TCC pressure modulator help
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From: Cape Girardeau MO
TCC pressure modulator help ive got to change my TCC pressure modulator. im gonna have to take the valve body out but my question is can i do this with the tranny in the car? also are there any links on how the best way of doing it would be.
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You can do it it in the car. As for instructions I do not have access to them at the moment. Below is a link that will give you the proper bolt and check ball locations. Be sure that the three 8 mm bolts get put in the right locations or you will have problems.
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Inst...76001_inst.htm
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Inst...76001_inst.htm
Not sure what you mean by TCC pressure modulator. Are you referring to a solenoid? If so you will not need to remove the valve body in order to do this. Here is a photo of the location of the solenoids. Vince
1= a solenoid or 1-2 solenoid 2= b solenoid or 2-3 solenoid 3= pwm tcc solenoid 4= 3-2 control solenoid 5= epc/pcs solenoid 6=manifold pressure switch
1= a solenoid or 1-2 solenoid 2= b solenoid or 2-3 solenoid 3= pwm tcc solenoid 4= 3-2 control solenoid 5= epc/pcs solenoid 6=manifold pressure switch
If it the solenoid under that one then your replacing the TCC Solenoid , Remove the clip from the "3" solenoid and slide it out then remove the 2 10mm bolts from the tcc solenoid and take it out , Replace then put the "3" solenoid back in and install clip no need to remove valve body
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OK that makes sense. When you replace the lock up solenoid if you are replacing the the harness as well, you will need to remove the 1-2 accumulator housing and the epc solenoid. You will need to do this in order to get the case connector out of the case. If not then simply do as Frank has mentioned above and your done. If you have an inch lb torque wrench, make sure to torque the solenoid bolts to 98inlbs and the same goes for the pan bolts. It would be a good idea to get yourself a fresh pan gasket and also a filter while your in there. Vince
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From: Cape Girardeau MO
ok swapped it out but. now when put i it back together and went to put it in revers its like the brakes are on. does anybody no what it could be. didnt have this problem before. also when put in nuetral will only roll forward when put in drive it will drive. im really stumpd here.
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Verdad Gallardo You didn't remove the valve body right?
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I bet you missed the manual valve when you reinstalled the valve body. Drop the pan and you will have to reconnect it. Either you will have to remove the valve body again or loosen up the nut on the manual shaft to be able to reconnect it the manual valve link. Vince
Ah that will do it, yes is in the wrong place you will start in second and lock down in reverse and manual low 1 , haven't seen that done in a long time so it slipped my mind .
Good you got it fixed and you are very lucky you didn't do alot of damage
Good you got it fixed and you are very lucky you didn't do alot of damage
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Lol, Ive seen that before from a local builder. But he didn't want to drop the pan and fix it the right way, so he just put it in reverse and stood on the gas. I guess the tip of the bolt just broke off, its been like that for about 20k miles and no problems yet.
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From: Cape Girardeau MO
ok yet another problem. now at wide open throttle first shift is fine in any gear but after it shifts the first time and tries to up shift its like i hit a wall. it wants to just sit at 4500 (still increase's speed not like it should though) but its like the stall is locked up. its a 4l60e with a shift kit and a edge 3600 converter with b&m synthetich trick shift. is it possible that the TCC pressure modulator ruined the clutches in the stall. didnt have this problem before the TCC pressure modulator went out.
