TinSecondRice

iTrader: (12)

Sorry this is so long...


A couple months ago I was driving home from school and it seemed like the transmission was started to slip or something. The rpms would climb higher and higher to maintain the same speed until I was at like 5k rpms just to go 60. (Supposed to be at less than 2k rpm at 60). So when it did this I tore the transmission out and sent it off to get it rebuilt. At this time I went ahead and sent off the Yank stall to get it restalled and new internals put in it and sent off the rear end to get rebuilt with some new gears, clutch pack, and hardened output shafts. The transmission guy said he didn't see anything big wrong, just some burn marks on some of the bands and a few burnt clutches. He said it was enough for it to slip on shifts but thats about it. The guy at Yank said the same thing on the stall, said the clutch in it was a little worn, but had a good 50k miles left on it. I told Yank to go ahead and replace it just in case. The rear end also checked out fine, but still had new guts put in it. Fast forward to a few weeks ago when I finally got the car together. I would drive the car for a few minutes and all the sudden the converter would come unlocked when the trans temp would hit 165-175. I called Cartek that built the rear end to see if they were supposed to have reprogrammed the computer for the gears and if it could cause this. They said yes so I sent it the computer to them and they fixed it. Got the computer back and it ran great for about 200 miles.

Fast forward to a couple days ago. I was backing out of a parking spot with the wheel turned to the right and it felt like the e-brake locked up. I was giving it gas and it just came to a stop. It stalled itself out and I cranked it back up and it was fine. I went to my car lot and was able to duplicate the problem after lots of trying and it did the same thing and was fine after it was cranked back up after stalling. The car is getting worse now it seems. It seems like I am having to give it more and more gas to get it to go anywhere forward. It feels almost like the brakes are pulled just slightly when trying to accelerate, but when you just let off the gas to coast you can tell its not the brakes.

Again earlier tonight I was backing out of a downhill driveway and it did the same thing in reverse. It felt like the brakes were on. I put the shifter in neutral and it rolled right down the hill and didn't feel like any braking resistance.

Anybody have any ideas?

Car:
2005 Corvette a4 w/4l65

402 Stroker with 10.6:1 compression (diamond pistons, eagle crank w/arp mains, eagle rods w/arp 2000 bolts)

Precision race components stage 3 ls6 heads w/harland sharp rockers

244/248, .612/.615, 114 LSA camshaft

FAST 92mm intake (ls2 portworks ported)

LS2 portworks ported TB

100mm POWRMAF

Vararam intake

42 lb ford injectors

180 thermostat

dynatech headers w/borla exhaust

Yank 3600 stall converter

Century Transmission stage V A4 transmission

Cartek rear w/3.73 gears w/hardened output shafts

FLT

iTrader: (1)

You should contact your trans guy to let him know what is going on. Almost sounds like a clutch issue or the low roller might be damaged and is binding in reverse. Just a thought. Vince

TinSecondRice

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the advise. Hopefully I will get a chance to call them in the next couple of days.

Now it seems to have developed a whining noise in 3rd and 4th gear, seems like it is only once the converter locks in either gear...

FLT

iTrader: (1)

A damaged low roller will make a noise like that in 3rd and 4th. Reason being the rollers in a sense act as a bearing when the one way clutch is not applied. I have heard this noise when the roller race has the slightest marks in it on a dyno. If a race does not look perfect I always throw them away. Now when you are driving this car do you have any issues with wheel hop or traction issues? Both of which on dry pavement can cause an issue like the one you have. Also if you are doing your burnout in manual low and then are hitting dry pavement in first, this can damage the low roller race. I always suggest doing your burn out and coming out of the water box in third and let off. This way the transmissions internals are turning one to one and are in there strongest state. Good luck and let us know what you find out. Vince

TinSecondRice

iTrader: (12)

Thanks a lot for your help Vince. I called Mike at Century today and he said to send it back so he could get it checked out. He said it sounded like a sprag or something, but he said that the whine noise sounded like it was something else since it whines in 3rd?

It did the "binding" thing in reverse today again, so I got out of the car with it still in reverse and tried to push it. When I tried to push it front or back it would push a tad and catch EXACTLY like a car in park. Once again I could put it in neutral and back in reverse and it would be fine.

TinSecondRice

iTrader: (12)

Well- I sent off the transmission, rear end, and converter. Yank said the converter looks fine. Century said the transmission everything looked perfect and that it all looked like brand new inside. The rear end ended up having the gears ate up, supposedly from a bad set of gears. They put all new parts in the rear end. I put everything in, drove it about 100 miles or less, and went to put it in reverse today and it did the same thing.

I was backing up at my shop and it felt like I pressed the brakes down, but I didn't. I pressed the gas harder and it would move, but it was like you were trying to stall it up and it would barely move. Put the shifter into neutral then back to reverse and it works fine...

TinSecondRice

iTrader: (12)

Any ideas guys? This is getting really aggravating. I hate to have to pull it all out again and pay hundred of dollars for shipping.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Like was mentioned before could be the low roller binding maybe. But they should have caught that. There could also be a leak in the pump face bringing on the forward clutch or overun clutch maybe when in reverse.
If I were you and i did decide i needed to pull it out i would and if its was our unit would suggest this get it to bind then make it go for a bit that way. That way if its a clutch set your builder will at least be able to see the burn on it to help determine the cause. A dyno would be helpfull also/

TinSecondRice

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the input. I have only put 100 miles or so on it since Mike at Century checked it out. He said that everything looked like brand new in it and he didn't see anything wrong, but I asked about dyno testing it and he said he couldn't...it ended up costing me $300 ($100 shipping each way, then charged $100 for tearing it down since he said nothing was wrong). Looks like I might be sending it back again. It's tempting to send it somewhere else, but with it being under warranty I can't justify the cost. That is the only reason I sent it to him in the first place, he had built the trans for the previous owner and said he would go back through it for cheap.