Detailed a Ford
10-09-2006, 09:08 AM
#1
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Posts: 847
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Detailed a Ford I also posted this in the Midwestern Section. This is the first truck I have detailed and it came out alot better than I thought. I used a pressure washer on the bed but I was wondering if there were any products available to help protect the bed liner. Its the plastic liner but what about the roll on tuff stuff for future refernces in case I get another truck.
I've been detailing on the side while going to school and I have to showoff how good I can do (other than sig). Anyways this is the guys DD (yeah its a ford) and come next week I'll be working on his other vehicles.
Before
During
Thats not dust it is oxidized paint. I worked the right side and took a pic of Before and after.
After
Can you see me now?
Products used.
Meguiars Professional Series Swirl Remover 2.0 and Yellow Sonus pad on Porter-Cable for swirl and oxidation removal.
Meguiars Gold Class Paste wax 2 coats applied with blue Sonus Pad.
Meguiars trim detailer (I prefer mothers back to black)
I've been detailing on the side while going to school and I have to showoff how good I can do (other than sig). Anyways this is the guys DD (yeah its a ford) and come next week I'll be working on his other vehicles.
Before
During
Thats not dust it is oxidized paint. I worked the right side and took a pic of Before and after.
After
Can you see me now?
Products used.
Meguiars Professional Series Swirl Remover 2.0 and Yellow Sonus pad on Porter-Cable for swirl and oxidation removal.
Meguiars Gold Class Paste wax 2 coats applied with blue Sonus Pad.
Meguiars trim detailer (I prefer mothers back to black)
10-09-2006, 12:04 PM
#3
Hmm. Well great job. It makes me even more upset that after using Menzerna Intensive and Final polish with a white pad on my PC that none of the scratches went away and I left myself with a few holograms. ******* terrific. 3000rpms the whole time per instructions. 
10-09-2006, 07:26 PM
#4
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Tomball, TX; B/CS, TX
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
looks good 
just wondering though, how did you get to know how to do everything? I know alot of it is just from pure experience, but did you research products, methods etc? Basically, where did you start from and how did you get to where you are now? I have been needing a job and i think this would be a good way for me to earn some extra cash
just wondering though, how did you get to know how to do everything? I know alot of it is just from pure experience, but did you research products, methods etc? Basically, where did you start from and how did you get to where you are now? I have been needing a job and i think this would be a good way for me to earn some extra cash
10-09-2006, 07:39 PM
#5
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: orlando fl
Posts: 1,530
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by texasreb18
looks good just wondering though, how did you get to know how to do everything? I know alot of it is just from pure experience, but did you research products, methods etc? Basically, where did you start from and how did you get to where you are now? I have been needing a job and i think this would be a good way for me to earn some extra cash
just wondering though, how did you get to know how to do everything? I know alot of it is just from pure experience, but did you research products, methods etc? Basically, where did you start from and how did you get to where you are now? I have been needing a job and i think this would be a good way for me to earn some extra cash
10-09-2006, 08:32 PM
#6
TECH Addict
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Amarillo, Texas
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
CashMoney - Nice work 
You're working on two completely different vehicles. GM paint is very hard and takes a good deal of effort to correct. It's likely you'll need to use Menzerna IP with a light cutting pad, and you definitely need to bump the speed to 5-6 (btw, the PC's speed is measured in OPM - orbits per minute). Use moderate pressure and slow, overlapping passes. Don't move on until you're satisfied with the level of defect removal. Once you're satisfied, then you can follow up with Menzerna FP using the polishing pad and speed 5 to fully burnish the finish.
Originally Posted by SmokeySS
Hmm. Well great job. It makes me even more upset that after using Menzerna Intensive and Final polish with a white pad on my PC that none of the scratches went away and I left myself with a few holograms. ******* terrific. 3000rpms the whole time per instructions.
10-09-2006, 11:16 PM
#7
Really? See I was nervous because the instructions from the website said about 3000 rpms and on the bottles it said 1-1200 rpms. I was using a white pad for both. But oh well. That will have to wait a long time because I glazed and then used both Klasse products on top. I won't go stripping it down now.
But no, I didn't use pressure and I didn't get anything with more cut than a white pad. I guess the next step up is a yellow pad and then wool. So, more speed, pressure, and a yellow pad for next time? I was quite nervous about the abrasiveness in the first place while doing this - then I saw I wasn't doing anything haha. That is why I didn't get a yellow pad because I read the description about the cut and it described the use for older, oxidized vehicles. Yet I drive an 02 and figured I would make my paint look like *** if I used that. But I suppose the PC will keep me safe? Love the car and if I hurt it ... the world will end.
