the right way to use a stall convertor
my car has always liked to get brake stalled as high as possible without pushing though the front tires...it gets me 1.38s Cam Only
not always true...by flashing the converter it takes longer to get in the upper rpm range so you are making less power off the line...if you are brake stalling it at say 3000 u are closer to the upper rpm range...
my car has always liked to get brake stalled as high as possible without pushing though the front tires...it gets me 1.38s Cam Only
my car has always liked to get brake stalled as high as possible without pushing though the front tires...it gets me 1.38s Cam Only
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,216
Likes: 236
From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
Again, it's whatever works for you. I tend to spin when I stall it up, but dead hook when I flash from idle. As stated above, when you flash it's going to be softer as the stall climbs up the rpm band from a lower starting point. It seems like I get better weight transfer flashing than having the drivetrain pre-loaded.
Again, it's whatever works for you. I tend to spin when I stall it up, but dead hook when I flash from idle. As stated above, when you flash it's going to be softer as the stall climbs up the rpm band from a lower starting point. It seems like I get better weight transfer flashing than having the drivetrain pre-loaded.
not always true...by flashing the converter it takes longer to get in the upper rpm range so you are making less power off the line...if you are brake stalling it at say 3000 u are closer to the upper rpm range...
my car has always liked to get brake stalled as high as possible without pushing though the front tires...it gets me 1.38s Cam Only
my car has always liked to get brake stalled as high as possible without pushing though the front tires...it gets me 1.38s Cam Only
To put it very simply lets say you have a 4000 stall with a 2.6 STR. The only time you will truly take advantage of the full effect of that 2.6 STR is when you flash the converter. Say you stall it up to 3000 before launching that 2.6 STR is becoming more like a 1.6 STR.
Originally Posted by RevGTO
Again, it's whatever works for you.
I agree with Circle-D. I tried all different methods with my Yank ST3500 until I finally found the right combination of tire pressure and launch technique. I'll bring it up to about 1500 rpm on the foot brake and then on the last yellow I'll hammer down. Good for a low 1.6 60ft nearly every time.
My best run was on that technique, Yank ST3500 also w/ MT ET streets and 3.42 rear.
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Its not about how fast the RPMS get up there. Its about torque multiplication. The higher you stall the converter the less torque multiplication is going to effect it.
To put it very simply lets say you have a 4000 stall with a 2.6 STR. The only time you will truly take advantage of the full effect of that 2.6 STR is when you flash the converter. Say you stall it up to 3000 before launching that 2.6 STR is becoming more like a 1.6 STR.
I agree 100%
To put it very simply lets say you have a 4000 stall with a 2.6 STR. The only time you will truly take advantage of the full effect of that 2.6 STR is when you flash the converter. Say you stall it up to 3000 before launching that 2.6 STR is becoming more like a 1.6 STR.
I agree 100%
i have a 4c converter with stock suspension other than control arms and mt et streets at 11 psi. I hold it at 1500 and flash it and it will break them loose almost every time. When it does hook it hit 1.60s
