Strip-down car wash
Strip-down car wash Bought a used Z and I want to clean it off real well prior to waxing. It's been sitting on a lot and despite a very clean interior, the exterior has all kinds of water spots and other misc. crap stuck on. I usually use Gold Class car wash but I don't think it's formulated to cut through any real crud. Any recommendations? Dish soap?
Go buy a clay bar kit.
If you don't know how to use it, just do a quick search on here and you'll get a ton of info.
* tip...you can even clay bar your windows to get rid of some water spots.
If you don't know how to use it, just do a quick search on here and you'll get a ton of info.
* tip...you can even clay bar your windows to get rid of some water spots.
Bought a used Z and I want to clean it off real well prior to waxing. It's been sitting on a lot and despite a very clean interior, the exterior has all kinds of water spots and other misc. crap stuck on. I usually use Gold Class car wash but I don't think it's formulated to cut through any real crud. Any recommendations? Dish soap?
Follow up with the use of the clay bar per directions using the clay lube that may be included or a spray bottle of car wash concentrate and distilled water. Keep your work area well lubricated during the clay bar work to eliminate the chance of inflicting new scratches or micro-marring. Once completed with the entire surface, re-rinse or wash the entire vehicle once again.
Will you be addressing the removal of any existing swirl marks and scratches by hand or machine?
Once your satisfied with the surface restoration at this particular time, you can swab the entire surface with a 50/50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water. This will insure the removal of any old wax, oils and residues from any swirl removers and compounds as well.
Now you can apply your favorite last step protection product since it will apply directly to the paint surface and last longer. Establish a regular surface maintenance process will help to make future treatments easier and faster.
Steve - thanks, thats the kind of complete answer I was hoping to receive. After the first complete wash and claying I will determine if swirl removal is necessary. I have recently used a cream polish by hand, but I also have a random orbital buffer - is that proper for polishing out swirls?
And what is your take on the Meguiars Gold Class product line (wash, wax and leather products specifically)?
Thank you for your time.
And what is your take on the Meguiars Gold Class product line (wash, wax and leather products specifically)?
Thank you for your time.
Removing some mild blemishes by hand can be accomplished although it can be time consuming.
For the random orbit polisher, it needs to have a variable speed feature like the PC 7424 or 7336 in order to remove scratches and swirls as well as applying a thin layer of paint protection such as liquid wax or sealant. You could also apply the final products by hand if necessary but the time saved with the buffer is a plus for me.
For many OTC products, they will provide average to satisfactory results when used correctly for most users. Enthusiasts are usually looking for the best results they can achieve and will try a variety of products until they find their favorites. With our products and accessories, we wanted them to be easy to use, cost effective and provide professional series results for all types of customers.
For the random orbit polisher, it needs to have a variable speed feature like the PC 7424 or 7336 in order to remove scratches and swirls as well as applying a thin layer of paint protection such as liquid wax or sealant. You could also apply the final products by hand if necessary but the time saved with the buffer is a plus for me.
For many OTC products, they will provide average to satisfactory results when used correctly for most users. Enthusiasts are usually looking for the best results they can achieve and will try a variety of products until they find their favorites. With our products and accessories, we wanted them to be easy to use, cost effective and provide professional series results for all types of customers.
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Well depending on how bad the spots and marks are you can use dish soap on a car to remove all the wax and most of the build up. Just make sure you rewash the car and put some wax on her 
I did an initial wash tonight with Meguiars Gold Class which cleared enough of the ugly for me to see the real scum. It's red and parts of it were repainted in 2004 so it doesn't have any swirl marks that I could see. But there's a thin layer of cloudy stuff that the wash couldn't clean.
I dabbed a little 3M polishing compound on a test area and used an old t-shirt to polish and buff - WOW! The scum comes off real easy and the paint is brilliant red. It will take some time and effort but the front half of the car will really come alive with a little polish.
Steve, from your info above it looks like I need to clay prior to a full polish, is that correct?
BTW I'm in South Florida. Here's the car this morning before a wash. The camera really hides the flaws but the front fenders and hood have a dull scum on them. Not for long
I dabbed a little 3M polishing compound on a test area and used an old t-shirt to polish and buff - WOW! The scum comes off real easy and the paint is brilliant red. It will take some time and effort but the front half of the car will really come alive with a little polish.
Steve, from your info above it looks like I need to clay prior to a full polish, is that correct?
BTW I'm in South Florida. Here's the car this morning before a wash. The camera really hides the flaws but the front fenders and hood have a dull scum on them. Not for long
OK I think we're using 'polish' in two different ways. I'm speaking of polishing compound - a very fine cousin to buffing compound. It's just abrasive enough to remove the cloudy scum (water spots, etc) without removing much material. Would the clay bar follow this step, then? And I assume it gets washed once more and then waxed?
OK I think we're using 'polish' in two different ways. I'm speaking of polishing compound - a very fine cousin to buffing compound. It's just abrasive enough to remove the cloudy scum (water spots, etc) without removing much material. Would the clay bar follow this step, then? And I assume it gets washed once more and then waxed?
99zee is right on about using the clay bar first before any machine or hand polishing. The purpose of the clay bar is to skim off any surface contaminants. Removing these first eliminates the chances of inflicting new scratches during the polishing phase. Not doing this first is how your new scratches will occur.
It sounds like you are describing some mild oxidation. Use only enough of an aggressive pad/product combination to remove the cloudy condition. Some micro-marring can occur during this process but you can finer polishing combinations to remove these and restore clarity to the surface.
Don't worry about removing any amount of appreciable clear coat if you're using a Porter Cable buffer. It is safe enough to buff over edges without any damages. With its dual-action feature, it is impossible to burn or remove any clear coat unless its already chipping away from the surface.
Once you're satisfied with the restoration for this time period, you can wash the surface to remove any remaining polishing or compound residue. Before applying this episode's sealant or wax protection, you can swab the surface with a 50/50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water to insure removal of all oils and residues.
