Stereo people come in please.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
From: Kings Park, NY
Stereo people come in please. I had posted some audio questions earlier in December, but now that I am back home and have everything in front of me, I am ready to start this project. Bear with me in my questions, I don't know much (if anything about stereos). But I am always willing to learn and the equipment was pretty much free. I couldn't turn it down. <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">
I've got two 12" inch subs, 1 Sony Xplod (XS-L1235) and 1 Orion XTR 12. Once I get everything installed in the car and in working order I am planning on buying another Orion <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> Lastly, I have a Kove Audio ZX 500 amp.
1. I plan on using the Monsoon head unit, which has no preamp outputs. So I was told the PAC-OEM1 will do the trick <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0"> Where can I find this (on the web or in stores), and about how much am I looking to spend on it?
2. On the Monsoon headunit, what do I connect the PAC-OEM1 to?
3. Where do I mount the PAC-OEM1?
4. From the PAC-OEM1, I am assuming it connects to the amp (am I right)? Into the R/L inputs.
5. My power supply I am assuming will come from the battery. Or will the amp/subs draw too much power from the battery? If so, what do I do in that scenario?
6. What should be the ground for the amplifier? Keeping in mind the amp will be in the trunk.
7. What type of wires should I use for the power connection, ground, and sub connection?
I hope you guys can help me on this one. I would like to get it done soon, before the snow starts really falling and I can't drive my SS at all with the tunes bumpin'
George
I've got two 12" inch subs, 1 Sony Xplod (XS-L1235) and 1 Orion XTR 12. Once I get everything installed in the car and in working order I am planning on buying another Orion <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> Lastly, I have a Kove Audio ZX 500 amp.
1. I plan on using the Monsoon head unit, which has no preamp outputs. So I was told the PAC-OEM1 will do the trick <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0"> Where can I find this (on the web or in stores), and about how much am I looking to spend on it?
2. On the Monsoon headunit, what do I connect the PAC-OEM1 to?
3. Where do I mount the PAC-OEM1?
4. From the PAC-OEM1, I am assuming it connects to the amp (am I right)? Into the R/L inputs.
5. My power supply I am assuming will come from the battery. Or will the amp/subs draw too much power from the battery? If so, what do I do in that scenario?
6. What should be the ground for the amplifier? Keeping in mind the amp will be in the trunk.
7. What type of wires should I use for the power connection, ground, and sub connection?
I hope you guys can help me on this one. I would like to get it done soon, before the snow starts really falling and I can't drive my SS at all with the tunes bumpin'
George
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: P-waukee
Re: Stereo people come in please. Lessee :
1) http://store.clubgp.com/catview.asp?catid=6
Next to the last item on the page.
2) You should run one channel into each OEM unit. (one for left one for right channel). Basically it's a line level converter that converts high speaker signals to line level signals for other audio components like amps.
3) Behind the dash with the headunit wiring
4) Yes, run RCA cables for both channels from the two OEM adapters into the power amp(s), eq whatever is next in the audio chain.
5) I'm unsure of the power requirement for these. Normally line level adapters only need a ground and don't need power. (Just audio channel +,audio channel -, and ground).
6) You can either tap one back in the trunk area or run a wire to the front of the car and ground it with the head unit. Beware of multiple grounds causing whine or interference with your system.
7) Use a nice fat wire for power and ground. Normal speaker wire should suffice for the sub. Sorry, I don't remember specific AWG #'s for the wire.
Good luck !
BadAss30th
1) http://store.clubgp.com/catview.asp?catid=6
Next to the last item on the page.
2) You should run one channel into each OEM unit. (one for left one for right channel). Basically it's a line level converter that converts high speaker signals to line level signals for other audio components like amps.
3) Behind the dash with the headunit wiring
4) Yes, run RCA cables for both channels from the two OEM adapters into the power amp(s), eq whatever is next in the audio chain.
5) I'm unsure of the power requirement for these. Normally line level adapters only need a ground and don't need power. (Just audio channel +,audio channel -, and ground).
6) You can either tap one back in the trunk area or run a wire to the front of the car and ground it with the head unit. Beware of multiple grounds causing whine or interference with your system.
