Appearance & Detailing Interior & Exterior Appearance Modifications
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: DashLynx

Crap I Fudged Up Help On Int Painting

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-26-2006, 01:24 AM
  #1  
Launching!
Thread Starter
 
laxmad16's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Crap I Fudged Up Help On Int Painting

ok well i tried interior painting. i did they sanding primer and then paint and clear on the passenger side door handel. the small part where the switches looks ok and same with the lock piece but i f-ed up the big part so i guess il have to sand all over.....


is painting int pieces a good idea or do they ruin easily?

also does anyone know where i can pick up some new door handel pieces pm me.....
Old 08-26-2006, 04:16 AM
  #2  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
 
luckyou03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 1,105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

You can always resand anything. Prep, prep, prep, clean then paint
Old 08-26-2006, 05:34 PM
  #3  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (27)
 
SVT THIS's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Owasso, Ok
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

I've been in your shoes several times. I never thought I could sand, paint, resand so many times. Here's my final interior paint prep advice. If you follow it, you'll have a show quality finish.

Things needed:
-1.Sandpaper in 60, 120, 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000 and 1500, 2000 and 2500 grits and possibly plexiglass/clear plastic polish
-2.Bulldog Plastic Adhesion Promoter (There are other brands, but spend the extra cash on this one)
-3.Rust-Oleum Automobile Primer, gray in color(I used Duplicolor high build, and this primer sands MUCH easier)
-4.paint brand/color of your choice. This is what it comes down to. I used Krylon Fusion, Duplicolor interior paint, Duplicolor exterior paint, Rust-Oleum automotive paint, Rust-Oleum enamel and Rust-Oleum high performance gloss enamel and none of them got me the finish I wanted. I finally went to O'reilys and had them mix me up a quart of Dupont exterior automotive paint. This is the same stuff body shops use for repaints, etc. They can put it in a spray can for you, but I would reccommend using/renting a paint gun.
-5.Clear coat, again, brand of your choice. But I would get the same Dupont clear coat.
-6.rubbing alcohol (bottle or swabs)
-7.lots of paper towels, terry cloths, etc.
-8.safe place to paint, like a big garage (I painted outside and always got grass and bugs on my paint)

Ok, now for the actual painting process.

Step one:
Piece removal/initial prep. Remove piece to be painted, clean with rubbing alcohol. You might as well use the alcohol to clean the place on the car's interior where the piece used to be. Sand piece with 60 grit sand paper, clean thoroughly with rubbing alcohol. Let dry for 5 minutes.

Step two:
Adhesion. Spray a light coat of Bulldog Adhesion promoter onto piece. 10 minutes later, spray another, heavier coat. Let dry for 15 minutes. Clean thoroughly with rubbing alcohol. You may go to 3 coats if you feel the need, but I had no problems.

Step 3:
Primer. Spray a light coat of primer on the promoter. 15 minutes later, wipe off with rubbing alcohol. Add another, heavier coat. Let dry for 15 min, then wipe with rubbing alcohol. Continue this process until you no longer see the roughness of the plastic underneath. The primer will NOT be smooth due to the texture of the plastic, but after 4-5 coats you should be fine.

Step 4:
Sanding. This is where you make or break the paintjob. Let the primer dry for at least 24 hours before sanding. Then, sand with 120 grit. I would do this fairly well to get all the bumps, grooves and imperfections out of the primer. Next, 220 over the whole surface. Repeat this process with 400, 600, 800 and I went up to 1000 ( I wetsanded with 800 and 1000, you could stop at 600 probably, but I am a perfectionist). Do not go to the next grit until you have removed all the imperfections meant for that grit to remove. When finished sanding, it should feel like smooth plastic or fiberglass. Make sure there are no fine lines or anything in the primer coat that would show through the paint. Thoroughly clean with rubbing alcohol.

Step 5:
Painting. Again, this step must be done very carefully for the desired effect. The first coat should be very light. Just enough to grab onto the primer. The primer should still be seen through the first coat. Let dry 15 minutes (or reccommend drying time of paint you use). Clean with rubbing alcohol. Continue coats in light, even sprays until you have full coverage. Do not rush this. Let dry for full time between coats and clean with rubbing alcohol each time. Any oils, dirt, or residue on the paint between coats could ruin the entire finished product. Make sure the coats are evenly sprayed. I have seen many people get runs because they try to fill in the cupholder or an edge all in one coat. Not gonna happen. Take your time and it will look great.

Step 6:
Wetsanding. Let the paint dry for at least 24 hours before wetsanding. Clean the surface with rubbing alcohol. Any debris or residue on the piece will get sanded into the finished product and will look bad. Start with WET 1000 grit. This is the one I used the most. Many of the imperfections are going to be rid of with the 1000 grit and the 1500 and 2000 grit will only help to polish it. Make sure you go over the entire surface. You do not have to go evenly, feel free to focus on areas that need it more than others, just be sure to blend it all evenly. Between grits, wipe off with wet wash cloth, let dry, then wipe with rubbing alcohol. After 2000 grit, clean with alochol and let dry for several hours.

Step 7:
Clearcoat. This is important for the paint's finish longevity. It will help prevent scratching, sun damage, spill damage, color fading, etc. I use Dupont auto clear coat, you can use duplicolor. Clean surface with rubbing alcohol and when dry apply first coat of clear. Be very light, just like with the colored paint. Follow the same dry, clean, spray process as with the color. Feel free to add as many as you want. I think I actually ended up doing 6 or 7 clearcoats on top of 5 coats of color. Like I said, I'm a perfectionist.

Step 8:
Final wetsand. Follow the same process as with the color paint but use the 2500 grit sandpaper to finish. If it is not glossy enough, you can use plexiglass/clear plastic polish to try to give it that little bit extra. I believe it is 2000-2500, but it seemed to get more of a shine for me. Clean everything off and let dry.

Step 9:
Reinstallation. Before putting it in your car, put a coat of turtle wax car wax on her and polish her up. This will keep her looking good for several months. You should do this every 3-4 months and it'll look great.

If you follow these tips, use quality paint, and have lots of patience while prepping/painting you will have a show quality interior. Be careful, the addiction never stops. You'll start painting everything. I'm actually tired of the paint and am carbon fiber'ing everything now. Do it right and have fun

By the way, sorry for the novel. I just wanted to make sure I had everything in there. I wish I would've had a write up like this! I learned from 6 different interior paintjobs
Old 08-27-2006, 03:42 PM
  #4  
Customizing Director
iTrader: (12)
 
MadIceV8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: SW Chicago, IL
Posts: 5,778
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Take the peices to a professional, you'll be better off in the long run.



Quick Reply: Crap I Fudged Up Help On Int Painting



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:35 PM.