Would you consider this a loose converter?
Would you consider this a loose converter? It's a non sponsor brand converter.
It's a 3600 stall speed 10" converter.
It's in a 2002 Z28 thats about 200 pounds lighter than stock, has a lid, full exhaust, 3.23's, stock size rear tires, built 4L60E.
It ran 12.6 at 110 with a STOCK CONVERTER a week before I put this in.
With this new converter I can start from a dead stop at hold 25% throttle (with HP Tuners) and it will sit at 3000 rpm on flat ground, no wind.
It's been tuned so it's getting close to the top of each gear, it's not short shifting and relying on converter slip to keep the rpm up, and it's also not winding out in each gear, or slipping.
Looking at old scans it seems to only be 1000 to 1200 rpm higher than stock at the same tps% and the same MPH during acceleration.
Does it sound like a loose converter, or is it just me? Please be honest, if I'm being an idiot then say so.
Does it sound like an ideal choice for a 95% street driven converter?
This isn't the first converter I've owned, it just seems more loose. Or does it take a long time to get used to?
It's a 3600 stall speed 10" converter.
It's in a 2002 Z28 thats about 200 pounds lighter than stock, has a lid, full exhaust, 3.23's, stock size rear tires, built 4L60E.
It ran 12.6 at 110 with a STOCK CONVERTER a week before I put this in.
With this new converter I can start from a dead stop at hold 25% throttle (with HP Tuners) and it will sit at 3000 rpm on flat ground, no wind.
It's been tuned so it's getting close to the top of each gear, it's not short shifting and relying on converter slip to keep the rpm up, and it's also not winding out in each gear, or slipping.
Looking at old scans it seems to only be 1000 to 1200 rpm higher than stock at the same tps% and the same MPH during acceleration.
Does it sound like a loose converter, or is it just me? Please be honest, if I'm being an idiot then say so.
Does it sound like an ideal choice for a 95% street driven converter?
This isn't the first converter I've owned, it just seems more loose. Or does it take a long time to get used to?
high stalls are individual...i might think it is great you think it's loose? If you feel like it's to loose for your liking, it is! You need to get a stall that is to your driving. I have a friend with a 3600 vig and it wouldn't be for me, i don't drag mine, and it's a garage queen...so i went with a 3000 stall. I haven't put it in yet, but once i have it tuned to as good as it gets i'll make my decission if it's for me? But from your description, thats about what i would expect from a 3600 stall. It's all about you
What are you expecting it to do? You went from ~ 1800 stall to 3600. That's a lot of extra slip. The whole point of the converter is to slip you to a higher rpm range.
You have logs, but not the one that measures what you bought. Take the car to the track. Log rpm and mph (and not much else so that you get the maximum data/sec) and take off in second gear as hard as you can w/o any wheelspin. It should blip up to as much as 4k and settle down to around 3600 for a second or two and then begin the climb to redline.
If it is too loose for you, see if you can restalled to a 3200.
You have logs, but not the one that measures what you bought. Take the car to the track. Log rpm and mph (and not much else so that you get the maximum data/sec) and take off in second gear as hard as you can w/o any wheelspin. It should blip up to as much as 4k and settle down to around 3600 for a second or two and then begin the climb to redline.
If it is too loose for you, see if you can restalled to a 3200.
But you know you can search the site and get so many conflicting experiences. I just read a thread on here, https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ank-ss-pt.html
The guy is contemplating one yank converter over another yank converter, and there are people saying that a SS3600 is tighter than a PT3600, this is my point. Yes going from 1800 rpm to 3600 rpm is going to be a noticeable change but apparently you can get a tighter feeling 3600. I'm trying to figure out where my converter falls as far as loose or tight.
LOL what? how do you know what I have logs of?
I have old scans and I have new scans. I've compared old scans with the stock converter to new scans with the new converter.
There is no way it should be over 3k rpm with that little throttle imo. Sounds loose to me.
My Circle D converter doesn't even get that higher when going up hill. When accelerating on a uphill on ramp to the freeway it gets up to 2500 rpm at that throttle %. The stall speed on mine is ~3800.
My Circle D converter doesn't even get that higher when going up hill. When accelerating on a uphill on ramp to the freeway it gets up to 2500 rpm at that throttle %. The stall speed on mine is ~3800.
There is no way it should be over 3k rpm with that little throttle imo. Sounds loose to me.
My Circle D converter doesn't even get that higher when going up hill. When accelerating on a uphill on ramp to the freeway it gets up to 2500 rpm at that throttle %. The stall speed on mine is ~3800.
My Circle D converter doesn't even get that higher when going up hill. When accelerating on a uphill on ramp to the freeway it gets up to 2500 rpm at that throttle %. The stall speed on mine is ~3800.
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There is no way it should be over 3k rpm with that little throttle imo. Sounds loose to me.
My Circle D converter doesn't even get that higher when going up hill. When accelerating on a uphill on ramp to the freeway it gets up to 2500 rpm at that throttle %. The stall speed on mine is ~3800.
My Circle D converter doesn't even get that higher when going up hill. When accelerating on a uphill on ramp to the freeway it gets up to 2500 rpm at that throttle %. The stall speed on mine is ~3800.
my 4000 stall will footbraje to 3600 and is a lil higher going up steep hills,but it pulls like a ****** off the line....
its all in how the converter is setup....
Well it's kind of obvious that a higher stall speed will equal more slip.
But you know you can search the site and get so many conflicting experiences. I just read a thread on here, https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ank-ss-pt.html
The guy is contemplating one yank converter over another yank converter, and there are people saying that a SS3600 is tighter than a PT3600, this is my point. Yes going from 1800 rpm to 3600 rpm is going to be a noticeable change but apparently you can get a tighter feeling 3600. I'm trying to figure out where my converter falls as far as loose or tight.
But you know you can search the site and get so many conflicting experiences. I just read a thread on here, https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ank-ss-pt.html
The guy is contemplating one yank converter over another yank converter, and there are people saying that a SS3600 is tighter than a PT3600, this is my point. Yes going from 1800 rpm to 3600 rpm is going to be a noticeable change but apparently you can get a tighter feeling 3600. I'm trying to figure out where my converter falls as far as loose or tight.
1) take up some of the looseness by raising part throttle shift points (if you haven't done this already)
2) get 3.73s
3) Pull it and get restalled
4) Pull it and buy another converter.
LOL what? how do you know what I have logs of?
I have old scans and I have new scans. I've compared old scans with the stock converter to new scans with the new converter.
I have old scans and I have new scans. I've compared old scans with the stock converter to new scans with the new converter.
A saved scan = log for this conversation.
