I just put a performa lvl 2 trans, yank pt4000 stall, and tci flexplate in my car. On startup there is this rapid ticking noise coming from the bellhousing. The noise changes speed with rpm. The car goes into all gears, and seems to work fine from the trans side. I even drove it up on a trailor. But the car seems to almost stall out sometimes like the lockup clutch is going on. I did notice when I installed the converter that it seemed to have a tight spot when I turned it. It would go all the way around but it would be stiffer at the same place on every rotation. Did I get a bad converter? Im pretty sure it went all the way on because my measurements were correct and i even needed to do a 1/16th shim. Plus I have line pressure.

I do have efi-live but I havnt even opened it yet. This is driving me nuts, I dont want to think about pulling it again up on jackstands. Im missing opening track day as Im typing this....and im not very happy about it

*oh and I have the abs inop light on after doing the install now ? ...

 

If going from a stock stall to a small diameter 4000 stall that would explain the car wanting to stall. Some tuning is needed there. As for the ticking I would loosen and re tighten the converter bolts and see what that does.
The get out the EFILIVE some tuning would be a definate must with a stall that high before going to the track for sure.

 

It's common for the abs light to come on if you have the rear wheels rotating without the fronts rotating. Have you driven the car? The light has always reset for me.

 

The converter could not be balanced and finished if it had a tight spot in it as the internal parts are held in place and shell is turned.
If a slight tight spot was felt the machine would shut off.

 

I'd look towards either loose converter bolts, loose flywheel bolts (make sure the flywheel bolts arent bottomed out from being to long) or even a bad flywheel, def need to tune after a converter install!

 

i agree, mine did that during the dyno run. afterwards it cleared itself rather quickly.

 

thats cool on the abs light.

i did get the arp flexplate bolts. I didnt think they looked long.

I knew it needed a tune, i just didnt think the stalling would be normal. Ill be checking the tc bolts shortly. Maybe its something with those bolts, I did have to get different bolts to fit the yank converter and tci flexplate. m10 x 1.5 x 20mm is the size I think they were. metric 10.9 bolts. the threads on the yank are pretty short, I didnt think I ran out of thread, maybe its just that close.

 

Yes when using the TCI flexplate you will need the longer bolts.

 

night not be the same for the ls1, but on our flexplates if they're installed backwards there is a spot on them that doesnt clear and with hit a spot every rev. makeing a ticking noise.

 

If you're running a tci flexplate and a yank converter you need longer bolts for sure cause I just did it.

I used ARP bolts from my 6speed flywheel in my TCI flexplate and it looks like it bolted up fine?

Even the space between the flexplate and the converter with it all the way against the trans is almost exactly 3/16's.

 

yes, i did use longer bolts.

 

Update, so i took the starter out. And it appears the torque converter bolts are hitting the block or something. All 3 are scorched and chewed up a bit on the same places. The super flash on the camera kind of takes away all of the black and brown burn marks.

These were m10x1.5x20mm 10.9 grade metric bolts. Im guessing I need to find something with a smaller head? Im not too knowledgable on bolts. Somebody help me find something that will work!

I guess they dont hit until the flexplate "flexes" because I dont have any contact rotating the crank. Im not too sure, but the evidence is there.

 

Yes the heads are to tall , Maybe why GM used a shallow head and a torx bit rather than hex.
And yes the flex plate does indeed fex forward when the cars running more so as rpm increases. Not sure on where to get them though, I thought yank furnished converter bolts with there converter, I could be wrong though. The thicker flex plate could compound the issue more also.

 

they do. but the ones they sent are way too short to clear the tci flexplate, its alot thicker.

it might not be that they are too tall, but too wide? they are hitting on the inside.

 

Hmm not sure what to tell you there, I have not done that combo , I suppose you could shave the heads down some.

 

the only other thing, could the flexplate be on backwards? my buddy put it on when i was seating the torque converter. If thats the case I may kill him. But I think it looks right i guess, it doesnt say engine side anywhere in the picture.

 

The plate looks right, just imagine if the bolt hole indents were facing the engine, it would be way worse.

FWIW I have the same looking bolts supplied by a TC company with a stock flex plate and it works for me.

The ARP LS1 bolts look like they would work for you. Just be sure they're the right length, stock would be too long for my converter, I'd cut the ARP's if needed.

Another FWIW I found three shallow head grade 10.9 metric bolts in my misc bolt box, have no idea what they came out of but they would work too. Guess my point on that is search your spare parts if you keep any, you might find something.

 

Are you using ARP converter bolts?

 

no, from what i hear the arp converter bolts are too short as well. those are just some ace hardware bolts.

 

Not to offend anyone but my supplied converter bolts can be found at ace hardware too. If you look at yours and mine they have the same brand marking on the head.
They're still thinner than stock.