7) Use a nice fat wire for power and ground. Normal speaker wire should suffice for the sub. Sorry, I don't remember specific AWG #'s for the wire.
Good luck !
BadAss30th
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Fort Wort,Tx
Re: Stereo people come in please. 1. See above.
2. Does the amp have a built-in Low-pass crossover. If it does then use they wires on the back of the head unit. There is one plug that has three sections. One of the section will have four wires in it. Dk. Blue, Light Blue, and I think Yellow and brown. The yellow brown will be the left rear speaker output and the Blues will be the rear right output to the monsoon amp. It is perferred to tap the audio signal here since the power will be lower and it will be easier to use the PAC adapter to level match the signals to help stop unwanted noise.
3. There is usually room behind and to the right of the stock head unit to lay the PAC unit. It is passive and will not require power but may require ground. (The instructions will detail when to use the ground)
4. Yes it will connect to the amp using RCA connections. Usually 17' wires will reach from the front of the car to the trunk. If you will run them down the drivers side then you will have less chance of picking up inductive noise.
5. The stock altenator should have enough current to handle one amp. You will need to connect it to the battery. If you will use a GM battery tap then connecting the wire will be easier and more reliable. If this is the only amp that you will be connecting then I would use at least an 8AWG. wire for the positive.
6. For the ground you need to ground the amp to the chassis of the car. Make sure you remove all of the paint from the metal were you attach the wire to the chassis. Then coat the area with a dielectric grease to prevent rust and corrosion. The ground wire needs to be the same gauge as the power to prevent ground loops.
7. For the sub's speaker wire I would use at least a 16 AWG wire if not larger for the connection.
Don't forgot that you will need to provide the amp with a turn on lead. This will be a switched 12-volt lead that turns the amp on and off. You can run it down the left side of the car with the RCA's with out a problem. It is easiest to tap the 12-volt switched at the head unit. don't use the power ant. or the amp will turn off when the CD player is used. To run the power through the firewall you can pull the PCM under the hood and there is a gromet in the firewall that is not being used. Your power wire will go through there. Make sure that you fuse the power wire at least 18" from the battery. This is not to protect the amp, it is to protect the battery from a short on that wire. I would suggest having a professional install the amp since much damage can be done to both the car and the equipment.
2. Does the amp have a built-in Low-pass crossover. If it does then use they wires on the back of the head unit. There is one plug that has three sections. One of the section will have four wires in it. Dk. Blue, Light Blue, and I think Yellow and brown. The yellow brown will be the left rear speaker output and the Blues will be the rear right output to the monsoon amp. It is perferred to tap the audio signal here since the power will be lower and it will be easier to use the PAC adapter to level match the signals to help stop unwanted noise.
3. There is usually room behind and to the right of the stock head unit to lay the PAC unit. It is passive and will not require power but may require ground. (The instructions will detail when to use the ground)
4. Yes it will connect to the amp using RCA connections. Usually 17' wires will reach from the front of the car to the trunk. If you will run them down the drivers side then you will have less chance of picking up inductive noise.
5. The stock altenator should have enough current to handle one amp. You will need to connect it to the battery. If you will use a GM battery tap then connecting the wire will be easier and more reliable. If this is the only amp that you will be connecting then I would use at least an 8AWG. wire for the positive.
6. For the ground you need to ground the amp to the chassis of the car. Make sure you remove all of the paint from the metal were you attach the wire to the chassis. Then coat the area with a dielectric grease to prevent rust and corrosion. The ground wire needs to be the same gauge as the power to prevent ground loops.
7. For the sub's speaker wire I would use at least a 16 AWG wire if not larger for the connection.
Don't forgot that you will need to provide the amp with a turn on lead. This will be a switched 12-volt lead that turns the amp on and off. You can run it down the left side of the car with the RCA's with out a problem. It is easiest to tap the 12-volt switched at the head unit. don't use the power ant. or the amp will turn off when the CD player is used. To run the power through the firewall you can pull the PCM under the hood and there is a gromet in the firewall that is not being used. Your power wire will go through there. Make sure that you fuse the power wire at least 18" from the battery. This is not to protect the amp, it is to protect the battery from a short on that wire. I would suggest having a professional install the amp since much damage can be done to both the car and the equipment.
