PC and Menzerna get here tomorrow!!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,001
Likes: 0
From: Sugarland Texas
PC and Menzerna get here tomorrow!!! Man Im ready to detail. Here is what my plans are.
Wash (meguires deep crystal wash)
Clay (Meguires)
Menzerna Intensive w/ Orange pad
Menzerna Final w/ White Pad
Meguires #26 Hi Tech yellow Wax
I will get some pics when I'm all done, anything I should change or does that look pretty good?
Wash (meguires deep crystal wash)
Clay (Meguires)
Menzerna Intensive w/ Orange pad
Menzerna Final w/ White Pad
Meguires #26 Hi Tech yellow Wax
I will get some pics when I'm all done, anything I should change or does that look pretty good?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,001
Likes: 0
From: Sugarland Texas
Yea I know. My car is pretty mint as is. 1999 with 44k miles and constantly waxed/polished. But now Im ready to really get it PERFECT. Is it gonna take multiple coats of the Menzerna stuff to get the results I want, or will one nice slow/proper coat be enough?
looking forward to seeing pictures of the results .. remember to do before and afters if you can..
take your time, and do it right.. you will enjoy it ..
also in case no one mentioned it .. don't cross contaminate your pads .. 1 product, 1 pad ..
have fun!
take your time, and do it right.. you will enjoy it ..
also in case no one mentioned it .. don't cross contaminate your pads .. 1 product, 1 pad ..
have fun!
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,001
Likes: 0
From: Sugarland Texas
Thanks guys, but it looks like it might be a rainy weekend, Im still gonna pull it in the garage and play with the hood/fenders, I dont have the pateince to wait, hehe.
Be prepared to go yellow pad and harsher compound 3M #39002 or even 3M #39001. I started on my red TA with orange pad and Megiars Step 1 Paint cleaner. Still left scratches and swirls. Went ot orange pad and Menzerna IP. Same result. Went to orange pad and 3M #39002. Removed 80% of scratches and swirls. Finally went to yellow pad and 3M #39001 compound. Still have a few scratches but I will work on them as time goes on. My car has only 20K mi and is garage kept, but somehow those scracthes were there. They were probably from when I didn't know how to wash a car correctly. You might need to experiment with different pad and compound combos, but be patient. It is well worth the effort. Here is a quick pic of mine after compounding, polishing, glazing/sealing, 2 coats of Meguiars Liquid Gold Class. And yes, I can't stop posting these pics - [IMG]
[/IMG]
Have fun!!!
[/IMG] Have fun!!!
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Originally Posted by INMY01TA
I've read its better to start less aggressive like with the white pad, then use the orange if you need to.
as a general rule, you always want to start with the least agressive method possible to get the job done .. that includes both pads and products. just make sure you are using a combination that will work, without creating more work ..
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,001
Likes: 0
From: Sugarland Texas
Ok ive been messing with my hood and fenders. I have gotten some decent results, but some swirls still remain. I did 2 passes with the intensive and one with the final polish, it looks really good and cut down on some swirls, but if you look deep there are still some scuffs/swirls in the finish. I toped it off with gold class and it feels smooth as silk. But like I said it is not perfect. I also had a few basic questions, how much pressure am I supposed to apply? I am using it on 5/6, is this correct? How do I reduce the damn white powder everywhere, lol? How do i clean these foam pads? Thanks for all your help.
TECH Addict
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,374
Likes: 0
From: Amarillo, Texas
You should be using moderate pressure - just enough so you don't stop the orbiting motion.
Speed 5-6 is right. To cut down on dusting, spray your pad with distilled water every few passes and stop working the polish right before it begins to dust.
When you're finished using the pads, wash them under warm/hot running water with a little Dawn.
Speed 5-6 is right. To cut down on dusting, spray your pad with distilled water every few passes and stop working the polish right before it begins to dust.