Oh and CashMoney, that truck looks great now.
But no, I didn't use pressure and I didn't get anything with more cut than a white pad. I guess the next step up is a yellow pad and then wool. So, more speed, pressure, and a yellow pad for next time? I was quite nervous about the abrasiveness in the first place while doing this - then I saw I wasn't doing anything haha. That is why I didn't get a yellow pad because I read the description about the cut and it described the use for older, oxidized vehicles. Yet I drive an 02 and figured I would make my paint look like *** if I used that. But I suppose the PC will keep me safe? Love the car and if I hurt it ... the world will end.
Oh and CashMoney, that truck looks great now.
Trending Topics
10-10-2006, 08:13 AM
#8
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Posts: 847
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah I got most of my info on this site actually from ZaneOs posts. What I didnt get from him I got from the cd-rom that autopia sent me when I bought my Porter-Cable. As far as products I use and see how well they work If I dont like after one use I take the products with me to the car shows and there are usually guys or gals there that like the product so its a bonus for them. Next year though Im going to switch to Zaino Im hoping that I can use the rest of the meguiars. btw my apostraphe button isnt working sorry.
-Nate
-Nate
10-10-2006, 08:15 AM
#9
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Posts: 847
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SmokeySS
I guess the next step up is a yellow pad and then wool. So, more speed, pressure, and a yellow pad for next time?
10-10-2006, 08:39 AM
#10
TECH Addict
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Amarillo, Texas
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SmokeySS
Really? See I was nervous because the instructions from the website said about 3000 rpms and on the bottles it said 1-1200 rpms. I was using a white pad for both. But oh well. That will have to wait a long time because I glazed and then used both Klasse products on top. I won't go stripping it down now.
But no, I didn't use pressure and I didn't get anything with more cut than a white pad. I guess the next step up is a yellow pad and then wool. So, more speed, pressure, and a yellow pad for next time? I was quite nervous about the abrasiveness in the first place while doing this - then I saw I wasn't doing anything haha. That is why I didn't get a yellow pad because I read the description about the cut and it described the use for older, oxidized vehicles. Yet I drive an 02 and figured I would make my paint look like *** if I used that. But I suppose the PC will keep me safe?
But no, I didn't use pressure and I didn't get anything with more cut than a white pad. I guess the next step up is a yellow pad and then wool. So, more speed, pressure, and a yellow pad for next time? I was quite nervous about the abrasiveness in the first place while doing this - then I saw I wasn't doing anything haha. That is why I didn't get a yellow pad because I read the description about the cut and it described the use for older, oxidized vehicles. Yet I drive an 02 and figured I would make my paint look like *** if I used that. But I suppose the PC will keep me safe?
10-10-2006, 10:26 AM
#11
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Cypress, Tx
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by CashMoney
I have yet to see a car bad enough to use a wool pad btw. You would be suprised what all you can get out with the yellow pad.
I would add this ..
I would never use a wool pad on a PC, and unless you have a lot of experience with a rotary, a wool pad is a receipe for swirls, or worse.
You need to be working on some pretty serious defects to be pulling out the wool pad...
10-10-2006, 11:12 PM
#15
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Elgin
Posts: 747
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ZaneO
CashMoney - Nice work
You're working on two completely different vehicles. GM paint is very hard and takes a good deal of effort to correct. It's likely you'll need to use Menzerna IP with a light cutting pad, and you definitely need to bump the speed to 5-6 (btw, the PC's speed is measured in OPM - orbits per minute). Use moderate pressure and slow, overlapping passes. Don't move on until you're satisfied with the level of defect removal. Once you're satisfied, then you can follow up with Menzerna FP using the polishing pad and speed 5 to fully burnish the finish.
You're working on two completely different vehicles. GM paint is very hard and takes a good deal of effort to correct. It's likely you'll need to use Menzerna IP with a light cutting pad, and you definitely need to bump the speed to 5-6 (btw, the PC's speed is measured in OPM - orbits per minute). Use moderate pressure and slow, overlapping passes. Don't move on until you're satisfied with the level of defect removal. Once you're satisfied, then you can follow up with Menzerna FP using the polishing pad and speed 5 to fully burnish the finish.
i agree.
I used IP with a yellow cutting pad on speed 6 on my camaro !!
works great
followed by a glaze on a white pad ( polishing ) speed 5 and then sealed with a finishing pad speed 3-4
