SmokeySS

iTrader: (7)

This is the top of my rear spoiler, spiderwebs enhanced more than you can see in the sun with my camera flash. What I want to know is will I be better off using IP then FP or can I use just FP?

I have a Porter DA buffer but I'll need more pads when it comes time to polish.

The reason I ask is not because of the cost of buying both, but I really don't want to erode the clearcoat at all if I don't have to. So, will FP do away with this?

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

Looks to me like you'll need the IP as well as the FP
Try it with just the FP (you may have to do it multiple times), if it works great, if not then get the IP and an orange sonus pad (or whatever the equivalent is in your prefered brand)

SmokeySS

iTrader: (7)

I'm bumping.

WADDISME

iTrader: (4)

It is best to start light and work your way down to the more abrasive stuff if you need it. With the porter cable, it is a slow process for deep scratches and swirls, and you will need multiple attempts for even moderate scratches. It truly is a labor of love that is worth it.

SmokeySS

iTrader: (7)

Well I wanna be clear on this because I am reading about the product and it says it is an abrasive compound and will get out 2000 grit sanding. I don't want to be harsher than necessary. So is the single picture not enough to tell? If it's not I will take more pictures.

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

It's best to go with the least abrasive product first, so try the FP, you may need to go over the paint a couple of times.
It's abrasive, but the abrasive breaks down with the action of the PC (it will stay together long enough to get out the swirls)

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

Based on the pic I would definitely start with IP and a yellow or orange pad. You need to really crank the speed up to 4.5 or 5 to make it work. Don't worry about the clearcoat; GM paint is known for being very hard, so you will be fine.