I can't move. Heres the problem. I swapped a 5.7L in my 4.3L originally equipped 01 ZR2. I have good reverse, or so it appears, but when i try and move forward. there is nothing. I do not have access to a scanner so i can't say if there are any codes related to this.

I didn't touch the tranny during the swap, just the unbolting. The tranny worked perfectly before the swap.

I had some wiring issues in the past, and while swapping out the motor, i noticed a bundle of wires that were messed up also. I repaired those, but that isn't the problem. I ripped out the wiring to recheck, had haven't found anything else. Currently the wires are all out.

I had to remove a cooler line,top one when looking from the bottom of the truck up. to remove the wires. there was no leaking of fluid at all. not even a drip. Could this be a pump issue, if so, how could this of gotten damaged, and how can i check in short of pulling the tranny to see if that is in fact the problem. If it does turn out to be a pump issue, what is involved with taken it out and replacing it?

Thanks guys, i am seriously at my wits end with this. First it was a rough bad idle, which turned out to be valves adjusted way too tight. then more ticking, valves again. but all the while this issue has been present, and this is the one that worries me. Not only has this affected my mental stability, it is going to affect my wallet, I hate when that one happens.

 

Sounds like you are in limp mode recheck your fuses , and all electrical plugs

 

I had a friend of mine tell me that also, he offered no solutions.


Does the pump have anything to do with this "limp mode"?

 

no your pump is good or you would not have a goos reverse the issue is electrical either theres no power being fed to the trans or the a short or fault causing the PCM to set limp mode. Your going to have to do some electrical trouble shooting and getting it scannedwould be the best frst move

 

Ok, i got it scanned and I get 2 codes P1336 which is a crank relearn typical, and also P0101 which is a mass or volume air flow circuit range performance problem. Perhaps a dirty or bad maf, who knows. but i wouldn't think that it would cause the tranny problem. I've had a bad MAF on the V6, all it did was cause a stumble at takeoff. I could try and put the V6 Maf in and see if that takes care of that code.

I checked the fuses, but i couldn't find one specific to the transmission.

I put it into reverse, and it will move at idle speed when i take my foot off the brake, forward, does the same thing as previous. Moves, but feels like i'm towing a bridge.


HELP !!!!!!!

 

Is their a stall in the car? Check your ATF.

 

I used the stock V6 stall as i won't be using this truck for serious offroad. Right now this truck is used for work, mostly highway miles. Besides it's a mild rebuild, doesn't warrant a TC. Stock cam, well stock on the HT383 anyway LOL.
I didn't touch the trannsmission during the install. It was working perfectly prior to the swap. I checked fluid, i also have a new filter that i am waiting on putting in. I don't wanna have to waste 30.00 worth of tranny fluid if it turns out to be the tranny.

Electrically speaking, could this be related to the harness in the pan? How much are those harness'? You have them PB..


How can i test the wires, as we all know just because wires look good, doesn't mean they are. I did look at almost every fuse in the box under the hood. I will see about the ones inside, i overlooked those because, well.... I just didn't look. Didn't think that any one of those fuses would be related to anything mechanical.


Hypothetically speaking, if i find nothing wrong with the wires, what else could it "possibly" be?

Wouldn't it throw a code if it were anything electrical? I'm just glad i didn't see that 1870 code or whatever. That one is bad right?

 

I checked all the fuses inside the cab, and they are all ok.

My next question is, can i unplug the harness at the trans, and then turn the ignition on, and see if any of the wires are getting power?

 

with the switch on check that there is power on the two pink wires goning to the trans

 

I checked those, and they are hot. I also used the ground in the connector to see if it's completing the circuit, and it is.

I'm stumped.....

 

I went ahead and checked for power inside the tranny. Now i'm no tranny guy so you're going to hear a bunch of " thingamajiggers and whatchamacallits" so bear with me.

I took off the pan, and checked for power at the connector inside. Good. I also checked the two thingy's umm i think solenoids, they also have power. Then there is the line pressure thingy, it is also good on the power. I did notice that the first solenoid is way loose, it jiggles a bunch, compared to the other one next to it. That one is solid in it's holder.


I bought a new filter, and noticed that the filter isn't as thick as the original. i have a 2001 ZR2 and in the book there were two different pans a deep pan and standard pan. I assumed that i had a standard pan, so that is the one i bought. The one i bought is thin and the original one is much thicker, probably close to two inches. Did i get the wrong one? I guess i will take a trip out to AZ and compare the two different ones.


So, what else should i be looking at?

