View Poll Results: How do you 'detail' your exterior?
I use a machine (PC, UDM, Flex, etc)
11
68.75%
I do it all by hand
5
31.25%
Voters: 16. You may not vote on this poll
detailing w/ buffer/polisher
detailing w/ buffer/polisher I have been doing research on another forum regarding 'pro' detailing. The lines of product I have been looking @ are for use for with detailing machines (pc7424, UDM, flex, G110, etc).
I am looking into picking up a PC7424 kit coupled with OPT (optimum) polishes to remove my swirl marks rather than simply fill them in with over-the-counter stuff.
I am curious how many other F-body guys are use buffer/polishers and what products you couple them with. My concern is that the clear on our cars is pretty tough and i may need to upgrade polishes to get the swirls out.
edit: I also have blackbird stripes along my hood. Are there any problems with running the polisher over them?
I am looking into picking up a PC7424 kit coupled with OPT (optimum) polishes to remove my swirl marks rather than simply fill them in with over-the-counter stuff.
I am curious how many other F-body guys are use buffer/polishers and what products you couple them with. My concern is that the clear on our cars is pretty tough and i may need to upgrade polishes to get the swirls out.
edit: I also have blackbird stripes along my hood. Are there any problems with running the polisher over them?
TECH Addict
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,374
Likes: 0
From: Amarillo, Texas
I have been using a rotary and PC for quite a while now. If I were in your shoes, I would give serious consideration to a Flex orbital. It's going to accomplish more than the standard PC.
As far as polishes, etc., my personal preferences are the Menzerna polishes and Lake Country pads. Super Intensive Polish and PO106FF would cover a fairly broad range of situations you might encounter and will leave an outstanding finish.
As far as polishes, etc., my personal preferences are the Menzerna polishes and Lake Country pads. Super Intensive Polish and PO106FF would cover a fairly broad range of situations you might encounter and will leave an outstanding finish.
I have been using a rotary and PC for quite a while now. If I were in your shoes, I would give serious consideration to a Flex orbital. It's going to accomplish more than the standard PC.
As far as polishes, etc., my personal preferences are the Menzerna polishes and Lake Country pads. Super Intensive Polish and PO106FF would cover a fairly broad range of situations you might encounter and will leave an outstanding finish.
As far as polishes, etc., my personal preferences are the Menzerna polishes and Lake Country pads. Super Intensive Polish and PO106FF would cover a fairly broad range of situations you might encounter and will leave an outstanding finish.
The cars i would be using this stuff for are 3 fbodys (red, nbm, pewter) 2 dakotas (white) 1 durango (silver) 1 explorer (gray) and possibly 1 accord (brown/goldish).
Honestly I wouldn't go bigger than 5 in pads personally, maybe 5.5 in. The 6" pads just seem too big. The smaller pads allow you to apply more pressure and therefore give you a little more cut. Four and five inch pads are the way to go , I would hate to do an entire car with just 4" pads that's why I say get both, but its up to you, many people use the 6" pads all the time.
As for the optimum polishes though I've never used them myself from what I understand they have a very long working time and are better suited for a rotary. You can use them with a PC it takes a long time to properly break down the polish which means you'll be polishing for quite a while.
I've only used Menzerna's Intensive Polish and Final Polish II and got great results with a PC. I've also read a lot that Super Intensive Polish and 106FF can be quite finicky with high temps and humidity, might want to keep that in mind.
As for the optimum polishes though I've never used them myself from what I understand they have a very long working time and are better suited for a rotary. You can use them with a PC it takes a long time to properly break down the polish which means you'll be polishing for quite a while.
I've only used Menzerna's Intensive Polish and Final Polish II and got great results with a PC. I've also read a lot that Super Intensive Polish and 106FF can be quite finicky with high temps and humidity, might want to keep that in mind.
Honestly I wouldn't go bigger than 5 in pads personally, maybe 5.5 in. The 6" pads just seem too big. The smaller pads allow you to apply more pressure and therefore give you a little more cut. Four and five inch pads are the way to go , I would hate to do an entire car with just 4" pads that's why I say get both, but its up to you, many people use the 6" pads all the time.
As for the optimum polishes though I've never used them myself from what I understand they have a very long working time and are better suited for a rotary. You can use them with a PC it takes a long time to properly break down the polish which means you'll be polishing for quite a while.
I've only used Menzerna's Intensive Polish and Final Polish II and got great results with a PC. I've also read a lot that Super Intensive Polish and 106FF can be quite finicky with high temps and humidity, might want to keep that in mind.
As for the optimum polishes though I've never used them myself from what I understand they have a very long working time and are better suited for a rotary. You can use them with a PC it takes a long time to properly break down the polish which means you'll be polishing for quite a while.
I've only used Menzerna's Intensive Polish and Final Polish II and got great results with a PC. I've also read a lot that Super Intensive Polish and 106FF can be quite finicky with high temps and humidity, might want to keep that in mind.
My swirls cant be felt at all and can only be seen in full sun. The part that sucks is that the paint was free of swirls when i purchased it and I put them init when I tried to wax it for the first time using meguiars paste wax and a random orbital i picked up from walmart. I can fill the majority of them in with scratch X but i want to take them out completely.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Go with the PC, hands down. The Flex will give you a bit more grunt but I've been using a PC for 5 years and still have a use for it in every detail. You really only need a rotary when dealing with very bad paint or if you're doing a lot of cars. Also, something to keep in mind is that is much easier to finish down on a PC than a rotary. Due to this, even most pro's that use a rotary for the initial cut most often times finish down with a PC for its ease of use.