Hurst Quarter Stick & 4L80 Shift Linkage Problem
Hurst Quarter Stick & 4L80 Shift Linkage Problem I have my 4L80 setting on the bench ready to install and thought i would go a head and setup the shifter and linkage, The linkage that Hurst sent does not work, What did you guys do to fix the alignment problem. What brackets do i need to use or do i need to modify the ones they sent.
My 4l80 is a 04 model, Is there any difference in the rooster cones, It had the long shaft, i got a short shaft out of a 97 mod. But i used the 04 rooster cone. The problem i having is when i setup the shift linkage from the neutral position ,then pull the shifter back to low gear and shift it threw the gears from 1-2-3-D it misses 3 gear or if i set it up from low gear 1-2-3-D-N-R-P it misses (R) reverse. I used the brackets that came with the shifter. Do i need to use the 4l60 brackets. and cable. The Hurst Quarter Sticks cable had a threaded rod adjustment . Do i need a longer adjuster ear. I really need some help here, Ive tried every position with the brackets Hurst sent and The shifter gear selectors will not line up properly with the transmission selector. Ive did ever search i can think of on here and the web and cant find any kind of answer, But Ive read were allot of people uses the Quarter Stick Pistol Grip with there 4L80's with know problem Cant install the tranny till i fix this problem
Come on some body on here has the answer, They alway do
Come on some body on here has the answer, They alway do
So that shifter is designed for a 4 speed automatic right? Theres no pin or bolt to remove to get the 7th position is there?
For the bracket I'd just modify one. Like on a th400 it bolts to the pan bolts, I'm guessing none of those brackets line up?
I would just weld on a piece to extend it to one of the bolts it doesn't reach.
Every shifter I've bought has brackets for ford, GM, chrysler, etc, so there are plenty of parts to work with.
For the bracket I'd just modify one. Like on a th400 it bolts to the pan bolts, I'm guessing none of those brackets line up?
I would just weld on a piece to extend it to one of the bolts it doesn't reach.
Every shifter I've bought has brackets for ford, GM, chrysler, etc, so there are plenty of parts to work with.
The Hurst 316-2030 Quarter Stick is for 7004R & 4L60E 4 speed auto. I have modified the bracket and moved it all over the place, but cant get it to line up for all the gears. Would it maybe be the ear selector bracket to short or to long ?
I bet I will irritate many people on this site, but B&M, Hurst, etc do NOT make shifters that work correctly with 4 speed transmissions.
You have found the same problem that I found with almost every shifter on the market, they say "just remove this little pin or bolt" and you will have a 4th gear position, but if you actually take the time to check every gear position, you will quickly find that it is impossible to get 4th gear and 1st gear on the shifter to match the detents in the transmission. The holes simply will not all line up, because the notches in the shifter are not spaced correctly for a 4L80E.
I just bought a B&M Pro Ratchet 80842... same exact problem. Modifying the length of the arm on the shifter may help some, but doesn't make it line up perfectly with the detent.
I don't have a good solution, I am just complaining.
You have found the same problem that I found with almost every shifter on the market, they say "just remove this little pin or bolt" and you will have a 4th gear position, but if you actually take the time to check every gear position, you will quickly find that it is impossible to get 4th gear and 1st gear on the shifter to match the detents in the transmission. The holes simply will not all line up, because the notches in the shifter are not spaced correctly for a 4L80E.
I just bought a B&M Pro Ratchet 80842... same exact problem. Modifying the length of the arm on the shifter may help some, but doesn't make it line up perfectly with the detent.
I don't have a good solution, I am just complaining.
Followup question for some pro builders... how many of you have seen TH700R4 - 4L80e transmission burnt up because the detents in the shifter caused the spool inside the transmission to hang up between gears?
I know that Art Carr makes a shifter that actually works correctly, but they are so $%# expensive I can't bring myself to buy one, and they are really designed for off road use, not a drag race toy.
I know that Art Carr makes a shifter that actually works correctly, but they are so $%# expensive I can't bring myself to buy one, and they are really designed for off road use, not a drag race toy.