 

If you have power at the solenoids then you do not have a blown fuse. The filter is a problems if you have the wrong one. although it will not explain a good reverse and slipping if fwd. Should be the same if not worse in reverse. Get the right pan in there an try it again. It is normal for he one shift soleniod to move in its bore. Just maker sure it is not broken.

 

My bad, i didn't put that filter on. I noticed the difference after i pulled the old filter out.


I went ahead and got the deep filter, which is for a stepped style pan. Got it all back together with the new filter and fluid.

The symptoms were hardly any forward, had to rev the hell out of it just to get it to move. Felt like i was towing a tank.

This time after the oil and filter, i put the trans in R, seemed good like i said, instead of putting it into OD this time, i put it into L1. I gave it gas, and it moved.. WHOA!!! Now i can't tell how much or how well it will go because i was limited to the size of the garage. I tried 2nd, and it seemed to do the same. It seemed to move with throttle, and not alot of it like before. Since i had to replace the intake gaskets, i have the timing off some, so once the truck warmed up, it didn't want to idle, it just stalled when i put it into gear. I will try again tomorrow night after i get the timing good.
I did try OD, and it seemed to act the same way as before, hardly any movement. This would indicate a bad forward sprag right? How would this go out so quickly. I mean it happened almost immediately. It would of had to happen when i was shifting it into gear right after the swap. Just making sure that it would go into gear. routine check after swap.

I think that i forgot to mention that there is no more light to indicate what gear i am in on the dash anymore. That was noticed as soon as i went to shift it the first time after the swap. Had to look down to see what gear i was going into.

If it does happen to be the forward sprag, that will cost me about 80. 00, how much are we talking to R&R it at a shop? Only the sprag, i will bring in just the tranny.

 

What exactly can a TCM scanner tell about a transmission? If there isn't anything as far as codes, wouldn't it be futile to run a TCM scanner?

 

Well it can tell you what gears being commanded, And of course codes and generally let you see whats happening, With the 60e all shift functions are TCM controlled

 

OK, had more time tonight to get out there and look at it some. I opened the garage and backed out. I proceeded to move through the gears. I started with first. Gave it gas into the garage( about 15 ft.) and it spun the tires.(gravel LOL). I checked 2nd same thing. But 3rd and OD did nothing spectacular. Same ol' problems.
There was a P0101 code, so i swapped out the MAF sensor to the original V6 and the code disappeared. VIOLA!!! No other codes present except for P1336, relearn.

I am to assume that it is in deed the forward sprag unit? About how much to get this replaced. I know what you guys are saying, " you might aswell just get it rebuilt." i would agree, if my pocket book would also. I did find a local guy that will rebuild it for 700.00, and provide a warranty. I am not expecting this to be a Hi-Po rebuild, and i really don't need that.



Thoughts?

 

The sprag makes no sense as it worked before the swap, right. You need to determine if it is wiring (likely) or something internal (not as likely as it was working). Most transmission shops have the GM tools or a Shafer Shifter that takes the car computer out of the circuit so you can operate the transmission with the control box. Start there! GM dealers have it for sure if you are in a small town and can't find one. Go and guess and you might as well throw 100 dollar bill in the air.
Best of luck on this issue.
Rick

 

Yes it did run before the swap, perfectly i might add. Also, i didn't do anything to anything during the swap. I fixed a couple burnt through(ground) wires. and that was it. The V6 and V8 wiring is exactly the same, other then the two added wires for the injectors.
I am going to take it down to the shop tomorrow and have them look at it. I was searching the web the other night about this same problem. There was this guy who talked about this same exact thing. I thought i was reading something that i wrote. He was some retired guy who thought he could rebuild on his own. Well he did that, and after it was all said and done, it did the same thing. He wound up taking it to a tranny shop, and the guy said it was "solenoid B". I am assuming that that solenoid is for 2-3 upshifts? Anyway, i will let everyone know what it is/was when i get it back in a day or two.

 

Ok, i guess if i would of done a bit more troubleshooting as far as driving the truck, i might of been able to figure it out. I took the dizzy out and moved it over a tooth, which helped it a bit. I took it around the block( manually shifting) and no sooner did i get to the corner, my ABS and Brake light(idiot lights on dash) come on. GREAT!!! Anyway, i am driving it to the shop, and noticed that i can manually shift it through the gears, although i don't think that i am getting lock-up. And the biggest thing, I HAVE NO SPEEDOMETER!! More troubleshooting would of shown this. But i was siding with caution, so i didn't want to drive it, and make it worse.

 

Yes the speedo is critical and will need to be addressed first. Then see what you have