best buffer...
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From: cape vincent NY
best buffer... i want to get a really really nice buffer for my 99 formy and my wifes 06 trailblazer..both vehicles are black...and i know mine is full of swirl marks and some scratches...and i want to keep her suv looking as good as possible too...so please can somebody out there give me an idea on what buffer/compounds are best? thanks
Launching!
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From: S. JerZ
Supposively Tropi-Care's 7424 Porter Cable provides some great results. I think a lot of guys use the TC-8 swirl cutter and the TC-3 Polisher. I've personally seen the results on a black car w/swirl damage and it turned out amazing. It will actually take away the swirls, rather than cover them up. I'm sure someone will chime in on what process they use and with which pads.
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From: Tomball/Nacogdoches TX
The porter Cable isn't made my Tropi-Care but is by far the best buffer on the market. The Dual Action design Porter Cable 7424 is what I use and wouldn't purchase any other buffer
The PC is the best dual action orbital on the market .. I have tried almost all of them .. and it is my preferred tool ..
Call our sponsor, Tropi-care .. they have a summer long special going on the PC, and you can get everything else you need at the same time, pads, towels, backing plate, TC-8 , TC-3 ..
Talk to Steve .. he will hook you up with what you need.
http://www.tropi-care.com
Call our sponsor, Tropi-care .. they have a summer long special going on the PC, and you can get everything else you need at the same time, pads, towels, backing plate, TC-8 , TC-3 ..
Talk to Steve .. he will hook you up with what you need.
http://www.tropi-care.com
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2005
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For a dual action you cant beat the PC but there is a new one thats supposedly slightly stronger called the ultimate detail machine i havent tried it yet but supposedly it vibrates less and is slightly more powerful...
As far as rotary polishers the best on the market is a metabo
As far as rotary polishers the best on the market is a metabo
I have a PC 7424, it did an excellent job on my black '94Z. Got the yellow / orange / blue pads to go with it from Tropicare as well.
I also have a Makita variable speed rotary buffer. It's a lot more aggressive than the PC. The PC with a yellow pad has a hard time with 2000 grit scratches, the Makita with a wool pad can wipe them out in no time.
I also have a Makita variable speed rotary buffer. It's a lot more aggressive than the PC. The PC with a yellow pad has a hard time with 2000 grit scratches, the Makita with a wool pad can wipe them out in no time.
yeah the PC is awesome. as for rotary buffers the makita i use to have one and i kept having premature bushing wear in the head causing the buffer to take a couple seconds to get to the set rpms. i have a old used snap on buffer that i got off the truck, which was made by dewalt(its black instead of yellow) and man the thing is amazing.
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I started out with a Porter Cable (PC7424)... once I became familiar with different polishes, paint characteristics, techniques, getting familiar with buffing in general, etc... I then moved to a Hitachi rotary and havent looked back. The only time I use my PC is when the area Im working on is too small for a rotary, in that case I use the PC with 4" spot buff pads.
I encourage everyone to use a PC for a while then when you feel confident move to a rotary. I waited about 8 months and detailing on just about every weekend before I bought my Hitachi. Just PLEASE for the love of god start out on a junk car or junk yard panel. lol
The rotary cuts the work time in half and the results are incredible.
I encourage everyone to use a PC for a while then when you feel confident move to a rotary. I waited about 8 months and detailing on just about every weekend before I bought my Hitachi. Just PLEASE for the love of god start out on a junk car or junk yard panel. lol
The rotary cuts the work time in half and the results are incredible.
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I, like most, have a PC, i love it. It smooths down a lot of the scratches and makes waxing my car A LOT easier!!!! Especially after going over the car with a clay bar. The PC is definitely the way to go if you're a beginner. Like me.
I'm going to purchase a Vector Waxxpro 7in polisher soon, its 1/3 of the cost as the makita, hitachi, and dewalt polishers but they're supposed to be just as good.
I'm going to purchase a Vector Waxxpro 7in polisher soon, its 1/3 of the cost as the makita, hitachi, and dewalt polishers but they're supposed to be just as good.
Originally Posted by Brian2006
The porter Cable isn't made my Tropi-Care but is by far the best buffer on the market. The Dual Action design Porter Cable 7424 is what I use and wouldn't purchase any other buffer
Take what Avengeance said. Start with the PC, take time, learn, practice....
Once you are ready, get a rotary. *START ON JUNKARD PANELS/CARS* In the wrong hands, the rotary will burn your paint very quickly.
I love my PC, and will hold onto it for a long time, but on harder clear coats (like GM) it is limited to how much correction it can do. The rotary far exceeds the PC's abilities. Unless a car has extremely light swirls, I always use my rotary.
Originally Posted by Rich189
For a dual action you cant beat the PC but there is a new one thats supposedly slightly stronger called the ultimate detail machine i havent tried it yet but supposedly it vibrates less and is slightly more powerful...
I agree that a rotary is a much more powerful tool. it is quicker, and most times even easier to use than the PC ..
with that said .. the PC is my first tool of choice 90% of the time ..
I have been doing this a long time, and even though I can tell by looking that the PC won't cut it, I will still end up giving it a shot most times before I pull out the rotary (unless I am removing sanding marks or extremly heavy swirling) that way I know I am not taking a shortcut.
Why? because it follows the basic rule of thumb.. Always use the least agressive method possible to correct a defect. Just because I can fix it with a rotary, doesn't mean it is the best way to fix it.
I am not trying to attack anyone, or say that they are wrong or anything like that .. it is just my personal opinion .. I will do two passes with a PC instead of one with a rotary ..
with that said .. the PC is my first tool of choice 90% of the time ..
I have been doing this a long time, and even though I can tell by looking that the PC won't cut it, I will still end up giving it a shot most times before I pull out the rotary (unless I am removing sanding marks or extremly heavy swirling) that way I know I am not taking a shortcut.
Why? because it follows the basic rule of thumb.. Always use the least agressive method possible to correct a defect. Just because I can fix it with a rotary, doesn't mean it is the best way to fix it.
I am not trying to attack anyone, or say that they are wrong or anything like that .. it is just my personal opinion .. I will do two passes with a PC instead of one with a rotary ..
