Oxidizing shift console in interior?
Oxidizing shift console in interior? Just got a new console for my shifter and some of the plastic has faded. What is the best way to get the color back? Should I respray it with some type of special paint (that won't chip off) or is there some type of polish I can apply? I've seen a thread that explained this somewhere, someone repainted their interior pieces, but can't seem to find it.
i would repaint them.. i cant seem to find parbreaks painting plastic directions, but this should help https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=paint+plastic
here is bryans write up
Originally Posted by parbreak
Here's a little write up I did a while ago. This would apply to painting intakes, interior pieces, etc. Basically anything plastic:
I did a little write up since so many people were asking how I did it:
Here's how I did it and you can too. Only difference is I use professional paint guns and paints, but same results can be acheived with rattle cans.
1) Start with 120-180 grit sandpaper and sand off all the pebble-like finish.
2) Go to 320-400 grit to remove previous grits scratches.
3) Now here's where you can make a choice. You can either keep going up in grits to 600, 800, 1000 to make the plastic smooth or you can stop at 320/400 depending on what type of primer you use. I don't like sanding that much so I use a high build primer. One good rattle can brand is Duplicolor High Build Primer/Filler. Get the gray, not the red oxide.
4) If you can't get that and have to use regular primer then continue with the finer grit papers up to 1000.
5) Now you will need to use an adhesion promoter since these pieces are plastic. I use a product called Bulldog and it is available in rattle cans. Spray 2-3 light coats waiting 2-3 minutes between coats. After last coat wait 10- 15 minutes before applying primer or the primer will "wrinkle".
6) Now start applying primer and make SURE the first coat is very light and only a dusting. You just want a misting to adhere to the Bulldog.
7) If using Duplicolor wait 15 min. between coats. Otherwise follow directions on can.
8) Continue now with slightly heavier coats up to about 3 coats.
9) Light dry over night and sand with 400 grit. Check progress and if smooth sand with 1000 grit and you're ready for basecoat. If not satisfied lay down some more primer and dry overnight again, etc.
10) When ready for base coat again first coat is only a slight misting. You're not looking for full coverage. Some primer should actually show through. Follow instructions on time between coats. 2nd coat a little heavier and 3rd coat should be enough for full coverage. If you are using a solid color, that is not metallic, you can wetsand the base coat with 1000 grit if you want, but if it looks good leave it alone.
11) Wait at least 20-30 minutes and then start applying clearcoat. Again, for rattle can stuff Duplicolor is good. Light misting for 1st coat followed by slightly heavier coats.
12) 4-5 coats of clear. Let dry for 2-3 DAYS!!
13) Now if you are planning on wetsanding and polishing you can do that at this time. I usually do not wetsand and polish since my painting skills are fairly adept. The key to not having to do this is to lay on the clear very lightly. Go with multiple light coats holding the can about 12 inches from the surface. Also try to do it in as clean environment as possible so you don't get dust in the finish.
If you have any other questions or need help let me know.
Bryan
parbreak
I did a little write up since so many people were asking how I did it:
Here's how I did it and you can too. Only difference is I use professional paint guns and paints, but same results can be acheived with rattle cans.
1) Start with 120-180 grit sandpaper and sand off all the pebble-like finish.
2) Go to 320-400 grit to remove previous grits scratches.
3) Now here's where you can make a choice. You can either keep going up in grits to 600, 800, 1000 to make the plastic smooth or you can stop at 320/400 depending on what type of primer you use. I don't like sanding that much so I use a high build primer. One good rattle can brand is Duplicolor High Build Primer/Filler. Get the gray, not the red oxide.
4) If you can't get that and have to use regular primer then continue with the finer grit papers up to 1000.
5) Now you will need to use an adhesion promoter since these pieces are plastic. I use a product called Bulldog and it is available in rattle cans. Spray 2-3 light coats waiting 2-3 minutes between coats. After last coat wait 10- 15 minutes before applying primer or the primer will "wrinkle".
6) Now start applying primer and make SURE the first coat is very light and only a dusting. You just want a misting to adhere to the Bulldog.
7) If using Duplicolor wait 15 min. between coats. Otherwise follow directions on can.
8) Continue now with slightly heavier coats up to about 3 coats.
9) Light dry over night and sand with 400 grit. Check progress and if smooth sand with 1000 grit and you're ready for basecoat. If not satisfied lay down some more primer and dry overnight again, etc.
10) When ready for base coat again first coat is only a slight misting. You're not looking for full coverage. Some primer should actually show through. Follow instructions on time between coats. 2nd coat a little heavier and 3rd coat should be enough for full coverage. If you are using a solid color, that is not metallic, you can wetsand the base coat with 1000 grit if you want, but if it looks good leave it alone.
11) Wait at least 20-30 minutes and then start applying clearcoat. Again, for rattle can stuff Duplicolor is good. Light misting for 1st coat followed by slightly heavier coats.
12) 4-5 coats of clear. Let dry for 2-3 DAYS!!
13) Now if you are planning on wetsanding and polishing you can do that at this time. I usually do not wetsand and polish since my painting skills are fairly adept. The key to not having to do this is to lay on the clear very lightly. Go with multiple light coats holding the can about 12 inches from the surface. Also try to do it in as clean environment as possible so you don't get dust in the finish.
If you have any other questions or need help let me know.
Bryan
parbreak
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque
Try Mother's Plastic Polish and then Mother's Back to Black. The plastic polish is just like polishing your paint....only it's made for plastics. It's abrasive and will take the surface oxidation out.
