Hurst Quarter Stick & 4L80 Shift Linkage Problem
02-07-2009, 08:17 PM
#22
I decided to make my own bracket, and I believe I found the problem with the part that B&M includes. I strongly suspect that the same problem exists with the Hurst shifter.
I took an old bracket from a Hurst Pro matic 2 shifter from a TH400, and added on a small tab extension so I could play around with the position of the hole. After a few tries, I found a combination that dropped into every detent on the shifter & the transmission perfectly. I pulled it off the transmission and copied the locations onto paper. The B&M bracket has the center of the hole offset to the right about the same as mine, but the B&M bracket has the "F" hole too close to the shift rod, it is only about 1.93" (1 15/16) center to center, while my bracket has the hole about 2.13" (2 1/8) center to center.
See the attached photo. Anyone else can easily make the same modification.
I took an old bracket from a Hurst Pro matic 2 shifter from a TH400, and added on a small tab extension so I could play around with the position of the hole. After a few tries, I found a combination that dropped into every detent on the shifter & the transmission perfectly. I pulled it off the transmission and copied the locations onto paper. The B&M bracket has the center of the hole offset to the right about the same as mine, but the B&M bracket has the "F" hole too close to the shift rod, it is only about 1.93" (1 15/16) center to center, while my bracket has the hole about 2.13" (2 1/8) center to center.
See the attached photo. Anyone else can easily make the same modification.
The bracket that you modified, The custom piece that's bolt to the bracket (Horizontal) whats the center to center on the holes. The vertical bracket ,is it the factory Hurst lever ? Or is it custom also, whats the center to center on it with out the custom horizontal piece attached
Thanks,Randy
02-08-2009, 09:33 AM
#23
The vertical bracket was a regular TH400 piece from a hurst pro matic 2 that was on my TH400 The center to center & offset on the Hurst TH400 is exactly the same as the "C" hole in the B&M bracket that came with my new Pro Ratchet 80842. The center to center of the "C" hole is 1 15/16"
02-08-2009, 09:39 AM
#24
One other note. I took my first test drive yesterday. 4L80E with Transgo-3 behind a blown 496 chevy, 9" ford with 3.50 gears. Works pretty good, shifts are on time and seem firm enough. I did the rebuild & mods myself, so we will see how long it holds together. I welded up my modified bracket, including removing the bolt & plug welded the bolt hole, it works very well. The Pro Ratchet still takes a double push to get fully into park, I don't really like that, but shouldn't be a big deal after a little practice.
02-08-2009, 11:26 AM
#26
[QUOTE=ShevrolayZ28;11007417
The shift lever that is pictured with the Hurst won't work IMO. I think it needs to be a backwards L shape, like the one TT496 posted, or it'll hit the pan when you shift to 1st or maybe even 2nd.
I use the lever on the right of TT496's post. The cable went into the far left hole.[/QUOTE]
I agree with this statement, the bracket needs to be shaped like a backwards L to clear the pan.
I could have just plug welded the "F" hole on the far left, and redrilled it slightly further away from the square hole, the only reason I made it out of 2 pieces with a bolt in the center is so I could play around with the center to center distance. On mine the cable was moving more than the detents in the transmission, I increase the center to center of the bracket a little at a time until it matched well with the detents inside the transmission. It worked out to 2.125", about 3/16" further away than the original hole.
I am not a pro at transmission building, but I bet that getting the spool positioned correctly is critical, so it is worth your time to get this part right.
If you are not sure how to get the bracket right, you might pm "Jakeshoe"
he is very good at explaining this type of thing.
The shift lever that is pictured with the Hurst won't work IMO. I think it needs to be a backwards L shape, like the one TT496 posted, or it'll hit the pan when you shift to 1st or maybe even 2nd.
I use the lever on the right of TT496's post. The cable went into the far left hole.[/QUOTE]
I agree with this statement, the bracket needs to be shaped like a backwards L to clear the pan.
I could have just plug welded the "F" hole on the far left, and redrilled it slightly further away from the square hole, the only reason I made it out of 2 pieces with a bolt in the center is so I could play around with the center to center distance. On mine the cable was moving more than the detents in the transmission, I increase the center to center of the bracket a little at a time until it matched well with the detents inside the transmission. It worked out to 2.125", about 3/16" further away than the original hole.
I am not a pro at transmission building, but I bet that getting the spool positioned correctly is critical, so it is worth your time to get this part right.
