BLING!!! Blinding Polished LS1 Parts...
02-20-2007, 09:52 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by Allergik2dyin
Nice work man. I thought you were a sponsor, did something happen?
02-20-2007, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by superchargedramair
doesnt that hold hold the heat in more?
On a 500 hp motor you'll lose maybe 3 hp to heat. This topic has been beaten to death in other sections. With all the volume of air passing it doesn't have time to heat itself enough to make any difference.
Imagine how hot a turbo'd/supercharged air charge is even with intercooling. I actually picked up low end torque and lost nothing up top when I switched my LS6 to the Weiand.
Cam only, pulley, headers and ported throtlle body (and the Weiand) I dyno'd 421 rwhp.... that was before I added the Incon TT.
02-20-2007, 10:45 PM
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So do you do all of this this polishing personally or does your buddies shop? If he has "Industrial, heavy duty equipment..." for polishing then he/the shop must polish professionally hence the perfect results we always see. Just curious.
It is very, very nice work BTW.
It is very, very nice work BTW.
02-21-2007, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by XtinctZ28
So do you do all of this this polishing personally or does your buddies shop? If he has "Industrial, heavy duty equipment..." for polishing then he/the shop must polish professionally hence the perfect results we always see. Just curious.
It is very, very nice work BTW.
It is very, very nice work BTW.
Like I said from the start, back when I used to be a sponsor, this is an extention of my hobby, and somemtimes it pays for beer money. I have a day job and that always comes first. If I have the time- I do it, if I don't, then the shop will do it and I make.... almost nothing. ~Joshua
02-21-2007, 07:00 AM
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Well, you do awesome work. 
I have a decent 10" buffing setup from Eastwood, and even with lots of prep work, I cannot get the results you get. I am always impressed when I see your pics, it makes me always try harder on my polishing projects!
I have a decent 10" buffing setup from Eastwood, and even with lots of prep work, I cannot get the results you get. I am always impressed when I see your pics, it makes me always try harder on my polishing projects!
02-21-2007, 07:27 AM
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how the hell do you polish the outside of the TB? i did my MAF, fuel rails, t-stat housing, and the inside of my TB and it all looks great. but how do you get in all the corners and stuff on the TB?
02-21-2007, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Z28_DAD
how the hell do you polish the outside of the TB? i did my MAF, fuel rails, t-stat housing, and the inside of my TB and it all looks great. but how do you get in all the corners and stuff on the TB?
Tips:**********
Once you get the sanding done, if you let the small buffs (if it's 4" it will burn down to 2.x" that's the sweet, used little b!+ch
) and use that to let the buff "wash" into corners and it will eventually roll into the results you see. Also, the smoothest (or finest) sanding rolls is 320 grit. After that it's all by hand going down to 1,000 grit. *I/ WE* make our own rolls out of sanding paper and glue going down to 800 grit to make the work faster. If you don't want to do everthing by hand use glue and roll your own sanding rolls of whatever grit you want. Once we get to 800 with power then we "cut" the grain by hand with 1,000 and then go to town with the heavy rough buffers.
02-21-2007, 09:23 AM
#29
[QUOTE=~JOSHUA]Eastwood makes small 4' buffs. Look for the yellow treated ones... they last longer.
Tips:**********
Once you get the sanding done, if you let the small buffs (if it's 4" it will burn down to 2.x" that's the sweet, used little b!+ch ) and use that to let the buff "wash" into corners and it will eventually roll into the results you see.
Also, the smoothest (or finest) sanding rolls is 320 grit. After that it's all by hand going down to 1,000 grit. *I/ WE* make our own rolls out of sanding paper and glue going down to 800 grit to make the work faster. If you don't want to do everthing by hand use glue and roll your own sanding rolls of whatever grit you want. Once we get to 800 with power then we "cut" the grain by hand with 1,000 and then go to town with the heavy rough buffers.[/QUOTE]
VERY GOOD TIPS JOSHUA AND VERY GOOD WORK AS ALWAYS
Tips:**********
Once you get the sanding done, if you let the small buffs (if it's 4" it will burn down to 2.x" that's the sweet, used little b!+ch
) and use that to let the buff "wash" into corners and it will eventually roll into the results you see. Also, the smoothest (or finest) sanding rolls is 320 grit. After that it's all by hand going down to 1,000 grit. *I/ WE* make our own rolls out of sanding paper and glue going down to 800 grit to make the work faster. If you don't want to do everthing by hand use glue and roll your own sanding rolls of whatever grit you want. Once we get to 800 with power then we "cut" the grain by hand with 1,000 and then go to town with the heavy rough buffers.[/QUOTE]
VERY GOOD TIPS JOSHUA AND VERY GOOD WORK AS ALWAYS
02-21-2007, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Runn
Polished i hope 
You bought a $12,000 complete kit for much less.... life's a cherry!
02-23-2007, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by ~JOSHUA
Took a little break because of personal reasons. I'll be back soon, but until then I'm trying not to step on toes. (Adminstrators/Mods)
02-23-2007, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ~JOSHUA
Took a little break because of personal reasons. I'll be back soon, but until then I'm trying not to step on toes. (Adminstrators/Mods)
