Battery covers???
I checked with optima and the covers they have do not list the battery I have. I have the red top 75/35. Does anyone know if their covers fit this battery? I have seen a few optima covers on Ebay but can't get them answer whether they will fit or not. What I'm thinking of doing is mounting the spacer that comes with the battery (for the bottom) on top and then using a flat cover for the top. It would have to have longer sides to cover the height of the spacer. I don't want the spacer or the battery to show. Its been raining here for what seems like weeks and I haven't put much time in finding a solution.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time

I dont know if lexan will bend 90degrees on a small inside radius without breaking, but if you can get ahold of some polycarbonate, I know that will bend without a problem in a regular press brake.



I hear you on that one! This is why I wanted to see if I could get one ready made before attempting to customize
To use the solvent weld, fine sand your cuts very flat, (sandpaper on table top, not held by fingers) then make sure everything fits tight, tape the box up with small pieces of tape and finally...carefully use the applicator to "wick" the solvent into the seam. It "sucks" the fluid in with capillary action. Cures in an hour, take the tape off.
I have made a lot of stuff like this.
It's nice to buff the cut edges for a finished look. Eastwood supplies buffing compound....
Ram
http://www.rplastics.com/weldon16.html
Last edited by LILWS6; Feb 2, 2007 at 06:05 PM. Reason: added text
Yep That will certainly work. And it is more forgiving than the stuff I used. So your cuts don't have to be so perfect. Get the right applicator for it.
You are going to paint it right? so you will probably clean any roughness or gaps up with sandpaper anyway first and maybe even round the egdes. Start with 120, 180, 250, 300 and end up with 400 or something like that. then the paint should fill the rest of the scratches.
I used to build water bubble sculptures out of clear plexi so I had to use the SOLVENT types, in the little cans. Real thin like acetone. and I used the little hypodermic needle applicators (they have them too). But I had to get the cuts really close to perfect then polish the edges and it had to fit really tight before taping it up or it would leave gaps. I used that NOVUS plastic polish too, nice stuff.
So I think you chose the right stuff. Let it cure real maybe 36 hours before beating on it with sandpaper and paint.
that's a good site, I'm bookmarking it. Thanks.
good luck!


