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4l80e build but no (large 36 element sprag)

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Old 01-17-2009, 03:30 PM
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Default 4l80e build but no (large 36 element sprag)

I got the blue plates, upgrades clutches, billet input shaft, transgo stage 3 shift kit manual valve body, with push button locking converter.

I got the 34 element sprag instead due to it being $700 how crucial is this for a mild 800hp 640tq at the wheels?

I went iwth a pi 5 disk converter hopefully i can lock that baby up on the street and battle in the texas mile runs too.
Old 01-17-2009, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Rolemodel
I got the blue plates, upgrades clutches, billet input shaft, transgo stage 3 shift kit manual valve body, with push button locking converter.

I got the 34 element sprag instead due to it being $700 how crucial is this for a mild 800hp 640tq at the wheels?

I went iwth a pi 5 disk converter hopefully i can lock that baby up on the street and battle in the texas mile runs too.
The 34 element sprag will hold up for a while. Most of it depends on how much abuse you expose it to also what tire are you running. They are your torque limiter so to speak.
Old 01-19-2009, 07:53 AM
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I have had it hold much more HP and live. Do not eliminate the accumulators. Make sure that the inner race on the Direct/Reverse drum is perfectly flat, and has a "mirror" finish. Use 600-1500 sandpaper and smoothen in the direction of rotation only. The outer race should have a rough finish. Use 36-40 grit sandpaper and roughen in the direction of rotation. The TransGo full manual valve body setup is good, make sure you use the vacuum modulator, as this will keep the front pump alive. "Do not" remove the waved steel out of the intermediate clutch pack. This keeps the 34 element sprag alive, and it prevents the intermediate clutch lugs from being torn out of the case on a 2nd gear shift. Make sure you use the yellow or orange spring in the 2nd gear accumulator, which is under the low/reverse band apply piston. This will give you a "cleaner" 1-2 part throttle shift. I would use Borg Warner Hi-Energy 2nd & 3rd gear clutches. But if you already have the Raybestos Blue Plate Specials, for 2nd gear & 3rd gear, they should work out ok. In the forward clutch, Borg Warner stock type clutches will work out fine. Do not remove the inner seal in the Direct/Reverse drum, as this will only exacerbate the centrifuge problem that already exists. The very stiff springs from TransGo will work here very well. Use a Dexron III or VI fluid only. Stay the hell away from type "F" fluids. Dana
PS: There is more you can do here without spending anymore money, to help it live longer. Let me know if I can be of help?



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