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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 06:44 AM
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Default "older" 4l80e's

im building a 2005 4l80e now, man shift-in case i get tired of shifting, i was going to build another for a computer-a buddy has a couple older units, not sure what years, i'll have to look at the tags, but he will sell them for cores to me pretty cheap
i know thru the years they upgraded hard parts, but was wondering if the parts are in good shape, are they ok as is, if you do the valveing upgrades, etc-i would prefer 99 up, but prob harder to fine
i could replace my valve body later on, as an option i guess
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 07:08 AM
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I would suggest getting another valve body for the one you have and set it up with the hd-2 kit. A lot less to do and it just makes sense. Vince
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by forcd ind
im building a 2005 4l80e now, man shift-in case i get tired of shifting, i was going to build another for a computer-a buddy has a couple older units, not sure what years, i'll have to look at the tags, but he will sell them for cores to me pretty cheap
i know thru the years they upgraded hard parts, but was wondering if the parts are in good shape, are they ok as is, if you do the valveing upgrades, etc-i would prefer 99 up, but prob harder to fine
i could replace my valve body later on, as an option i guess
Replacing the valve body is an option. Be sure you use a 97 and up valve body, they are designed for designed center lube. Another options is we offer a full manual shift conversion that does not change the valve body and is easily converted back to a computer shift.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 12:17 PM
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The only problem is the valve body he has already has the HD3 kit installed. Not sure how that would work with your kit. Vince
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Vince @ FLT
The only problem is the valve body he has already has the HD3 kit installed. Not sure how that would work with your kit. Vince
I did not see any one the HD-3 kit beeing installed yet in the original post. If that is the case then he will need to start with a fresh V.B. HD-3 kits over complicate such a simple task.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 12:50 PM
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I could be wrong but I have seen a few posts from the OP here and IIRC he has a manual kit. Vince
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 06:46 AM
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i have already modd'ed the valve body, so i would have to get an 04-up to replace it-i found one for $225 (i paid $150 for the trans, lol)
i have an older hd-2 kit, w/o sep plate, they now offer the plate with the kit
it looks like the pump mods are pretty much the same, a little diff with the hd-3
does your man shift kit work w/o a computer, that is easier to mod than the hd-3(to late now, but maybe latter)
i used the bare case to mock up in the car yesterday, make my new x-member, (69 chevelle) so gonna start assemb. this week
even with some "tweaking" the rear return line is gonna hit the floor, i cut and welded a #6 an to it, but looks like im gonna half to use a #6 90 deg and weld that to it-i'll get a new fitting, tighten it, then mark where it stops, then when i weld the 90 deg on, it will point the correct way
seems like a lot of work, when it was fine with the old school "switch pitch" turbo 400, but gonna love the o/d(if the trans works, lol)
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by forcd ind
i have already modd'ed the valve body, so i would have to get an 04-up to replace it-i found one for $225 (i paid $150 for the trans, lol)
i have an older hd-2 kit, w/o sep plate, they now offer the plate with the kit
it looks like the pump mods are pretty much the same, a little diff with the hd-3
does your man shift kit work w/o a computer, that is easier to mod than the hd-3(to late now, but maybe latter)
i used the bare case to mock up in the car yesterday, make my new x-member, (69 chevelle) so gonna start assemb. this week
even with some "tweaking" the rear return line is gonna hit the floor, i cut and welded a #6 an to it, but looks like im gonna half to use a #6 90 deg and weld that to it-i'll get a new fitting, tighten it, then mark where it stops, then when i weld the 90 deg on, it will point the correct way
seems like a lot of work, when it was fine with the old school "switch pitch" turbo 400, but gonna love the o/d(if the trans works, lol)
It works with out a computer. Be careful when modifying the cooler fitting. You do not want to decrease the flow. Keep the I.D. the same as current productions. Also on the rear fitting it has an extension that is critical to lube. I have seen the rear one replaced with other fittings, and bad things happens to the gearsets.
Attached Thumbnails "older" 4l80e's-fittings.jpg  
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