4l80e man. speedometer tail shaft kit
#1
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has anyone used the man. tailshaft speedometer kit-its pricey, but about the same price as the elect setup if i was running it with a computer
looks like it uses mostly turbo 400 parts, except for the billet tailshaft housing
looks like it uses mostly turbo 400 parts, except for the billet tailshaft housing
#4
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i thought there were a couple diff output shafts, one fully splined, one part way-not sure which came on which truck-if it has an o ring, i think its the short splines-called S & P, they couldnt really tell me, hard to find a pic
Jake, i need to fly you up here for a couple days to build my trans, lol
Jake, i need to fly you up here for a couple days to build my trans, lol
Last edited by forcd ind; 11-29-2008 at 07:10 AM.
#7
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Old thread, but in case anyone is doing research:
I went electric and it blows. The SCU box is noisy and under about 20mph it "pulses" rather than spins slowly so your needle bounces from 0 to 40 to 0 to 30 to 0 to 25 (etc) as you're slowing down.
This could be the fault of the TCU box that is ultimately controlling it, I don't know. But since the costs are close, if I had it to do over again, I'd definitely go mechanical speedo if I could.
And I don't know what this little bouncey guy is but this thread is ancient, so I'm going to let him dance here:
I went electric and it blows. The SCU box is noisy and under about 20mph it "pulses" rather than spins slowly so your needle bounces from 0 to 40 to 0 to 30 to 0 to 25 (etc) as you're slowing down.
This could be the fault of the TCU box that is ultimately controlling it, I don't know. But since the costs are close, if I had it to do over again, I'd definitely go mechanical speedo if I could.
And I don't know what this little bouncey guy is but this thread is ancient, so I'm going to let him dance here:
![Gruffy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_gruffy.gif)
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