Irocss85

iTrader: (1)

working on polishing the waterpump, maf ends, tbody, belt tensioner, a/c condensor, ....... wondering if you can clear coat over that? the car doent get driven hardly so it wont be too bad to keep up the polish/shine, but it would be really nice if I could just shoot some clear coat over the polish parts and never have to polish them again.
what have you used? I just am afraid the clear will "yellow" over time. or flake off or something like that.

if I cant clear coat it, anyone had good success with "zoops" polish? Ive heard it will keep the surface sealed for a year?

this polishing is alot of work now, and it'll be even harder when the parts are on the car to keep them lookin new/shiney. I'll post pics pretty soon. there all comeing out really nice. but TONS of work to get them where they are now. Id say Ive spent alteast 15 hours between all the diff. parts, and none of them are done yet. its been a long learning process, I wasted abunch of time starting the polishing when they werent ready for that stage yet. just to go back to the 150grit sandpaper, then the 220 grit, then 1000, then 2000. next step will be the ruge polishing, then finally the billet polish/hand buff. thats when the real shine will come out. they are suprisingly shiney after the 2000 grit stage though.

rambo benson

Yes,

Eastwood makes a bare metal clearcote spray.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/

The clearcote will last years. Make sure you get all the wax polish off with brake cleaner or something first or it will "fisheye"

Good luck.

1QUIKWS6

iTrader: (61)

Yes, you can clearcoat over polished aluminum in order to keep down the maintenance, but as mentioned, the surface needs to be grease/oil/particulate free otherwise it will look like A$$.

Better thing would be to get them clear powdercoated - powdercoating is much more durable - can stand up to direct contact with gasoline and the such.

Unfortunately, the surface prep is just as important with the powdercoating - only thing is, you're paying someone else to do it for you...

Jeremiah

iTrader: (5)

I think a clear powder coat would be best to resist discolloration and possible peeling down the road.

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

Forget clearcoat, even the Eastwood spray can stuff....

Only use this stuff to seal polished work... on Eastwood's site... ==>


ZoopSeal Original Sealer

Finally a product to protect and seal all of your polished aluminum, chrome,and stainless steel. Easy to apply Zoop's eliminates the need for repeat polishing and prevents dulling and oxidation for up to 2 years. Formulated to be used on cars, trucks, motorcycles, boats, and a variety of other applications.
ZoopSeal Junior Kit $99.99
ZoopSeal Deluxe Kit $119.99

Irocss85

iTrader: (1)

so youve used that stuff with great success? how much comes in the kit? as in, is there enough in there to seal rims, waterpump, tbody, poss. valve covers, brakes lines, a/c lines? I think we could handle $120, but if it goes up to $240 to cover all that stuff, damn. not so sure.

rambo benson

BTW, Irocss85, I feel your pain...did same with my V/C's... over and over...now i know to take it all down with sanding grades first.

lbls1

Its very possible. I had wheels polished, then "powdercleared." The polished surface will not yellow, but you must keep them up over time. You can't use regular polishing cleaners as it will strip the clear. You will need special clearcoat chemical polishes that will clean without using abrasives. Some brands include Flitz and Blue Magic.

At first it may be a pain keeping the cleared polished surface up, as I've found that newly polished aluminum tends to oxidize quickly. If its wheels or parts that are exposed to the weather you may get things like brown spotting or white cloudy residue. Using clay or paint cleaners will not put a dent into any of the oxidation spots, and (again) unless its a chemical, non abrasive polish cleaning solution, you will end up stripping your clear if you use other products for bare metal like Mother's Billet Polish.

Once you get used to the maintenance (it will slow down in time), polish-cleared aluminum surfaces will give you great looks and longevity. I definitely would do that process again and/or buy other polished aluminum, clearcoated wheels.

Y2K Pewter SS

iTrader: (18)

I did all 4 wheels with the Jr. kit and I have a ton left. Quite sure there is enough in there to do everything you need.

Irocss85

iTrader: (1)

Im thinking im goin to try the zoops. we'll give that a shot and see how that works out. I love the look of freshly polished parts.

ls2 bait

iTrader: (11)

i thought about sand blasting my water pump etc when i did heads and clearing over it-i love the look of aluminum. i even sanded my calipers and then cleared over them-turned out very nice imo.

SPECIALIZED STAINLESS

iTrader: (15)

I don't have Zoop or clear on any of my polished aluminum or stainless and I haven't had to re polish them in 4 months although I don't drive it in the rain...

Why is Zoop so expensive? Is it a paste or what? How do you apply it?? Thanks

Y2K Pewter SS

iTrader: (18)

Its a hybrid ceramic sealer. It works its way into the pores and seals off the breathing which stops the oxidatizing. It comes with a cleaner, the Zoop itself and then a final sealant. The zoop itself is like a gel that you rub on and I let it dry 24 hours before I went to the final sealant. You rub the final seal after the Zoop has cured and it removes all the impurities the Zoop forced out of the pores.

Irocss85

iTrader: (1)

do you know whats the diff. between the jr kit and bigger kit? is this stuff easy to use? is the zoop itself a polish, or will I use my polish, then apply the zoop process to seal it?

Y2K Pewter SS

iTrader: (18)

The Jr. kit is advertised to cover 37 square feet. The bigger kit just covers more square footage, that is the only difference.

The zoop itself is not a polish. Its a ceramic sealant.

It is easy to use, but very time consuming. The key is to get it highly cleaned & polished before applying the Zoop and giving the Zoop ample time to cure, at least 24 hours IMO.

You have to wait at least another 24 hours after the Final sealant before you use any other polish.

Gooma

Can you get a clear coat over polished aluminum that's heat resistant like for rocker covers etc and so it doesn't go yellow

E.rodz

iTrader: (4)

I see there is some bad info on here that you can just spray some clear over it and it will work I have tried this many times with success right away then months, years later it starts getting blotchy then it will eventually turn a white color dull look. it must react with the solvents and oxidize it under the clear, I have used spay cans as well with the same results.I have also used clear powder coat with great results it works and stays looking the same even over the years. I have never tried zoop seal so I can not give you any advice on that product.but just trying to help with some of my experiences here.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Use something like Eraser or an IPA wipedown before you clear them, don't use brake cleaner.