Arizen seat height
has anyone else noticed this? what did you do to fix it? did the padding wear down enough, or did you modifiy the bracket?
if i had a welder and some flat stock, id do it myself....but since i dont......i was thinking of having the rear part of the brackets cut, dropped, and re-welded. has anyone done this or something different?
i specifically bought the seat both for looks and mainly support while autoxing. i have a harness bar being made and 5pt. soon after. i really dont want to be limited to having the tops off every time i race.....
I have the Corbeau CR1 that I just put in and I have to change the exact same thing. I am also 6'1" and my head now touchs the T roof

I plan on cutting up the mount tomorrow and re welding it in a more usable height.
I guess it is meant for the 5'7" crowd.
Last edited by RAMPANT; Apr 5, 2008 at 08:23 PM.
6'2". This sucks. Any seats that don't ride higher? Or are the stock seats lower because the crappy cushioning in the seat has compressed with time?
i think its mostly the brackets, and partly the extra dense/thick cushioning the arizen has. im going to have the brackets modified, and see where that gets me.
as for other brands, i havent heard many bad things about big names like corbeau, sparco, etc. they have less padding, and the brackets might be lower. theyre made more for a specific purpose, ie: racing, while the arizens are made for both racing and daily driving/looks, so they have more padding.
I now have 2 1/2" clearance above my head
It took a fair bit of fooling around, but the bottom of the seat now sits about 3/4" above the floor cross members. The passengers side will not likely go more than 3/4" lower due the the hump in the floor.
I did not have my camera at my buddies shop so I have no pictures and nor do I ever want to take the damned thing out again.
So it can be done.
I now have 2 1/2" clearance above my head
It took a fair bit of fooling around, but the bottom of the seat now sits about 3/4" above the floor cross members. The passengers side will not likely go more than 3/4" lower due the the hump in the floor.
I did not have my camera at my buddies shop so I have no pictures and nor do I ever want to take the damned thing out again.
So it can be done.
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What I did for the drivers seat:
1/ remove the raised rear mounts with a grinder and smooth out the welds.
2/ then take the console side slider and invert it so the large cross section attachess to the bottom of the seat, this is the opposite of the locking slider.
3/ I then drilled 4 new holes shifted approximately 3/4" towards the console. This will move the seat towards the center of the car and will allow the rear console factory stud to clear the slider.
4/I then welded a flat section of the rasied tab that I ground off to give me mount for the rear console side stud. This is welded to to the flat bar that runs from front to back on the console side.
5/ Grind 3/16" off the top of the of the above stud and clean up the threads
6/ drill a new mounting hole in the flat bar above the stud on the drivers side.
Now how to install this contraption.
1/ Bolt the modified seat mount to the car and tighen all 4 bolts.
2/ Slide the seat track as far rearward as possible
3/ bolt the slider to the mount, this is a major pain and very difficult to get a wrench on, but it is possible.

4/ Slide the seat all the way forward and tilt the back forward and do the same to the rear 2 bolts.
The good thing with moving the seat inboard it allowed the seat to clear my swing out door bar of my 6 point roll bar. It was a bitch, with now knowing what to do I could likely do it 2-3 hours. I had to do a lot install and removal to check fit, interference and then modify.
Like I said I wished I had my camera with me.
Hopefully this helps someone, I hate typing.
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I need to do it on the passenger side though!