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I have experienced that a few times most shifts you have provisions to get the detent position in the right gate. I have not used hurst in many years so I do not have the answer. I have offroad race trucks running 4l85 full manuals with Art Carr shifters, which are even more sensitive to misalignment, and have no problems. A 300 - 500 dollar shifter is trivial when compared to a $2000 - $8000 transmission.
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The shifter that i have is made pacificly for the 4l60e & 7004r , it is for the 4 speed automatics . There on pin to remove. The part no. (316-2030) It only sends one bracket for the linkage and shift selector. Its not universal for 3 speeds. But Ive read on here were they use them on the 4l80e with no problems except modifying the cable linkage support bracket, by moving it back. Ive tried that and will not line up all gears. I was hopping that some one would chime in that has that shifter and tell me what they used to make it work
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Verdad Gallardo If you adjust the cable end so that the pin slips into place easily in when the transmission & shifter are both in 1st gear, then shift both to 4th gear, the shifter detent no longer matches the detent inside the transmission? This is the same problem I have with my new B&M. Perhaps other people just install it as is, and it happens to be close enough to work? I am sure that by cutting the small bracket that bolts to the shifter rod on the transmission you can improve the situation, but you shouldn't have to do that on a kit that was made to fit a GM 4 speed.
If i install the cable adjuster to the ear in 1st gear then 4th gear the cable is about 3/16 to long or past the hole were the cable adjuster lines up to. Or if i get 1st gear and 4th gear to line up then it misses 3ed gear. & rev. but i have 1st & 2nd.& 4th & neutral & park. This is so hard to explain. Do i need a longer adjuster ear ? Plus the cable they sent me has a lot of slack in it, Witch is causing me some of the problem
i have a B & M pro rat.-i orig used it with my turbo 400, then when i installed the 4l80e, i rem. the rear pin, which allows for 1 more gear-then you use a diff hole in the supplied shift arm-other than that, it gets all the gears-its designed to click twice thru rev, after neut., you click twice for park, and in park, you click twice for rev, even though the first click gets rev, its not in all the way
if your using the correct hole on the shift arm, you may have the cable in wrong on the shifter itself-the bracket that holds the cable to the shifter mech. bolts to the outside of the shifter, not on the inside, or you will never get the correct ratio
i used the 400 bracket on the trans(mounts the cable) has extra holes
the only thing i had to do was grind a little on the rev stop for neut., it just hit and i would have to lift the lockout a tiny bit for neut, but has clear. now
so if a shifter says it fits 700's also, except for the bracket on the trans, it should handle all the gears
so Randy, ck how the cable is attached to the shifter(on the outside), and in the forward, i believe, hole on the shifter lever
if your using the correct hole on the shift arm, you may have the cable in wrong on the shifter itself-the bracket that holds the cable to the shifter mech. bolts to the outside of the shifter, not on the inside, or you will never get the correct ratio
i used the 400 bracket on the trans(mounts the cable) has extra holes
the only thing i had to do was grind a little on the rev stop for neut., it just hit and i would have to lift the lockout a tiny bit for neut, but has clear. now
so if a shifter says it fits 700's also, except for the bracket on the trans, it should handle all the gears
so Randy, ck how the cable is attached to the shifter(on the outside), and in the forward, i believe, hole on the shifter lever
The shift lever on the tranny has only one hole in it, And the shifter has a lug welded and the cable slips over it, with no adjustment, Now on the tranny the shift selector the is one hole for the cable and its a threaded lug that threads on the cable and has a carter key to attach it to the shift linkage ,Heres what i got >>>
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Correct bracket for 4L80E with B&M 80842 I decided to make my own bracket, and I believe I found the problem with the part that B&M includes. I strongly suspect that the same problem exists with the Hurst shifter.
I took an old bracket from a Hurst Pro matic 2 shifter from a TH400, and added on a small tab extension so I could play around with the position of the hole. After a few tries, I found a combination that dropped into every detent on the shifter & the transmission perfectly. I pulled it off the transmission and copied the locations onto paper. The B&M bracket has the center of the hole offset to the right about the same as mine, but the B&M bracket has the "F" hole too close to the shift rod, it is only about 1.93" (1 15/16) center to center, while my bracket has the hole about 2.13" (2 1/8) center to center.
See the attached photo. Anyone else can easily make the same modification.