If you are not sure how to get the bracket right, you might pm "Jakeshoe"
he is very good at explaining this type of thing.
02-08-2009, 01:49 PM
#28
I decided to make my own bracket, and I believe I found the problem with the part that B&M includes. I strongly suspect that the same problem exists with the Hurst shifter.
I took an old bracket from a Hurst Pro matic 2 shifter from a TH400, and added on a small tab extension so I could play around with the position of the hole. After a few tries, I found a combination that dropped into every detent on the shifter & the transmission perfectly. I pulled it off the transmission and copied the locations onto paper. The B&M bracket has the center of the hole offset to the right about the same as mine, but the B&M bracket has the "F" hole too close to the shift rod, it is only about 1.93" (1 15/16) center to center, while my bracket has the hole about 2.13" (2 1/8) center to center.
See the attached photo. Anyone else can easily make the same modification.
I took an old bracket from a Hurst Pro matic 2 shifter from a TH400, and added on a small tab extension so I could play around with the position of the hole. After a few tries, I found a combination that dropped into every detent on the shifter & the transmission perfectly. I pulled it off the transmission and copied the locations onto paper. The B&M bracket has the center of the hole offset to the right about the same as mine, but the B&M bracket has the "F" hole too close to the shift rod, it is only about 1.93" (1 15/16) center to center, while my bracket has the hole about 2.13" (2 1/8) center to center.
See the attached photo. Anyone else can easily make the same modification.
I used the bracket on the right and used the (F) hole,And every thing worked perfectly, and with out any binding in any gear.
Thanks,guys for all the help. I don't know if i could have figured it out with out your help. I never would have thought to use a B&M selector on a Hurst shifter. But you live and learn
02-09-2009, 07:42 AM
#29
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i have a B & M pro rat.-i orig used it with my turbo 400, then when i installed the 4l80e, i rem. the rear pin, which allows for 1 more gear-then you use a diff hole in the supplied shift arm-other than that, it gets all the gears-its designed to click twice thru rev, after neut., you click twice for park, and in park, you click twice for rev, even though the first click gets rev, its not in all the way
if your using the correct hole on the shift arm, you may have the cable in wrong on the shifter itself-the bracket that holds the cable to the shifter mech. bolts to the outside of the shifter, not on the inside, or you will never get the correct ratio
i used the 400 bracket on the trans(mounts the cable) has extra holes
the only thing i had to do was grind a little on the rev stop for neut., it just hit and i would have to lift the lockout a tiny bit for neut, but has clear. now
so if a shifter says it fits 700's also, except for the bracket on the trans, it should handle all the gears
so Randy, ck how the cable is attached to the shifter(on the outside), and in the forward, i believe, hole on the shifter lever
if your using the correct hole on the shift arm, you may have the cable in wrong on the shifter itself-the bracket that holds the cable to the shifter mech. bolts to the outside of the shifter, not on the inside, or you will never get the correct ratio
i used the 400 bracket on the trans(mounts the cable) has extra holes
the only thing i had to do was grind a little on the rev stop for neut., it just hit and i would have to lift the lockout a tiny bit for neut, but has clear. now
so if a shifter says it fits 700's also, except for the bracket on the trans, it should handle all the gears
so Randy, ck how the cable is attached to the shifter(on the outside), and in the forward, i believe, hole on the shifter lever
10-20-2010, 09:27 AM
#30
b&m kit bm-75498 Im fixing to face the same issue i bought a second hand pro ratchet with no linkage i talked to b&m they said in november 10 they are releaseing this kit to hook up there 4 speed shifters to the 4l80e but i dont know what to believe caus the first guy i talked to told me the pro ratchet only worked on a 60e then i called back and the other guy said this kit was to make them all work on a 80e any how anything is possible with time and patients as proven on this thread so if the kit wont work ill break out th drill welder an grinder lol
10-21-2010, 07:09 AM
#32
Im fixing to face the same issue i bought a second hand pro ratchet with no linkage i talked to b&m they said in november 10 they are releaseing this kit to hook up there 4 speed shifters to the 4l80e but i dont know what to believe caus the first guy i talked to told me the pro ratchet only worked on a 60e then i called back and the other guy said this kit was to make them all work on a 80e any how anything is possible with time and patients as proven on this thread so if the kit wont work ill break out th drill welder an grinder lol
B&M 30499
and this one. If you bend it out a little more to clear the pan it can be made to work
B&M 20462
