, that "a picture is worth a thousand words".
05-12-2006 | 09:53 PM
#82
Let's see...
The EVAP line connects to the factory hard line in the same manner as it connects to the solenoid...it just "snaps" on. After you remove the heat tape, you will see that there is a hard plastic line (encased in rubber) that runs from the steel line to the solenoid...the schrader valve is "heat crimped" in, near the intake. Basically, I just split the plastic line and removed it from one side of the valve, leaving the shortest piece with the 90-degree fitting still attached as illustrated here:
When you are done cutting, you should retain only the piece shown between the green arrows here:
Then, take this piece and attach the 90-degree elbow to the steel hard line (connect yellow X's in pic above) and tuck the schrader valve into the gap between the ABS unit and fenderwell...the connections will rotate, so play with the alignment until you are satisfied with the fit. Then, use rubber fuel line to run from the schrader valve to the hidden solenoid and from the solenoid to the intake. (Note: The schrader valve is barbed, making it easy to connect the rubber line.)
Note: This method if used if you want to retain the schrader valve...if not, then just use rubber fuel line to make all of the connections and discard the factory plastic lines and valve. For both methods, you need to splice in extentions to the 2 wires connected to the solenoid.
The EVAP line connects to the factory hard line in the same manner as it connects to the solenoid...it just "snaps" on. After you remove the heat tape, you will see that there is a hard plastic line (encased in rubber) that runs from the steel line to the solenoid...the schrader valve is "heat crimped" in, near the intake. Basically, I just split the plastic line and removed it from one side of the valve, leaving the shortest piece with the 90-degree fitting still attached as illustrated here:
When you are done cutting, you should retain only the piece shown between the green arrows here:
Then, take this piece and attach the 90-degree elbow to the steel hard line (connect yellow X's in pic above) and tuck the schrader valve into the gap between the ABS unit and fenderwell...the connections will rotate, so play with the alignment until you are satisfied with the fit. Then, use rubber fuel line to run from the schrader valve to the hidden solenoid and from the solenoid to the intake. (Note: The schrader valve is barbed, making it easy to connect the rubber line.)
Note: This method if used if you want to retain the schrader valve...if not, then just use rubber fuel line to make all of the connections and discard the factory plastic lines and valve. For both methods, you need to splice in extentions to the 2 wires connected to the solenoid.
I would give you a trophy too! 