I took an old bracket from a Hurst Pro matic 2 shifter from a TH400, and added on a small tab extension so I could play around with the position of the hole. After a few tries, I found a combination that dropped into every detent on the shifter & the transmission perfectly. I pulled it off the transmission and copied the locations onto paper. The B&M bracket has the center of the hole offset to the right about the same as mine, but the B&M bracket has the "F" hole too close to the shift rod, it is only about 1.93" (1 15/16) center to center, while my bracket has the hole about 2.13" (2 1/8) center to center.
See the attached photo. Anyone else can easily make the same modification.
on the pic to the right, you should be in the hole to the left-i would like to see where your cable is attached to the shifter-i had the same problem you did, and made up a shifter arm, then learned i had the cable on wrong on the shifter-the little bracket attached to the cable @ the shifter has to be on the outside of the shifter, not inside-ck it out
I decided to make my own bracket, and I believe I found the problem with the part that B&M includes. I strongly suspect that the same problem exists with the Hurst shifter.
I took an old bracket from a Hurst Pro matic 2 shifter from a TH400, and added on a small tab extension so I could play around with the position of the hole. After a few tries, I found a combination that dropped into every detent on the shifter & the transmission perfectly. I pulled it off the transmission and copied the locations onto paper. The B&M bracket has the center of the hole offset to the right about the same as mine, but the B&M bracket has the "F" hole too close to the shift rod, it is only about 1.93" (1 15/16) center to center, while my bracket has the hole about 2.13" (2 1/8) center to center.
See the attached photo. Anyone else can easily make the same modification.
I took an old bracket from a Hurst Pro matic 2 shifter from a TH400, and added on a small tab extension so I could play around with the position of the hole. After a few tries, I found a combination that dropped into every detent on the shifter & the transmission perfectly. I pulled it off the transmission and copied the locations onto paper. The B&M bracket has the center of the hole offset to the right about the same as mine, but the B&M bracket has the "F" hole too close to the shift rod, it is only about 1.93" (1 15/16) center to center, while my bracket has the hole about 2.13" (2 1/8) center to center.
See the attached photo. Anyone else can easily make the same modification.
on the pic to the right, you should be in the hole to the left-i would like to see where your cable is attached to the shifter-i had the same problem you did, and made up a shifter arm, then learned i had the cable on wrong on the shifter-the little bracket attached to the cable @ the shifter has to be on the outside of the shifter, not inside-ck it out
Randy, i think i was getting you and Twinturbo mixed up, i think he had the B & M pro racht., and you had the Hurst, where theres only one way the cable attaches to the shifter, unlike the B & M-kind of the point i was making, if they say its for the 700 or 4l60, they seem to have the same stroke as the 4l80e, since the Pro Rachet doesnt list for a 4l80e, but works
the B & M has 2 diff ways the cable can attach to the shifter, and if not correct, will cause problems-i brought this to B & M's att. a few years ago, they were sup to redo the insts. to make it more clear
the B & M has 2 diff ways the cable can attach to the shifter, and if not correct, will cause problems-i brought this to B & M's att. a few years ago, they were sup to redo the insts. to make it more clear
I got a stock cable and noticed that the Hurst cable has about 5/32" slack in it. The stock cable has none. Is the stock cable long enough to reach it, Can i attach it to the Hurst shifter.The slack in the cable is given me a pain in the ***, If the Hurst cable had no slack in it i beleave it would work.There is to much clearance in the cable sleave & cable. So when you put any kind of ark in the cable it causes slack.
I dicked around with my B&M for a good while trying to adjust it. I ended up making a custom cable bracket (the one that's held on by the trani pan bolts.), but I was able to get it to work nicely without modifying the shift lever.
The shift lever that is pictured with the Hurst won't work IMO. I think it needs to be a backwards L shape, like the one TT496 posted, or it'll hit the pan when you shift to 1st or maybe even 2nd.
I use the lever on the right of TT496's post. The cable went into the far left hole.
The shift lever that is pictured with the Hurst won't work IMO. I think it needs to be a backwards L shape, like the one TT496 posted, or it'll hit the pan when you shift to 1st or maybe even 2nd.
I use the lever on the right of TT496's post. The cable went into the far left hole.