When you're finished using the pads, wash them under warm/hot running water with a little Dawn.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,001
Likes: 0
From: Sugarland Texas
Originally Posted by ZaneO
You should be using moderate pressure - just enough so you don't stop the orbiting motion.
Speed 5-6 is right. To cut down on dusting, spray your pad with distilled water every few passes and stop working the polish right before it begins to dust.
When you're finished using the pads, wash them under warm/hot running water with a little Dawn.
Speed 5-6 is right. To cut down on dusting, spray your pad with distilled water every few passes and stop working the polish right before it begins to dust.
When you're finished using the pads, wash them under warm/hot running water with a little Dawn.
Don't be afraid of the pc. I have tried my best to damage the paint on the Fiero. I don't know how you could. I used the 3M fine cut, speed at 6 (better have some gloves on because it vibrates), and a lot of pressure. Still didn't make it thru the clear coat. I started soft on the TA because I thought it wouldn't need much, but the deep swirls and scratches take alot. Don't be discouraged, it just takes time and it really is worth it. And keep in mind, there are some scratches that the PC can't get out.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,001
Likes: 0
From: Sugarland Texas
Well i finished up for tonight. I did the front clip of the car and am not sure about the results yet, under my garage lights and outdoor spotlight there are still plenty of swirls, altough alot seem to have gone away. I spent plenty of time and pressure with the orange pad and intensive polish. I am gonna wait till I can see it under direct sunlight before I judge my results. But I dont see what more I could really do, in some places I made up to 4 long nice passes with the intensive, if the swirls didnt come out with that much use im not sure if is worth it to keep trying, lol. Also, has anybody ever notice how the GM black paint looks to have major overspray under bright light? There are tons of tiny speckles, it's kinda weird.
around 15 pounds of pressure is a pretty good target for removing swirls ..
to get a feel of how hard to push, take your pc, and grab a bathroom scale, then push down on the scale with the pc, to get a feel for the pressure .. (no need for the pc to be on to do this)
it can take several passes, depending on how bad the paint was, prior to your starting .. and even though the PC is pretty easy to use, and hard to screw up .. it does take some time to master it, so don't expect perfect results the first night ..
as for the white powder, the water will help, but also be careful not to dry buff .. you can cause micro marring by doing that.
I clean my pads in the kitchen sink, using warm water, a little Dawn Ultra, and gently agitate them with a dish brush.. then I take them outside, attach them to the PC, set the speed on 5.5 - 6, and hold it down in a 5 gal bucket and turn it on to spin the water out, then bring them back inside to finish air drying.
to get a feel of how hard to push, take your pc, and grab a bathroom scale, then push down on the scale with the pc, to get a feel for the pressure .. (no need for the pc to be on to do this)
it can take several passes, depending on how bad the paint was, prior to your starting .. and even though the PC is pretty easy to use, and hard to screw up .. it does take some time to master it, so don't expect perfect results the first night ..
as for the white powder, the water will help, but also be careful not to dry buff .. you can cause micro marring by doing that.
I clean my pads in the kitchen sink, using warm water, a little Dawn Ultra, and gently agitate them with a dish brush.. then I take them outside, attach them to the PC, set the speed on 5.5 - 6, and hold it down in a 5 gal bucket and turn it on to spin the water out, then bring them back inside to finish air drying.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,001
Likes: 0
From: Sugarland Texas
I dont really expect 7 year old black paint to ever look 100% prefect under bright halogen lights, so well see how it looks tomorrow in the sun, thats the real test for me. U think I might need the more abrasive pad (yellow?)
Well, I can't miss an opportunity to ***** out a pic of my black '93 coupe. Although I didn't have my Porter Cable when I had my '93 (always waxed by hand), I always used Mirror Glaze #9 and #26. This pic was taken in '03 just before I sold it. I had it for ten years, 135k on the clock and the car never spent a day in a garage. Not bad, huh? 
So, keep the faith man, you can make that Black paint deep enough to drown in.
So, keep the faith man, you can make that Black paint deep enough to drown in.